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Last post on Mar 14, 2013 at 8:33 AM
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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum.
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Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Fuel System, Sedan
Jun 02, 2011 (4:27 am)
Hi, guys! I used to have a similar problem with my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan, though live in Novosibirsk city. After being stranded several times, I also thought it was a pump: during the tests with pressure gauge, sometimes the pressure dropped to 28-29, and also PCM returned a code 41 "system lean" on daily basis after some 10 minutes of driving) so I have ordered a new pump from Walbro Inc. When it has finally arrived from U.S, I have replaced original Motorcraft's one -- only to find out the problem is still there.. luckily, it got reproduced in the garage, after several cranks and running idle.
When engine started to about to stall, we quickly started probing all the wires under the hood and near tank to see if any wire makes the difference. Imagine, it was as simple as the plug to the ingition distributor: when pressed, the engine recovered quickly. Looks like one of the plug's pins got oxidized/covered with some corrosion over time, so the solution was basically to switch off the ignition, have the plug out and then back in.
I think I should have done it earlier because I have seen the codes in memory: 14 (PIP circuit failure) and 18 (SPOUT circuit open or IDM circuit failure). I do advise to replug the connectors under the hood (incl. the PCM one) if you have your engine to randomly stall still.
The other problem to find out was that the newly installed pump is probably also flawed:
after returning home happily from the friend's garage 15 miles away, on the very next day, I heard no humming buzz from the pump on the key switch. The wires near the Ford's fuel shut-off switch (in the trunk) were warm. I measured resistance on the switch plug pins and it showed about 1.5 Ohm -- exactly the same value as the installed Walbro's pump had on itself.. So I knocked the fuel tank with a wooden hammer several times, and tried the key again -- barely heard humming suddenly buzzed back? I knocked it again and tried cranking the engine -- it almost did it, but still no go.. If that was a fuse, it wouldn't behave this way i think. But I was told Walbro's pumps are very good? Anyway, it's a public parking near the 9-storeyed block, so I guess they'll have to see my shoe sole more often this week
#116 of 165 Re: fuel pressure [oldfordmech]
by ladyautomech
Jun 04, 2011 (12:02 pm)
she is all fixed and running like a champ, the problem was a loose wire harness connector located underneath the distributor, the ignition module. After locating the bad connection and correcting it's problem, everything seems to be going great, another important reminder is resetting all the trouble codes, I got lucky to have a friend that happened to have the code reader and he took care of everything for me, what we couldn't find in a month he found in 2 days. The only thing is my fuel gauge still does not work. Any suggestions what might be causing that, i almost do not want to bother with that because of how great she has been running, we don't even think it was the fuel pump at all, because my old one was running strong.
Well if anything else comes up I will be sure to let you know. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, but having my car again I had a lot of things to catch up on and take care of.....
Best Wishes and If any one needs to know anything let me know and I will do my best to help out any way i can...
Jun 04, 2011 (7:27 pm)
Glad you got it fixed. INFO ONLY- you can clear all set codes by disconnecting your pos. batt cable for 30-60 sec then reattach,and walla, light is off.
On your gas gage, if you can find the hot feed back to your fuel pump,Not the feed for the pump, but the 1 for your gage, ( it will be smaller gage wire than the pump takes) When you find this wire, have a helper turn key on and watch gage while you connect that feed wire to ground for just a sec. if your gage goes to full than your gage and wiring to it are in Good Cond and problem is most likely in your tank unit.
Keep in touch
Cliff
#118 of 165 1996 ford taurus GL fuel pump proplems? please help!
by 96taurusglhelp
Aug 01, 2011 (8:08 am)
I have a 1996 ford taurus GL 3.0 v6 fuel injected It had stopprd running awhile back we had someone drop the tank and put on a new fuel pump when key on I get 12 volts to the safty shut off switch but drops down to zero volts when the clip is in the safty switch when i pull it out and turn the key off then on the meter jumps to 12 volts then backs down to 7 volts its only when i put the clip in that sends power to the fuel pump is when i get 12 volts when key turns on then drops down to zero. The car cranks over but will not start It was starting but now not starting at all I also dont hear the fuel pump kick on. I wonder is there some kind of short in the pump or wires or am i not getting a good ground can anyone help me? thx
Aug 01, 2011 (12:38 pm)
Check for corroded wiring connector located around the bottom of the dist. Also check the fuel pump relay located in outside fuse box.Find it and swap it with another 1 of the same value.
#120 of 165 Re: 1996 ford taurus GL fuel pump proplems? please help! [96taurusglhelp]
by swampsoup
Sep 01, 2011 (6:28 am)
Sounds like the power wire going to the pump from the inertia safety shutoff switch is grounded between it and the pump. I had a similar problem with my 94 taurus. With the key off; take a multimeter and read the wire going from the switch to the pump to ground. You should see about 27 ohms which would be reading a healthy coil of your fuel pump. My guess is you will read much less as your voltage is going to ground. I found that the wiring bundle going to the fuel pump was smashed flat between the fuel tank and the underbelly of the car. I had to replace about 8 inches of wire and it cleared it up. Unfortunately, you have to drop the tank to get to it. Its just a bad design.
#121 of 165 What could it be? Taurus 1996
by ladyscorned
Sep 23, 2011 (7:41 am)
The other day when I gave my 96 Taurus the gas it was like it was in park. The engine revs fine but it didn't move. To get it to move I had to put it in park, shut the car off and start it again. I was curious what this is because I know I need about $1,200 worth of underneathe work. I really don't want to make payments on a newer car if I don't have to. I know this drives pretty well on the snow and even when we get a little ice because it's a top heavy car. All the others in my price range are way less safe than this one. So please if anyone knows what this is please let me know so I can decide if having it fixed is the best option.
~B
Sep 23, 2011 (10:00 am)
so sick of this fuel pump fails again. I heard from a friend that ford made bad fuel pumps for the taurus'. But I've replaced my 4 times already. So done with this. It's too hot outside to have my car not start especially with two toddlers.
Any after market or suggestions for a different fuel pump?
#123 of 165 Re: 2001 taurus [ruthieann1]
by csoria
Sep 24, 2011 (8:10 am)
Four times is rediculous there has to be a logical reason why this is happing. Either there is a electrical short in wiring damaging fuel pump motor or in my case after the new motor was installed they pinched the wiring damaging the replacement fuel pump motor. The car was driving for a long time ok till the pump went out again. One other thing i would change is the fuel relay note: the relay is actually several relays intergrated into one module mine was located on top to one side of the radiator. One other thing the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank needs the gas to Cool the electrical pump to prevent overheating the fuel pump motor so keep at least 1/8 to 1/4 full at all times.
#124 of 165 Re: 2001 taurus [ruthieann1]
by oldfordmech
Sep 25, 2011 (7:35 am)
Wiring over tank could be pinched OR look for wiring connection around your distributor or running under dist for any signs of green corrosion.
Problems have been found there also.
Cliff