Last post on Mar 14, 2013 at 8:33 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
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Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Fuel System, Sedan
#104 of 165 Re: Fuel Pump [oldfordmech]
May 15, 2011 (9:31 pm)
I replaced my fuel pump did everything I was asked to do and I did not even get 5 miles and the dam thing did it again, only this time 4 to 7 hours later after being stranded it started I got it to Auto Zone where I bought the Fuel Pump asked to Borrow their Pressure Gage only to be told it would cost be $160.00 and when i bring them back the Pressure gage I would get the $160.00 back, now mind you my car was just outside their front door, but no they would not even let me borrow it they would not even come out their with me, I was told they do not do that kind of services along with the check engine light service.
Any ways do you think this could be a faulty Fuel Pump, my other one I had no problem hearing it this one i have to strain to hear it, and it did not correct my fuel gage problem, I have a full tank and it just started reading 1/2 a tank, it just verys some times it reads a quarter of a tank.
So far this project has cost me a total of $500.00 parts and labor and I am at my witts end a couple guys that work with me at the Auto Auction we are going to start from the rear and work our way to the front cleaning and inspecting every inch of this vehicle to figure out what the hell could be causing this. It is rediculous that Ford has not come up with a solution to this matter, Seeing that it is a on going problem with this make and model, you would think they would do everything in their power to fix or at least pin point why we are all having the same problem, with the way the economy is today we do not and can not afford being with out our vehicle let alone paying cost after cost to keep doing the same job over and over due to faulty parts and not knowing why this keeps happening to this vehicle. If you come up with any other ideas what may be causeing this problem, please I am all ears.
If we run into anything I will keep you all posted, we are going to clean, test, make notes of everything that is being done to my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan....
Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
Thank You... S
#105 of 165 Re: Fuel Pump [ladyautomech]
May 16, 2011 (7:37 am)
As far as your fuel level reading is concerned ............ the gauges in the car are electronic too. That being said they operate within a certain ohm range..... meaning resistance is what the gauge reads. Now there is a rheostat (otherwise known as a potentiometer) that is built into the fuel pump assembly .............. that works basically the same way the thermostat on the wall in your house works by varying the voltage that gets to the gauge. However there are instances where the gauge itself can be bad because the electronics in the gauge do not properly read the voltage coming from the fuel pump. I myself have only seen this a handful of times (maybe 3). So that all said you could possibly have 2 separate problems going on here. Like I said in a previous e-mail you need to make sure that the pressure relief part of the system is functioning properly. You may have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail under the hood. There should be a vacuum hose attached to it........... if the car will start....... remove the hose and see if any fuel comes out. If it does replace the regulator the diaphragm inside is bad!! If it doesn't have the external pressure regulator I would almost have to say the pump is defective if the fuel pressure doesn't fall within specs. IMPORTANT........... make ABSOLUTELY sure that all the connections are good ESPECIALLY the ground!!!!!!!!!! In one instance I had to run a dedicated (separate) ground to the pump along with the one built into the harness........... I dont know why this made a difference......... I can't explain it........... but it did. The only thing that makes any sense is there was to much resistance in the harness ground. Anyway I hope this helps??? Best of luck to you!!
May 16, 2011 (2:15 pm)
1. Other cause of fuel pressure loss could be a leaking fuel injector, With everything turned off, radio, heater,door closed, seat belt latched.
Turn ign key from off to the run pos. listen for a humming noise that lasts 1-2 sec. then stops..
Does the car run at all ?
#107 of 165 Re: fuel pressure [oldfordmech]
May 17, 2011 (4:30 pm)
yes the car does run, only now after i run it for about 4 miles or let it idlel about 20 minutes then it shuts down and I am unable to start it again for about 2 to 3 hours. when it shuts down and i try to restart it, it souds like its not getting any gas, or theres no spark. does that make sence?
open for anything , thank you guys again...
#108 of 165 Re: fuel pressure [ladyautomech]
May 17, 2011 (9:30 pm)
This might sound really dumb but here goes. Is there a hose that is dedicated to venting the tank? If not does the car have a vented gas cap? This could be a simple case of just being vapor locked. In other words if the inside of the tank cant draw air from outside then it could be what they call vapor locking. Try running the fuel cap loose and see if the same problem persists and let me know.
May 19, 2011 (1:57 pm)
If you have a FORD fuel cap it is vented to let air into the tank, DO NOT leave your cap loose.
any excess pressure in the tank is stored in the fuel vapor canister. If you leave your cap loose, it could trigger your check engine light to come on.
After it dies
Remove the tire valve looking cap on the fuel rail and see if you get a shot of fuel or not. Press on the valve stem. DO NOT have your face over this valve when you press it.
Let me know
#110 of 165 Re: fuel pressure [oldfordmech]
May 19, 2011 (4:02 pm)
Just so ya know Cliff........................ been doing this about 20 years......... and it will not set an immediate code if she loosens the fuel cap for a couple of minutes. It has to have a couple of drive cycles on it before it will set that code. That code is for the evaporative emissions system and WILL NOT set immediately!! I thought this would be a good way for her to determine if its vapor locking once it dies. Ya know........... the car dies ........... loosen the cap.......... see if it starts and runs with full pressure!!! quick easy way to see if its vapor locked. Oh yeah .............. and in the future............ don't come back and make me look like I'm a complete fool................it REALLY pisses me off!!!!!!!!!!!!! Been doing this a helluva long time PROFESSIONALLY I might add............ with great success.......... I pretty sure I know what works and what doesn't!!!! Have a nice day!!
#111 of 165 Re: fuel pressure [oldfordmech]
May 20, 2011 (10:49 am)
Well i did all the test with the fuel pressure regulator, checked the injectors and the fuel pressure, everything seems to be working as it should, the only thing that i have not checked is the ground running from the tank, I am getting ready to crawl underneath there and start from the Tank to the front of the car to see what i find, I do how ever need to check the throttle positioning sensor and degrease the rest of the car and around all the connectors because it is nasty I surprised anything is reading properly. My gas gauge is still not reading right however it is reading over a half a tank now.(progress maybe). If you have ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I REALLY APPRECIATE EVERYONE'S INPUT AND HELP...
#112 of 165 Re: Problem Fixed [kstoecklein]
May 20, 2011 (8:13 pm)
Thanks I have the exact same problem and today it finally gave up the gun even when the car was cold.
My mechanic said he thought it was the fuel pump also, problem is he says, is the fuel pump is an assembly that has a bunch of other components that costs in the neighborhood of $400.. Will look for a junk yard special or internet special.
Thanks for the info.
#113 of 165 ignition modulator
May 26, 2011 (4:19 pm)
Where do you find the ignition modulator on a 94 Taurus. The book shows it as if it's right under the distributor cap but that does not seem to be the case. We're are trying to replace the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and modulator. The plugs also seem particularly hard to get to, especially the one underneath. What is the best way to do this? Do we need to remove other components?