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Ford Taurus Fuel Pump

31 messages, Last post on Oct 11, 2009 at 1:25 AM
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Update........ Looks like it was the fuel pump after all. Had it replaced several weeks ago and haven't had a problem yet. I don't mind spending the money for a fuel pump, but just wanted to be sure it was the right solution. After determining that there was power going to the fuel pump even when the problem existed, I was pretty sure it must be the pump. My guess is that there's a pressure sensor in the pump that cycles on/off the motor that must have been going bad. Does this sound right to any knowledgeable Ford mechanics out there? So...... I'm good to go, and I hope this will help someone else down the road. Thanks for everyone's input. |
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Replying to: kstoecklein (Dec 01, 2007 12:22 pm)
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Replying to: electric (Dec 03, 2007 7:50 am) Well, I'm just glad to be up and running again.
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Replying to: kstoecklein (Dec 03, 2007 9:18 pm) |
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The problem first occured four weeks ago. After a 10 mile run, stopped for gas. After refueling the car would not start. found a nearby mechanic. He checked the spark and it was good. Next he tested for fuel by depressing the valve stem at the end of the fuel manifold. It was dry. He tried cycling the fuel pump by turning the key on and off. It kicked over for a few seconds. Later after the car sat for about a half an hour it started and ran fine. Now it has happened again. This time after a 2 hour 100 mile run. Engine was off for one minute and would not restart. Waited for 30 minutes and tried it. Now again it started and ran normally. Question: 1. Is there a check valve in the system that prevents the fuel from draining back into the tank when the pump is off. If it is lkeaky, the heat of the engine could force the fuel out of the fuel manifold and possibly put fumes into the pump making it loose its prime. A waiting period may allow the fumes to dissapate and allow the pume to operate again. 2. If there is not a check valve then the gears of the pump would perform the same function. If the pump is worn and the fuel leaks around them then the same condition could occur. Can anyone confirm this possibility?
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| Very similar problems as discussed in previous posts. The difference in mine is not resetting. I replaced the pump (NOT a fun job) but after 2 days the same problem came back. Making me wonder if I got a bad pump from Autozone. I didn't test the one I took out when I took it out, but after this problem with the new one I did and it worked. Now granted it was without load but it did run. Was this test valid? If so WHAT is the problem? | |
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Replying to: timeun (Feb 19, 2008 1:58 pm) |
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| First of all I am a certified mechanic and did work for a Ford dealership some years ago. I have been trying to address a fuel pressure problem with this 01 Sable. I have tried numerous different things from replacing the pump with a used assembly (by used assembly I mean the pump and module as a unit), to using the original module with a new aftermarket pump, to using the original pump with the different used module I purchased from the local salvage yard. The used unit I purchased has only 40,000 original miles on it. So I have had this pump in and out this car now 4 times trying different things and yes all the voltages check out at the harness. What I resorted to trying was running direct 12 volt power to both units after I re-assembled them and took a five gallon bucket and submerged just the section of the module that holds the pump. What I found on both units was quite amazing ........ something I've never seen before and believe me I've replaced A LOT of fuel pumps. These particular units have what I think is a bleed off valve in the module for excess fuel pressure or this maybe the check valve to prevent fuel from running back into the tank and draining the fuel manifold on the engine. I have not totally solved this problem yet but I am working on it and I will definitely update shortly as I have yet to figure out what makes this little valve tick and exactly what it controls. I know already I can bypass it and create the needed fuel pressure as I have already tested this, and the system still purges pressure as it should. So I am left confused as to why this little valve is even here. I will update soon. | |
| Well everyone after many hours of work and a lot checks I now have the answer!!! Turns out I was dealing with more than one problem. My "little valve" right off the pump is indeed a anti-drainback valve. Which is the reason why the fuel was bypassing to the tank. So I purchased a complete fuel pump module from the local ford dealer and installed it, only to find out that now I have only 27 lbs. of fuel pressure. After a few hours brainstorming we decided to do a voltage drop test on the pump. Yup you guessed it ......... BAD ground!!!!!! The pump would build 27 lbs of fuel pressure and then shut off. Because this is a non-recirculating system as the pump builds pressure it draws more amperage and of course as we all know the more amperage you draw the bigger the ground you need. To make a long story short the pump would build 27 lbs and quit because it didn't have a good enough ground. Our fix was to run a dedicated ground off the module assembly drill a hole in the floorboard under the rear seat and ground it to the body there where we figured it would not corrode. So the long and short of the deal was the original pump probably went bad due to the poor ground causing the pump to try grounding through itself, hence burns up the pump. Moral of the story is as I like to say the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) method. I should have checked my connections first but since the pumps would run I never thought it would be an electrical connection........... hence everyone make sure you have a good ground it could conceivably be your only problem......make sure you run and auxiliary ground when you test for fuel pressure you can do it right at the pigtail connector. I know I will do that on every one I ever test anymore........ it will eliminate a lot of headaches. | |
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