Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:02 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, SUV
#167 of 192 Tough job
Sep 02, 2009 (8:51 am)
That appears to be a tough job for a part-timer that would be best left to a auto repair shop that has a hydraulic press. Sorting out the different U-joints is quite a task also. I am not sure I would trust a shop to finding the correct U-joint because they deal with so many different vehicles and don't have the time to research the U-joint choices like you would. The difficult part is finding a auto repair shop with a hydraulic press that will use the U-joints that you furnish. That of course will void any guarantee and would give the car repair shop a free hand to do sloppy work.
The build up you noticed in the groove is plastic that the factory uses to hold the U-joint in place. When you drive the U-joint out it destroys the plastic.
I am a long time enemy of car repair shops because an honest car repair shop will go broke. There is so much competition and so small of a profit margin in the car repair business that car repair shops must cheat customers in order to to stay in business. Another method used to increase profits is using inferior off-shore parts and charging premium prices for them. That is not exactly cheating customers but it is unethical. It is always best to do the job your self and use the best parts available.
Examples of the seven different ACDelco U-joints that are used on a 1999 Blazer:
There is a specific application for each of those U-joints or they would not have different part numbers.
#168 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [dp2226]
Sep 02, 2009 (10:08 am)
*Some* parts houses have a press, and you can have the u-joint pressed in after purchase. We used to do this for u-joints, axle bearings, stuff like that. One other thing you need to watch out for is losing tranny fluid while the driveshaft is removed. I recommend putting the rear axle up on jack stands and leaving the front on the ground. Not only do you have to remove the driveshaft from the rear, it helps keep the tranny fluid away from the output shaft extension (where the driveshaft yoke goes in at the front) and less likely to leak out onto the floor.
Congratulations on a successful repair!
Also, look in the rear disc area for oil leakage. You mentioned that there might be a seal leaking. This is a repair that is also a lot easier than you think. I won't go into all the detail here, because pictures are very helpful. But this is really no more than a one hour job if you have done it before, and maybe two if you haven't. You will need a helper, though, because to get the rear axle out of the housing, someone has to push in on the axle shaft outer flange, while someone removes the "C" clip on the differential end. I had my 12 yo son help me on the first one we did. Be prepared, the diff grease from the factory is some of the nastiest smelling stuff you will come across, and wear clothes you don't mind throwing away! It takes three or four washings to get that odor out. When reassembling, use synthetic. No odor.
#169 of 192 Re: noises and problems continued [py072888]
Sep 11, 2009 (4:31 am)
just reading through...maybe its mentioned or solved but it sounds to me that the shake is just a really low idle caused by a tps iac or maf other than that.. beats me?
#170 of 192 Re: irritating noise [jlflemmons]
Sep 11, 2009 (4:36 am)
once again, just answering as i read down through. cat converter will do nothing of what you say, it will kill O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (in converter) and mpg will drop badly and with a 4.3 you cant afford to get worse on gas...lol
#171 of 192 Re: 2001 blazer [blazeone]
Sep 11, 2009 (4:41 am)
had that problem, replaced tensioner(which was shot anyway) along with a new belt. it appeared to me that the noise was coming from the clutch fan... never bothered with it and just put up with the squeak. had the blazer for another 30k and nothing got worse
#172 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [jlflemmons]
Sep 11, 2009 (4:50 am)
just reading through and thought id add... a bad or loose u-joint will vibrate like hell and when stopped, going reverse drive reverse drive will give you a distinct CLINK if u-joint is bad
#173 of 192 O-2 sensor didn't work
Sep 26, 2009 (4:52 pm)
My blazer has been having problems getting up hills (it bogs down) and I don't think it going to get me up the hills. It rattles and sounds like it is giving it all it has. In traffic the fastest I can go is 50 mph and that is with a hill giving me speed. It is vibrating now and stops vibrating only when I hit the gas and there is a smell that smells like something has burnt.
Since the O-2 sensors did not work in fixing this problem do you guys have any suggestions?
#174 of 192 Rubbing noise coming from rear end at low speeds
Oct 26, 2009 (5:10 pm)
I have a '99 Blazer LS 4X4 -- 159,000 miles (I know, woe is me). lol. Anyways, I have a rubbing noise that starts when the vehicle moves and seems to go away for the most part as I get up to highway speeds. It is more noticeable at low speeds. At first it sounded like it was coming from the right rear. I put it up on jack stands and the noise then seemed to be coming from inside the differential. I checked the pinion by hand for play and there is none. I then took the dif cover off and discovered someone had drilled a hole near the top center of it apparently so they could add fluid there? It had a black plastic plug in it. Yikes! Who worked on this thing before I bought it? Curly or Moe?
I've put in new front hub bearings, new u-joints on the rear drive shaft, new rear wheel bearings and seals and new rear brake calipers and disc pads -- the back plates are rusted away making the rotors visible on both back wheels. Will it hurt to leave the rusted away backplates as is? I also installed a new rotor on the right rear and had the other three rotors turned. There are no broken belts in the tires. When I changed the rear wheel bearings I didn't see any metal shavings from the spiders or from the pinion gear. There were no broken teeth on any of the gears. I also noted at the time that there were two shims on each of the spider gears. Does that sound right? It is a GU6 / 3.42 rear.
I am at a loss as to what is causing the rubbing noise and would greatly appreciate any help I can get on this. Thanks in advance!
#175 of 192 1998 Chevy Blazer 4X4 rumbly drivetrain
Nov 04, 2009 (10:21 am)
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer 4X4 and when i hit 45-55 mph i get a horrible growl/rumble (sound and feels like you hit the caution rumble strip on the road) from somewhere in the drivetrain. i have replaced the rear end barrings, took out the front drive shaft, replace the 4x4 drive vacuum pod. The problem didn't start till i put the new tire on it (goodyear ranglers). The issue only last for 3-4 second but it reacurres ever 30 second or so. If you speed up or slow down the sound/feeling goes away. If anyone has had or know what may be wrong with it I would greatly appreciate some advice because i am totally stumped. i have look over everything i can think of.
#176 of 192 Re: 1998 Chevy Blazer 4X4 rumbly drivetrain [ripley09]
Nov 04, 2009 (3:48 pm)
I hate to tell you this but it is probably your tires causing this noise. I had a similar experience when I purchased new Goodyear Wranglers. I learned that there are many different tire designs all under the Wrangler name. The tire store had put on an All-Terrain design on. Anyhow, I didn't even make it home on these new tires as the noise was so objectionable.
I had the tire store pull the Wranglers off and put Toyo tires on instead and they ride nice and quiet. Hope this helps.