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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

192 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:02 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, SUV

Messages Page 17 of 20

#161 of 192 Re: irritating noise [larishere] by richk28

Aug 08, 2009 (6:45 am)

Replying to: larishere (Jun 30, 2009 10:05 pm)
I have a 1999 S10 ZR2 with the same issue. After several months of ?? I figured it out while replacing the front brakes. There is a dust shield behind the caliper and near the hub it had a 4 to 5 inch crack. When Driving the wind/air flow would push the shield against the rotor making a metallic grinding sound. I tried to epoxy it with JB Weld as I did not have a welder handy. The JB Weld did not hold for more than a few weeks. I will weld it when I have a chance.

#162 of 192 Loud vibrating sound back end by dp2226

Aug 19, 2009 (7:41 am)

I picked up a 1999 Blazer a few months ago. Engine is great shape, rebuilt. Needed some front suspension work. At 65-75 mph while driving on the highway sounds like I am driving in a prop jet. Makes a vibrating noise in the far back
 
I should add I had to put new tires on it and are Goodyear RT/S. Not a quiet road tire.
 
Just want to be sure this has nothing to do with wheel bearings. I was concerned one looked like it was leaking grease from a bad seal. Or are older blazers just loud

#163 of 192 Click or pop when going in reverse by dp2226

Aug 19, 2009 (11:13 am)

I notice when I initally back up ,after already in reverse, there is a loud click or pop in the back end. Not turn either direction, just straight back. Worn axel bearing?

#164 of 192 Re: Loud vibrating sound back end [dp2226] by bammon

Aug 19, 2009 (3:09 pm)

Replying to: dp2226 (Aug 19, 2009 7:41 am)
After my experience of replacing practically on the front end of my 98 blazer I found out it was the rear axle bearings wearing into the rear axles;
 From what you describe it sounds like the problem may be your axle bearings.
I hope this helps
Thanks

#165 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [dp2226] by jlflemmons

Aug 19, 2009 (7:49 pm)

Replying to: dp2226 (Aug 19, 2009 11:13 am)
Check the rear u-joint. It is typical for them to both vibrate at speed, and make popping/snapping sounds when changing the direction of torque on the joint, such as moving from forward to reverse and vice-versa.
 
Might want to look into this pretty quickly. If it is the u-joint and it is already vibrating/noisy/popping, it is not in good shape. Cheap fix if done before it completely lets go, expensive if it snaps while driving down the highway.
 
good luck

#166 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [jlflemmons] by dp2226

Sep 02, 2009 (5:43 am)

Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 19, 2009 7:49 pm)
That was exactly the problem. I replaced the front one as well. I really appreciate the help.
 
The rest is advice for anyone doing this for the first time like me
 
The front U-joint on a 1999 blazer was the same size as the rear. There was a different size listed for the front but on my blazer was way too small. The caps had a quarter inch of play. Plus the wrong size one had two outter clips. If you did not see outer clips on your present part, you use the same size as the back one.
 
The fit for the front one leaves no room for error to get the clip to seat properly. Take your time and do a little each side. I did not have the clip seated firmly and ended up on the side of the road with drive shaft hanging. What a different in acceleration, both torque and a quiet ride.
 
Still thinking of just checking the rear wheel bearings too but if you have a similar problem, this was a $30 repair and well worth every penny.
 
Have fun trying to pound out the old joint. Take the whole shaft right out and put it in a vise. There were two brackets to unscrew in the back, the front section just slides right out. You do have to get the back section out first to be able to slide out the front. The back side seems wedged in there but will come out.
 
Once the shaft is off the truck. I did not have to use heat, just a couple sockets. The sockets will get messed up so do not use expensive ones. Like many sites state you have to beat the p!ss out of them. they are not kidding. I used a 3lb sledge and what ever you think hard hitting is, triple it. I did spray some PB blaster and scored the outer area around the caps, plus remember to take the retaining clips out. Each U-joint had four and a couple looked like they were welded in place from build up but are not. Just a punch or screw driver, and a hammer will tap them out.
 
When installing the new ones. You still need a socket to pound them in and alternate sides doing a few gentler hits, I cracked a bearing cap hitting it directly, probably contribute to my break down. I did not have to take the clips off while under the car. A screw driver and rubber mallet helped pull them off. The rubber mallet was nice to knock them back on without smashing my fingers.
 
Also when you take out the old ones take the time to clean out the inner ring of the holes. There was lots of built up of something in there.
 
Hope these tips help any one doing this the first time like me go smoother. I am just a DIY guy learning as I go.

#167 of 192 Tough job by duntov

Sep 02, 2009 (8:51 am)

That appears to be a tough job for a part-timer that would be best left to a auto repair shop that has a hydraulic press. Sorting out the different U-joints is quite a task also. I am not sure I would trust a shop to finding the correct U-joint because they deal with so many different vehicles and don't have the time to research the U-joint choices like you would. The difficult part is finding a auto repair shop with a hydraulic press that will use the U-joints that you furnish. That of course will void any guarantee and would give the car repair shop a free hand to do sloppy work.
 
The build up you noticed in the groove is plastic that the factory uses to hold the U-joint in place. When you drive the U-joint out it destroys the plastic.
 
I am a long time enemy of car repair shops because an honest car repair shop will go broke. There is so much competition and so small of a profit margin in the car repair business that car repair shops must cheat customers in order to to stay in business. Another method used to increase profits is using inferior off-shore parts and charging premium prices for them. That is not exactly cheating customers but it is unethical. It is always best to do the job your self and use the best parts available.
  
Examples of the seven different ACDelco U-joints that are used on a 1999 Blazer:
45U-0109
45U-0110
45U-0123
45U-0136
45U-0131
45U-0103
45U-0108
 
There is a specific application for each of those U-joints or they would not have different part numbers.

#168 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [dp2226] by jlflemmons

Sep 02, 2009 (10:08 am)

Replying to: dp2226 (Sep 02, 2009 5:43 am)
*Some* parts houses have a press, and you can have the u-joint pressed in after purchase. We used to do this for u-joints, axle bearings, stuff like that. One other thing you need to watch out for is losing tranny fluid while the driveshaft is removed. I recommend putting the rear axle up on jack stands and leaving the front on the ground. Not only do you have to remove the driveshaft from the rear, it helps keep the tranny fluid away from the output shaft extension (where the driveshaft yoke goes in at the front) and less likely to leak out onto the floor.
 
Congratulations on a successful repair!
 
Also, look in the rear disc area for oil leakage. You mentioned that there might be a seal leaking. This is a repair that is also a lot easier than you think. I won't go into all the detail here, because pictures are very helpful. But this is really no more than a one hour job if you have done it before, and maybe two if you haven't. You will need a helper, though, because to get the rear axle out of the housing, someone has to push in on the axle shaft outer flange, while someone removes the "C" clip on the differential end. I had my 12 yo son help me on the first one we did. Be prepared, the diff grease from the factory is some of the nastiest smelling stuff you will come across, and wear clothes you don't mind throwing away! It takes three or four washings to get that odor out. When reassembling, use synthetic. No odor.

#169 of 192 Re: noises and problems continued [py072888] by blazer6973547

Sep 11, 2009 (4:31 am)

Replying to: py072888 (Jun 15, 2009 9:36 pm)
just reading through...maybe its mentioned or solved but it sounds to me that the shake is just a really low idle caused by a tps iac or maf other than that.. beats me?

#170 of 192 Re: irritating noise [jlflemmons] by blazer6973547

Sep 11, 2009 (4:36 am)

Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 04, 2009 3:14 pm)
once again, just answering as i read down through. cat converter will do nothing of what you say, it will kill O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (in converter) and mpg will drop badly and with a 4.3 you cant afford to get worse on gas...lol

Messages Page 17 of 20

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