Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:02 AM
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Chevrolet Blazer, SUV
#157 of 192 Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt
Jul 15, 2009 (7:01 am)
Try a Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt. I have a Gatorback on my 1991 S10 Blazer SUV and the belt and pulleys are quiet. I started to replace it with a AC Delco serpentine belt because i like my car to be ALL GM but after I looked at the wear indicator on the tensioner pulley bracket, I left the Gatorback on the engine. The good thing about the automatic tensioner is the wear indicator and you do not have to worry about over tightening or leaving the serpentine belt too loose. The serpentine belt will lose 10% of it's original installation tension within 1,000 miles. If you want a quick fix for a squeeking belt, spray some Armor All on the belt and let it dry about an hour before starting the engine. I tried that on one of my 1963 Pontiacs with a single V-belt and it was a permanent fix. I could have fixed the V-belt squeal by tightening the alternator over the limit and risk damage to to the bearing in the alternator or water pump.
My Blazer has about 145,000 miles on it and the thermostatic controlled fan clutch which I think should be replaced even though it is not squeeking. That is because when the ambient temperature is over 95 degrees, the engine runs at 195 degrees but the engine temperature climbs to 200+ degrees when idling with the A/C on. I am not too concerned about the engine temperature but I feel like a new thremo-controlled fan clutch would keep the running and the idle temperature at 195 degrees.
#158 of 192 Re: 2001 blazer [jlflemmons]
by steve_ HOST
Jul 15, 2009 (5:40 pm)
I've heard that the cause of some Gates belts making noise is the paint they use to put their logo on the belt. It's raised just enough to cause a noise, at least until the paint wears off.
The paint noise may be more rhythmic than what Blazeone is hearing though. The test, like you say, is to see if the noise goes away with some belt dressing.
#159 of 192 Re: Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt [duntov]
Jul 15, 2009 (9:07 pm)
I had to change the fan clutch on my '02 a couple of weeks ago. Same thing, at idle in high temps (it has been 100+ here for a couple of weeks) the temp was climbing up to around 225 or so. Now it doesn't make it to the 210 mark.
The other clue was when starting out, no fan roar, which these little beasties are famous for.
#160 of 192 Re: 2000 Jimmy 4x4 - clunking while turning right [repairdog]
Aug 05, 2009 (3:32 pm)
I know this is an old thread but I have my truck in pieces and I'm getting desparate. I have a 2000 ZR2 and I replaced the outer seal on the front differential recently. The next day I went to check all my bolts etc to make sure all was tight (drove perfect) and found that I had torn the outer boot at some point. So I just got done taking the shaft back out and I have cut the old boot off. Now I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the outer CV joint apart to install the new boot. Tried banging the hell out of it to no avail. Any help would be appreciated!
#161 of 192 Re: irritating noise [larishere]
Aug 08, 2009 (6:45 am)
I have a 1999 S10 ZR2 with the same issue. After several months of ?? I figured it out while replacing the front brakes. There is a dust shield behind the caliper and near the hub it had a 4 to 5 inch crack. When Driving the wind/air flow would push the shield against the rotor making a metallic grinding sound. I tried to epoxy it with JB Weld as I did not have a welder handy. The JB Weld did not hold for more than a few weeks. I will weld it when I have a chance.
#162 of 192 Loud vibrating sound back end
Aug 19, 2009 (7:41 am)
I picked up a 1999 Blazer a few months ago. Engine is great shape, rebuilt. Needed some front suspension work. At 65-75 mph while driving on the highway sounds like I am driving in a prop jet. Makes a vibrating noise in the far back
I should add I had to put new tires on it and are Goodyear RT/S. Not a quiet road tire.
Just want to be sure this has nothing to do with wheel bearings. I was concerned one looked like it was leaking grease from a bad seal. Or are older blazers just loud
#163 of 192 Click or pop when going in reverse
Aug 19, 2009 (11:13 am)
I notice when I initally back up ,after already in reverse, there is a loud click or pop in the back end. Not turn either direction, just straight back. Worn axel bearing?
#164 of 192 Re: Loud vibrating sound back end [dp2226]
Aug 19, 2009 (3:09 pm)
After my experience of replacing practically on the front end of my 98 blazer I found out it was the rear axle bearings wearing into the rear axles;
From what you describe it sounds like the problem may be your axle bearings.
I hope this helps
#165 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [dp2226]
Aug 19, 2009 (7:49 pm)
Check the rear u-joint. It is typical for them to both vibrate at speed, and make popping/snapping sounds when changing the direction of torque on the joint, such as moving from forward to reverse and vice-versa.
Might want to look into this pretty quickly. If it is the u-joint and it is already vibrating/noisy/popping, it is not in good shape. Cheap fix if done before it completely lets go, expensive if it snaps while driving down the highway.
#166 of 192 Re: Click or pop when going in reverse [jlflemmons]
Sep 02, 2009 (5:43 am)
That was exactly the problem. I replaced the front one as well. I really appreciate the help.
The rest is advice for anyone doing this for the first time like me
The front U-joint on a 1999 blazer was the same size as the rear. There was a different size listed for the front but on my blazer was way too small. The caps had a quarter inch of play. Plus the wrong size one had two outter clips. If you did not see outer clips on your present part, you use the same size as the back one.
The fit for the front one leaves no room for error to get the clip to seat properly. Take your time and do a little each side. I did not have the clip seated firmly and ended up on the side of the road with drive shaft hanging. What a different in acceleration, both torque and a quiet ride.
Still thinking of just checking the rear wheel bearings too but if you have a similar problem, this was a $30 repair and well worth every penny.
Have fun trying to pound out the old joint. Take the whole shaft right out and put it in a vise. There were two brackets to unscrew in the back, the front section just slides right out. You do have to get the back section out first to be able to slide out the front. The back side seems wedged in there but will come out.
Once the shaft is off the truck. I did not have to use heat, just a couple sockets. The sockets will get messed up so do not use expensive ones. Like many sites state you have to beat the p!ss out of them. they are not kidding. I used a 3lb sledge and what ever you think hard hitting is, triple it. I did spray some PB blaster and scored the outer area around the caps, plus remember to take the retaining clips out. Each U-joint had four and a couple looked like they were welded in place from build up but are not. Just a punch or screw driver, and a hammer will tap them out.
When installing the new ones. You still need a socket to pound them in and alternate sides doing a few gentler hits, I cracked a bearing cap hitting it directly, probably contribute to my break down. I did not have to take the clips off while under the car. A screw driver and rubber mallet helped pull them off. The rubber mallet was nice to knock them back on without smashing my fingers.
Also when you take out the old ones take the time to clean out the inner ring of the holes. There was lots of built up of something in there.
Hope these tips help any one doing this the first time like me go smoother. I am just a DIY guy learning as I go.