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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

176 messages,  Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 2:48 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, SUV


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#127 of 176
Re: SOS! intermittent LOUD noise 98 Blazer LT 4x4 [bammon] by dabbydo1952
May 17, 2009 (9:22 am)
Reply

Replying to: bammon (Nov 14, 2008 10:19 pm)

I have the same problem. The whirring started out lightly. Now it is very loud. I also feel some vibration under my feet (driver's side). I have had brakes replaced twice, serpenine belt, just replaced fuel filter for $900, new ball joints (my wheel actually fell off as I pulled in my sister's driveway), and a new alternator. I am a single woman and don't want to be stranded alongside a highway. Do you have any ideas what this is? Kat
#128 of 176
Re: 95 blazer front end noise hub bearing? [1motoman] by bammon
May 17, 2009 (11:54 am)
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Replying to: 1motoman (Feb 22, 2009 11:48 am)

Hi,
Sounds like it might be your halfshaft/driveshaft since it stops making noise when turning steering wheel; not a easy fix but neither is the hub bearing replacement; this repair could cost $600 or more if you take in in; but if you replace it on your own ( if you have the right tools) it would cost you $150-$300 for a new driveshaft depending on where you purchase it.
 
Thanks
#129 of 176
Re: SOS! intermittent LOUD noise 98 Blazer LT 4x4 [dabbydo1952] by bammon
May 17, 2009 (12:13 pm)
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Replying to: dabbydo1952 (May 17, 2009 9:22 am)

The whirring sounds like it would be your front drive axle/halfshaft, but that is what I thought was wrong with mine until:
On my 98 blazer I found out after replacing front drive axles, wheel bearings, 4x4 front differentail, ball joints, drive line universal joints etc. that it was still making noise and vibrating just as bad as before; I finally decided to remove the rear axles and found out the axle/wheel bearing had worn a deep grove in the rear axles; I purchased new rear axle shafts and bearings and installed them ( somewhat difficult process) and finally the problem was resolved; The vibration and noise was gone; I don't know if this is the problem with your blazer. I hope this helps
 
Thanks
Ammon
#130 of 176
Re: SOS! intermittent LOUD noise 98 Blazer LT 4x4 [bammon] by dabbydo1952
May 18, 2009 (4:12 am)
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Replying to: bammon (May 17, 2009 12:13 pm)

Is it expensive? I have put so much money in this thing. I feel like shooting it and putting it out of its misery....and mine, too!
 
Kat
#131 of 176
Re: chevy blazer noises and sounds [red04] by dabbydo1952
May 18, 2009 (4:17 am)
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Replying to: red04 (Sep 28, 2008 6:53 pm)

That's what mine is doing, too. It is getting progressively louder and louder.....very loud right now. I just spent $900 on a fuel filter, and I can't afford any more.
#132 of 176
Transfer case by duntov
May 18, 2009 (9:42 am)
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On my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 SUV the front wheel drive transfer case is directly under the driver's feet. I never use the 4x4 but I sometimes hear a noise coming from that area. When yoiu change your oil, it may be wise to at least inspect the fluid level or completely change the transmission fluid (Dextron III) in the 4x4 transfer case. That is a simple job. The fill and drain plug are large (over 1 inch) metric plugs. The largest expense is purchasing a metric socket that size or maybe I can borrow one. The 4x4 transfer case is chain driven and chains become noisy without adequate lube. However, I don't think the chain is moving if the 4x4 is not engaged but I don't know for sure.
 
The fluid in the 4x4 transfer case on my 1991 S10 Blazer has never been changed and I see no sign of any leaks so I suppose the transmission fluid in the transfer case is probably just worn out. I changed the filter and fluid in my transmission recently and it was still bright red, meaning, it was good. I think the previous owner (my daughter) had the transmission fluid changed sometime since she bought the car in 1991. My 1991 S10 Blazer is in amazingly mint condition for a 18 yerar old car and even has the original spare and tire cover hanging on the tail gate.
#133 of 176
2000 Blazer by dabbydo1952
May 19, 2009 (5:02 am)
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Well, I took my car to the mechanic yesterday. He told me my differential was going out.....$1,500! I just put $900 in it for a new fuel pump. I told him I would give him $5.00 to drive it off a cliff. I also asked if he thought someone would steal it if I left the keys in it! No takers. A thief doesn't even want it. He told me it would either go out and coast to the side of the road or could possibly lock up the rear wheels and put me into a skid. Oh, goodie! He also told me I need new tires. So, I am not very happy!
#134 of 176
1996 chevy blazer by foxyroxy3869
May 19, 2009 (5:37 am)
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I have a 1996 chevy blazer and my lights keeps going off intermittently. During that time I can hear noise coming from my glove box. I changed all 3 relay switches in the glove box and to no avail, my lights still keep going off. I spoke with several people who told me it could possible be my turn signal arm or a poor connection. Need some assistance.
#135 of 176
Eaton Gov-Loc differential by duntov
May 19, 2009 (6:47 am)
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The Gov-Loc rear differentials used in the S10 Blazers and other GM intermediates are good units if they are not abused. They are a unique locking - unlocking type differential and they work well for their intended use. The Gov-loc differential will sense relative wheel speed and when one rear wheel is spinning 100 RPM faster that the other, the Gov-Loc will lock up and engage both axles. The when the vehicle reaches 20 MPH, the Gov-loc will disengage the axles and function as a conventional differential. Spinning one rear wheel in gravel or mud and if the other wheel hits solid pavement the subsequent impact shock to the differential when it locks the axles will instantly destroy a Gov-Loc. .Richmond makes a No-Slip differential that costs $400 and is a direct replacment for the Eaton Gov-Loc differential used in GM intermediates. Te Richmond No-Slip differential will stand mose any kind of abuse with an engine with up to 275 to 300 HP. The Richmond No-Slip differential is a locking type differential that may be troublesome for some people to drive on the street but it is far more durable than a Gov-Loc. The Eaton Gov-Loc replaced the clutch type limited slip differentials that GM first introduced in 1957.. The old clutch type limited-slip differentials required whale oil as a friction modifier additive. Whale oil is not available anymore to use as a friction modifier because of the international restrictions against harvesting whales for their oil.
 
Look on your glove compartment door for RPO code G80. If that code is on the RPO decal on the glove compartment door, you have the troublesome Gov-Loc differential.
#136 of 176
Re: 2000 Blazer [dabbydo1952] by jlflemmons
May 19, 2009 (2:29 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dabbydo1952 (May 19, 2009 5:02 am)

Get a second opinion. While it is possible for a high mileage, or heavy towing, to kill the bearings in the diff, that $1500 estimate is high. A complete rebuilt or used unit is what he is quoting, and if you can find a good drivetrain shop they should be able to re-use something out of the original. The typical failure I have seen is the pinion gear bearing, and many times that is caused by having the pinion shaft seal replaced and the bearing being over torqued on reassembly. Very, VERY common on Chevy differentials. You really need to make sure you are dealing with someone who understands that the Chevy has very specific torque specs, and to exceed them will kill the differential.

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