Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:02 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, SUV
Nov 15, 2008 (7:21 am)
I have a 1991 S10 Blazer 4WD, 4WAL ABS brakes. I have the "ABS Blues" and it will cost about $800 to replace the EHCU (electro-hydraulic control unit) and bleed the 4-WAL ABS brakes. ABS brakes are the most stupid and useless feature that the federall government has made the automakers put on their cars. However, my Blazer is 18 years and is in such good condition with pefect paint, body, trim and acessories, and it would be a shame to junk it because of the brake problems. Even though the resale or trade-in value is next to nothing. The S-series vehicles are delecate, high maintenance and expensive to work on.
The whine or noise from the floor is probably coming from the 4WD transfer case. The transmission fluid in the transfer case should be checked and replaced at 10,000 mile intervals, and sooner depending on the use of the 4WD . NEVER use 4WD on sand or pavement and always use the same size tires with equal tire pressure on front and back. Good traction on pavement and uneven traction in sand will put a higher load on the unit and invite premature failure, sometimes within a few miles! The area around the transfer case selector switch should be inspected for leaks. Even if there is no evidence of leaks , the vacuum line assembly should be disconnected from the selctor switch and inspected for transmission fluid inside the vacuum lines. In August 2004, GM had a part number change on defective 4WD 3-port selector switches used on the transfer case with a green inspection mark. . The OEM switch should be replaced with the new 3-port switch which is GM part number 89059420 with a blue inspection mark . This switch fits the transfer cases on 1991 - 2005 Chevrolet S-series vehicles with 4WD. The vacuum lines are 1.) engine vacuum 2.) vent port and 3.) actuator (servo) vacuum line. The acutuator (servo) is located under the battery and it too can be defective. First determine if vacuum is getting to the servo before unit is replaced.
NOTE: When the fluid in the transfer case if changed, open the filler plug on the transfer case FIRST then open the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid. That is in case the fill plug is seized and cannot be opened. That will be rare but it is possible. Refill the transfer case with red Dextron III until transmission fluid it is at the filler plug level.The 1995-2005 S-series transfer cases should use green GM synthetic transmission fluid.
#120 of 192 Re: main bearings [duntov]
Nov 15, 2008 (8:48 pm)
I have a feeling that's exactly what it is. Now it won't diminish at all. I think it will be time for a complete rebuild because I also now here a ticking noise in the top end too. It's a shame because it only has 125k on it and it wasn't driven hard at all since I bought it 3 yrs ago with only 54k. I just hope I didn't wipe out the crank too. I have and 89 motor I can steal the crank out of if I did.
#121 of 192 heater core
Nov 22, 2008 (5:30 pm)
How do you replace a heater core in a 2000 chevy blazer
#122 of 192 Re: heater core [teeko]
Nov 22, 2008 (6:30 pm)
You have to pull the dash apart. Major job. Do a search in the maintenance and repair on replacing heater core and you will find directions.
#123 of 192 Re: heater core [jlflemmons]
Nov 22, 2008 (9:27 pm)
Thanks for youre info much appreciated. And yes dash is apart now ,wow big job alright.
#124 of 192 Heater core in 2000 blazer
Nov 25, 2008 (12:40 pm)
I know when I had to replace the one in my wifes blazer, it wasn't hard but just very time consuming. And don't forget about the bolt down in the heater box under the hood. It's a pain to get to, but the interior box can't be removed without it removed first. Good ol' black RTV works good to seal the piece back in that you have to cut out.
#125 of 192 Re: main bearings [duntov]
Nov 25, 2008 (12:52 pm)
The oil pressure in my first text is at normal operating temp. The oil pressure cold is around 50-55 lbs. Then it will fall to 45 lbs as the engine warms up. But now that the weather has turned colder, it has gotten worse. I'm just going to rebuild the complete bottom end, new crank, rods and mains, and a new oil pump. The motor has to come out to do anything to the bottom end.
#126 of 192 95 blazer front end noise hub bearing?
Feb 22, 2009 (12:48 pm)
my 95 blazer is making a loud humming sound when i drive it seems to be coming from the drivers side front possibly hub bearing/ how can i find out if it is this? it is very loud on freeway when i turn to the right it stops if it is the hub bearing is it an easy fix?
#127 of 192 Re: SOS! intermittent LOUD noise 98 Blazer LT 4x4 [bammon]
May 17, 2009 (10:22 am)
I have the same problem. The whirring started out lightly. Now it is very loud. I also feel some vibration under my feet (driver's side). I have had brakes replaced twice, serpenine belt, just replaced fuel filter for $900, new ball joints (my wheel actually fell off as I pulled in my sister's driveway), and a new alternator. I am a single woman and don't want to be stranded alongside a highway. Do you have any ideas what this is? Kat
#128 of 192 Re: 95 blazer front end noise hub bearing? [1motoman]
May 17, 2009 (12:54 pm)
Sounds like it might be your halfshaft/driveshaft since it stops making noise when turning steering wheel; not a easy fix but neither is the hub bearing replacement; this repair could cost $600 or more if you take in in; but if you replace it on your own ( if you have the right tools) it would cost you $150-$300 for a new driveshaft depending on where you purchase it.