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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

176 messages,  Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 2:48 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, SUV


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#117 of 176
main bearings by duntov
Nov 13, 2008 (8:37 am)
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That sounds like loose clearances in the main bearings and if it is more pronounced in the rear area, it is the rear main bearing. The rear main bearing receives the most load of all the main bearings. Usually if a cast iron crank breaks, it will always break at the rear main bearing journal. That is why the rear main bearing is usually wider for better load carrying capacity than the others and has larger main cap bolts with a higher torque requirement. After the engine sits for a period of time or long enough for the residual oil to drain out of the crank and from the looser bearing clearances, you may her bearing knock until oil is pumped up and reaches the bearings from the oil pan. When oil reaches the bearings the oil "floats" the crank and the bearing noise dimnishes. Oil pumps are rated to produce 50 lb. pressure above 800 - 1000 RPM, and when oil pump overcomes the wider bearing clearances then the oil pressure pressure remains high and constant. Higher viscosity oil may reduce the bearing noise but it will also slow the flow to the bearings and the crank will take longer to float in the oil.
 
How is the oil pressure at idle (600 RPM) when the engine is at operating temperature? If it is less than 7 lb., that is evidence the bearings have loose clearances. Engine oil pressure before the engine is at operating temperature means nothing.
#118 of 176
Re: SOS! intermittent LOUD noise 98 Blazer LT 4x4 [troublelight] by bammon
Nov 14, 2008 (10:19 pm)
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Replying to: troublelight (Aug 13, 2007 9:39 am)

I doint know if this will give you any insite to your problem
 
I have a 97 chev blazer that is making whirring type noise ( seems to be comming from front driverside undercarriage with some vibration felt on driverside floor board ; over the last two years I have relaced both halfshafts ( fron axels) twice, new rotors/brakes, new wheel bearings twice on driverside and once on passager side, new U joints in main rear drive shaft; idler arm, driverside ball joints twice; passenger side balljoints once, new tires twice, new shocks front and back, I have taken it in for tire balance numerous times; with all mechanics advice still makes noise but has gotton louder the last few weeks; now I am preparing to drop front diffential and rebuild with bearing/seal kit; hoever I dont feel to enthusiasic or remotely sure if this is the provlem. This doen't include all of the other non related repairs I have done; WHAT A LEMMON! I paid way too much for it in the first place and then the value has dropped I suppose due to the poor reputation; I have poured $1000-$2000 total into it for repairs and it is still hungry; on the possitive side at least I am getting a lot of excercise. maybe I should just push it off a cliff rather than try and sell it and give someone else the pains and edless pit of repairs and $. Lesson learned; never judge a car by it's cover.
#119 of 176
How true by duntov
Nov 15, 2008 (6:21 am)
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I have a 1991 S10 Blazer 4WD, 4WAL ABS brakes. I have the "ABS Blues" and it will cost about $800 to replace the EHCU (electro-hydraulic control unit) and bleed the 4-WAL ABS brakes. ABS brakes are the most stupid and useless feature that the federall government has made the automakers put on their cars. However, my Blazer is 18 years and is in such good condition with pefect paint, body, trim and acessories, and it would be a shame to junk it because of the brake problems. Even though the resale or trade-in value is next to nothing. The S-series vehicles are delecate, high maintenance and expensive to work on.
 
The whine or noise from the floor is probably coming from the 4WD transfer case. The transmission fluid in the transfer case should be checked and replaced at 10,000 mile intervals, and sooner depending on the use of the 4WD . NEVER use 4WD on sand or pavement and always use the same size tires with equal tire pressure on front and back. Good traction on pavement and uneven traction in sand will put a higher load on the unit and invite premature failure, sometimes within a few miles! The area around the transfer case selector switch should be inspected for leaks. Even if there is no evidence of leaks , the vacuum line assembly should be disconnected from the selctor switch and inspected for transmission fluid inside the vacuum lines. In August 2004, GM had a part number change on defective 4WD 3-port selector switches used on the transfer case with a green inspection mark. . The OEM switch should be replaced with the new 3-port switch which is GM part number 89059420 with a blue inspection mark . This switch fits the transfer cases on 1991 - 2005 Chevrolet S-series vehicles with 4WD. The vacuum lines are 1.) engine vacuum 2.) vent port and 3.) actuator (servo) vacuum line. The acutuator (servo) is located under the battery and it too can be defective. First determine if vacuum is getting to the servo before unit is replaced.
 
NOTE: When the fluid in the transfer case if changed, open the filler plug on the transfer case FIRST then open the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid. That is in case the fill plug is seized and cannot be opened. That will be rare but it is possible. Refill the transfer case with red Dextron III until transmission fluid it is at the filler plug level.The 1995-2005 S-series transfer cases should use green GM synthetic transmission fluid.
#120 of 176
Re: main bearings [duntov] by rocco43
Nov 15, 2008 (7:48 pm)
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Replying to: duntov (Nov 13, 2008 8:37 am)

I have a feeling that's exactly what it is. Now it won't diminish at all. I think it will be time for a complete rebuild because I also now here a ticking noise in the top end too. It's a shame because it only has 125k on it and it wasn't driven hard at all since I bought it 3 yrs ago with only 54k. I just hope I didn't wipe out the crank too. I have and 89 motor I can steal the crank out of if I did.
#121 of 176
heater core by teeko
Nov 22, 2008 (4:30 pm)
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How do you replace a heater core in a 2000 chevy blazer
#122 of 176
Re: heater core [teeko] by jlflemmons
Nov 22, 2008 (5:30 pm)
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Replying to: teeko (Nov 22, 2008 4:30 pm)

You have to pull the dash apart. Major job. Do a search in the maintenance and repair on replacing heater core and you will find directions.
#123 of 176
Re: heater core [jlflemmons] by teeko
Nov 22, 2008 (8:27 pm)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Nov 22, 2008 5:30 pm)

Thanks for youre info much appreciated. And yes dash is apart now ,wow big job alright.
#124 of 176
Heater core in 2000 blazer by rocco43
Nov 25, 2008 (11:40 am)
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I know when I had to replace the one in my wifes blazer, it wasn't hard but just very time consuming. And don't forget about the bolt down in the heater box under the hood. It's a pain to get to, but the interior box can't be removed without it removed first. Good ol' black RTV works good to seal the piece back in that you have to cut out.
#125 of 176
Re: main bearings [duntov] by rocco43
Nov 25, 2008 (11:52 am)
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Replying to: duntov (Nov 13, 2008 8:37 am)

The oil pressure in my first text is at normal operating temp. The oil pressure cold is around 50-55 lbs. Then it will fall to 45 lbs as the engine warms up. But now that the weather has turned colder, it has gotten worse. I'm just going to rebuild the complete bottom end, new crank, rods and mains, and a new oil pump. The motor has to come out to do anything to the bottom end.
#126 of 176
95 blazer front end noise hub bearing? by 1motoman
Feb 22, 2009 (11:48 am)
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my 95 blazer is making a loud humming sound when i drive it seems to be coming from the drivers side front possibly hub bearing/ how can i find out if it is this? it is very loud on freeway when i turn to the right it stops if it is the hub bearing is it an easy fix?

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