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Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

176 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 2:48 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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That appears to be a tough job for a part-timer that would be best left to a auto repair shop that has a hydraulic press. Sorting out the different U-joints is quite a task also. I am not sure I would trust a shop to finding the correct U-joint because they deal with so many different vehicles and don't have the time to research the U-joint choices like you would. The difficult part is finding a auto repair shop with a hydraulic press that will use the U-joints that you furnish. That of course will void any guarantee and would give the car repair shop a free hand to do sloppy work. The build up you noticed in the groove is plastic that the factory uses to hold the U-joint in place. When you drive the U-joint out it destroys the plastic. I am a long time enemy of car repair shops because an honest car repair shop will go broke. There is so much competition and so small of a profit margin in the car repair business that car repair shops must cheat customers in order to to stay in business. Another method used to increase profits is using inferior off-shore parts and charging premium prices for them. That is not exactly cheating customers but it is unethical. It is always best to do the job your self and use the best parts available. Examples of the seven different ACDelco U-joints that are used on a 1999 Blazer: 45U-0109 45U-0110 45U-0123 45U-0136 45U-0131 45U-0103 45U-0108 There is a specific application for each of those U-joints or they would not have different part numbers. |
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Replying to: dp2226 (Sep 02, 2009 4:43 am) Congratulations on a successful repair! Also, look in the rear disc area for oil leakage. You mentioned that there might be a seal leaking. This is a repair that is also a lot easier than you think. I won't go into all the detail here, because pictures are very helpful. But this is really no more than a one hour job if you have done it before, and maybe two if you haven't. You will need a helper, though, because to get the rear axle out of the housing, someone has to push in on the axle shaft outer flange, while someone removes the "C" clip on the differential end. I had my 12 yo son help me on the first one we did. Be prepared, the diff grease from the factory is some of the nastiest smelling stuff you will come across, and wear clothes you don't mind throwing away! It takes three or four washings to get that odor out. When reassembling, use synthetic. No odor. |
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Replying to: py072888 (Jun 15, 2009 8:36 pm) |
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Jul 04, 2009 2:14 pm) |
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Replying to: blazeone (Jul 15, 2009 3:20 am) |
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Aug 19, 2009 6:49 pm) |
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My blazer has been having problems getting up hills (it bogs down) and I don't think it going to get me up the hills. It rattles and sounds like it is giving it all it has. In traffic the fastest I can go is 50 mph and that is with a hill giving me speed. It is vibrating now and stops vibrating only when I hit the gas and there is a smell that smells like something has burnt. Since the O-2 sensors did not work in fixing this problem do you guys have any suggestions? |
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I have a '99 Blazer LS 4X4 -- 159,000 miles (I know, woe is me). lol. Anyways, I have a rubbing noise that starts when the vehicle moves and seems to go away for the most part as I get up to highway speeds. It is more noticeable at low speeds. At first it sounded like it was coming from the right rear. I put it up on jack stands and the noise then seemed to be coming from inside the differential. I checked the pinion by hand for play and there is none. I then took the dif cover off and discovered someone had drilled a hole near the top center of it apparently so they could add fluid there? It had a black plastic plug in it. Yikes! Who worked on this thing before I bought it? Curly or Moe? I've put in new front hub bearings, new u-joints on the rear drive shaft, new rear wheel bearings and seals and new rear brake calipers and disc pads -- the back plates are rusted away making the rotors visible on both back wheels. Will it hurt to leave the rusted away backplates as is? I also installed a new rotor on the right rear and had the other three rotors turned. There are no broken belts in the tires. When I changed the rear wheel bearings I didn't see any metal shavings from the spiders or from the pinion gear. There were no broken teeth on any of the gears. I also noted at the time that there were two shims on each of the spider gears. Does that sound right? It is a GU6 / 3.42 rear. I am at a loss as to what is causing the rubbing noise and would greatly appreciate any help I can get on this. Thanks in advance! -Dave |
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I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer 4X4 and when i hit 45-55 mph i get a horrible growl/rumble (sound and feels like you hit the caution rumble strip on the road) from somewhere in the drivetrain. i have replaced the rear end barrings, took out the front drive shaft, replace the 4x4 drive vacuum pod. The problem didn't start till i put the new tire on it (goodyear ranglers). The issue only last for 3-4 second but it reacurres ever 30 second or so. If you speed up or slow down the sound/feeling goes away. If anyone has had or know what may be wrong with it I would greatly appreciate some advice because i am totally stumped. i have look over everything i can think of.
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Replying to: ripley09 (Nov 04, 2009 9:21 am) I had the tire store pull the Wranglers off and put Toyo tires on instead and they ride nice and quiet. Hope this helps. |
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