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Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

142 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:09 PM

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#91 of 142 Re: is it true i can diconect the battery and the computer codes will clear ? [thesweetrosslg] by ajaks Sep 28, 2007 (8:21 am)
Replying to: thesweetrosslg (Aug 23, 2007 12:04 pm) Yep. But don't do it while the engine is running.
#92 of 142 Chevy Blazer Idle Adj by vdragonfly Jul 20, 2007 (6:47 am)
#93 of 142 Chevy Blazer Idle Adj by vdragonfly Jul 20, 2007 (6:47 am)
Does anyone know how to adjust the idle for a 1993 Chevy Blazer 4WD? Replies to this message: onemarine (Oct 08, 2007 6:55 pm) tidester (Oct 08, 2007 10:21 pm) bingonut (Oct 24, 2007 12:54 pm)
#95 of 142 4.3L DIAGNOSIS HELP FAMILY NEEDS 2 CARS by onemarine Oct 08, 2007 (6:55 pm)
Replying to: vdragonfly (Jul 20, 2007 6:47 am) Hello,   I appologize in advance, this is lengthy, but to get good information I have to give a good full description. After completely rebuilding from the stock short block- camshaft,crank shaft, pistons,and oilpump left unchanged- Reason for rebuild? Engine was over heating leading to both cylnder heads cracking, the block is not cracked as far as I can tell with three oil changes in 3 days showing no water and no subsequent loss of coolant after repair. The reason for over heating? small hidden water pump hose failure, occluded water jackets, and most likely a stuck thermostat. All from manufaturer recommended dex cool induced red-mud (a whole 'nother talk show as my wife would say). I have one last problem, (I might even know the answers to my own questions)but I'm looking for a nod from many minds or a new thought for possible causes. Current engine state description- engine starts immediately idles a little rough (truly "a little") responds great to throttle requests while in park- with only one noise- valve lifters... fairly certain it's not piston slap but honestly it's not as much of a tick as I'd like for that and one piston head top was damaged missing a small piece from the top (not ideal to leave unchanged but believe it or not you cant drop the oil pan on this truck to get to the connecting rod without pulling the engine. There is no removable cross member like the service manual description it's permanent wishbone suspension member. I tryed to save a buck (dumb move) by cleaning the valve lifters in parts cleaner, they were oil soaked before installation and tested with a oil syringe for obstructions (not perfect but they passed oil from one orrifice to the other) new crane lifters are now on the way along with a gasket set...again! Finally to the problem; When I put it in drive... and again only in drive... it hesitates to accelerate- no back fire- no apparent engine stumble just a spongey gas pedal to the floor with little throttle response a sense of lost commpresion. The only sensors etc. NOT replaced are IAC, TPS, MAF,Fuel pressure regulator, injectors and the O2 sensors. I have the $300+ factory gm service manuals and have followed them closely with procedure, order and torque specs. Now... how I think I jacked it up and what I think is wrong. When I flushed the block I noticed all too late that a perfect arch stream of water was flowing directly into the exhaust pipe. Secondly, the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection uses a round doughnut (ball joint type) metal gasket, in order to hold them in place while I hooked up the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold I used indian head gasket sealer on one side of the doughnut. Of course after the initial start the heat caused off-gassing from the gasket sealer through the exhaust. What I think about that? I cooked my O2 sensors- all three and the catlytic converter. Given the current condition and problem presented does this make sense to any one else? I'd rather start there than replace hundreds of dollars of sensors one at a time. Thanks so very much for your time. Replies to this message: tidester (Oct 08, 2007 10:21 pm) bingonut (Oct 24, 2007 12:54 pm)
#96 of 142 Re: 4.3L DIAGNOSIS HELP FAMILY NEEDS 2 CARS [onemarine] by tidester HOST Oct 08, 2007 (10:21 pm)
Replying to: onemarine (Oct 08, 2007 6:55 pm) Have you tried measuring the voltage across the O2 sensors?   tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper Replies to this message: bingonut (Oct 24, 2007 12:54 pm)
#98 of 142 Loss of power going up hills. Chevy Blazer by bingonut Oct 24, 2007 (12:54 pm)
Replying to: tidester (Oct 08, 2007 10:21 pm) In september we were coming back from Ocean city through PA. PA is all hills. When I was driving I noticed that going up the hill seeemed to be a challange for the Blazer, after a few more hills the accereration got worse and to the point that we had to pull of the side of the road. Blazer at that point would just completly shut down. No gas, no power, no engine. Turn off and turn back on and you would be ok for another 60 miles or so and then it would do the same thing. This was a very hot day in the 90's. We changed the belt tentioner thought that was making every thing slip and Blazer has been fine for about 1 month. unitl this weekend when we went on a road trip, more than the 30 miles we usually drive everyday to work, and it was hot this weekened and the Blazer started doing the same thing all over again. Loss of power no acceleration and then total shut down. Help, does any one know of this problem?
#100 of 142 Upper intake manifold removal - '96 Jimmy 4.3L by mwolf9000 Oct 28, 2007 (8:15 am)
I'm trying to remove the upper intake manifold on my '96 Jimmy 4x4 as I appear to have a coolant leak from the lower intake manifold. I've removed the bolts from around the edge of the upper intake manifold and it won't come off. It appears that it's being held down by the two bolts near the center that were holding down the fuel lines. But the top of these two bolts appear to be a male Torx T-15 and I can't find a female T-15 size female socket to remove them with. So ... what do I do?

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