You are here: Forums SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

142 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:09 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, SUV

Messages Page 10 of 15 1 ... 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 ... 15 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

#87 of 142 Pulling module from inside distributor by lynderae Feb 23, 2007 (2:29 pm)
I am trying to pull the module inside the distributor. The problem is when i took the rotor out the module is under something metal. Do I have to remove the whole distributor to remove it or is there something I am missing. Replies to this message: repairdog (Feb 24, 2007 3:51 am)
#88 of 142 Re: Pulling module from inside distributor [lynderae] by repairdog Feb 24, 2007 (3:51 am)
Replying to: lynderae (Feb 23, 2007 2:29 pm) The cam sensor has 2 torque screws that hold it in BUT the dist position only allows 1 spot where the sensor clears that rotating asembly so you can bump the starter till it lines up or remove the dist. This is 96up so if older model and its the ignition module thats a diff story.
#90 of 142 is it true i can diconect the battery and the computer codes will clear ? by thesweetrosslg Aug 23, 2007 (12:04 pm)
Was wondering i know i have read it around here somewhere but not sure i also heard from a friends that if i dicounect the negative batter terminal and leave it unpluged for like 20 minuts it will clear my computer I just replaced the MAF sensor and am wondering if this is true becouse i need to get that Nasty Service Engine Soon Light of thank you   ross.g Replies to this message: ajaks (Sep 28, 2007 8:21 am)
#91 of 142 Re: is it true i can diconect the battery and the computer codes will clear ? [thesweetrosslg] by ajaks Sep 28, 2007 (8:21 am)
Replying to: thesweetrosslg (Aug 23, 2007 12:04 pm) Yep. But don't do it while the engine is running.
#92 of 142 Chevy Blazer Idle Adj by vdragonfly Jul 20, 2007 (6:47 am)
#93 of 142 Chevy Blazer Idle Adj by vdragonfly Jul 20, 2007 (6:47 am)
Does anyone know how to adjust the idle for a 1993 Chevy Blazer 4WD? Replies to this message: onemarine (Oct 08, 2007 6:55 pm) tidester (Oct 08, 2007 10:21 pm) bingonut (Oct 24, 2007 12:54 pm)
#95 of 142 4.3L DIAGNOSIS HELP FAMILY NEEDS 2 CARS by onemarine Oct 08, 2007 (6:55 pm)
Replying to: vdragonfly (Jul 20, 2007 6:47 am) Hello,   I appologize in advance, this is lengthy, but to get good information I have to give a good full description. After completely rebuilding from the stock short block- camshaft,crank shaft, pistons,and oilpump left unchanged- Reason for rebuild? Engine was over heating leading to both cylnder heads cracking, the block is not cracked as far as I can tell with three oil changes in 3 days showing no water and no subsequent loss of coolant after repair. The reason for over heating? small hidden water pump hose failure, occluded water jackets, and most likely a stuck thermostat. All from manufaturer recommended dex cool induced red-mud (a whole 'nother talk show as my wife would say). I have one last problem, (I might even know the answers to my own questions)but I'm looking for a nod from many minds or a new thought for possible causes. Current engine state description- engine starts immediately idles a little rough (truly "a little") responds great to throttle requests while in park- with only one noise- valve lifters... fairly certain it's not piston slap but honestly it's not as much of a tick as I'd like for that and one piston head top was damaged missing a small piece from the top (not ideal to leave unchanged but believe it or not you cant drop the oil pan on this truck to get to the connecting rod without pulling the engine. There is no removable cross member like the service manual description it's permanent wishbone suspension member. I tryed to save a buck (dumb move) by cleaning the valve lifters in parts cleaner, they were oil soaked before installation and tested with a oil syringe for obstructions (not perfect but they passed oil from one orrifice to the other) new crane lifters are now on the way along with a gasket set...again! Finally to the problem; When I put it in drive... and again only in drive... it hesitates to accelerate- no back fire- no apparent engine stumble just a spongey gas pedal to the floor with little throttle response a sense of lost commpresion. The only sensors etc. NOT replaced are IAC, TPS, MAF,Fuel pressure regulator, injectors and the O2 sensors. I have the $300+ factory gm service manuals and have followed them closely with procedure, order and torque specs. Now... how I think I jacked it up and what I think is wrong. When I flushed the block I noticed all too late that a perfect arch stream of water was flowing directly into the exhaust pipe. Secondly, the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection uses a round doughnut (ball joint type) metal gasket, in order to hold them in place while I hooked up the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold I used indian head gasket sealer on one side of the doughnut. Of course after the initial start the heat caused off-gassing from the gasket sealer through the exhaust. What I think about that? I cooked my O2 sensors- all three and the catlytic converter. Given the current condition and problem presented does this make sense to any one else? I'd rather start there than replace hundreds of dollars of sensors one at a time. Thanks so very much for your time. Replies to this message: tidester (Oct 08, 2007 10:21 pm) bingonut (Oct 24, 2007 12:54 pm)

Messages Page 10 of 15 1 ... 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 ... 15 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

You are here: Forums SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems