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Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

142 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:09 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, SUV


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#61 of 142
Re: 4.3 engine and tranny swap from 2.8 in 86 s10 blazer [poof1] by repairdog
Oct 27, 2006 (1:59 am)
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Replying to: poof1 (Oct 26, 2006 6:21 pm)

Depending on what year 4.3 and trans you will need the computer and wiring to make it work. The 4L60 is electronically shifted and the 4.3 and many sensors including the 3 exhaust O2 ones all are required or it will run like crap if at all. Why not go for a real engine and put a 350 V8 in with a 700R4 trans - can be done but not in a smog check/inspection state so check state laws first. As to the 20 year old Blazer have to ask why do you want the headache cause you can pick up a 96up with the newer injection (98up added rear discs and better airbags) for pretty cheap with higher mileage and rebuild them and its way easier. For real 4wd get the older solid front axle full size Blazer with the 350 and go from there - so many parts out there and more room to work on. You can beat the crap out of those - wish I had my 89 Suburban back but rust caught up.
#62 of 142
Re: 4.3 engine and tranny swap from 2.8 in 86 s10 blazer [repairdog] by poof1
Oct 27, 2006 (2:34 am)
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Replying to: repairdog (Oct 27, 2006 1:59 am)

Luck has it I have everything, puter, wiring, sensors, saved the 350/700r4 for my 88 3/4 ton, ( it's a 40 over stroker) but this old S 10 has a soft spot in this girls heart. Any way the body has no cancer and is in really good shape.
#63 of 142
Re: 4.3 engine and tranny swap from 2.8 in 86 s10 blazer [poof1] by rlendabarker
Jul 02, 2007 (12:00 pm)
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Replying to: poof1 (Oct 27, 2006 2:34 am)

I did a similar swap into a 97 4x4 blazer and then drove it about 150,000 miles with no trouble the biggest hassle I had was integrating the original dash cluster if I were going to do it again I would find a later cluster and harness/ecm from a 4.3 blazer in a boneyard and it will just be a plug and play situation. Performance was great and it passed emissions in Illinois. Sadly rust took ove.Good luck
#65 of 142
Vac Line problem by spencer03
Apr 01, 2007 (11:45 am)
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We just bought a 96 Blazer... The 4 wheel drive is not working... It sounds like it is trying to click in but doesnt... There are 3 Vac lines on the transfer case that are not hooked up... I don't know where these go.... Can anybody help
#66 of 142
Re: Vac Line problem [spencer03] by repairdog
Apr 01, 2007 (12:55 pm)
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Replying to: spencer03 (Apr 01, 2007 11:45 am)

I hope they are still hooked to the formed rubber connector that snaps over the transfer case 3 port switch - if so on the NP233 3 button case on the drivers side halfway down thats the 3 port switch - clip it back on it only goes on one way with the keyed post. One is the vac from the engine, one is the line to the front actuator, the third is a vent line to the front act and transfer case. If the 3 port switch is bad its $15 Motormite #49315 at most auto stores and takes a 7/8" box end to replace. If all lines separated and no rubber connector then reply and I'll explain what goes to what.
#67 of 142
Re: Vac Line problem [repairdog] by spencer03
Apr 01, 2007 (3:25 pm)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 01, 2007 12:55 pm)

There is no Vac coming from box on intake... Does it come from Transfer case?? Does the Vac come from another place... I cant seem to find vac anywhere... The Lines are connected to the transfer case with the 3 port connector then they go to the front of transmission and then they got burned.... So I don't know where to go from there... Thank You.....
#68 of 142
Re: Vac Line problem [spencer03] by repairdog
Apr 02, 2007 (3:14 am)
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Replying to: spencer03 (Apr 01, 2007 3:25 pm)

OK here we go.
1. Vac comes from underhood drivers side. Follow the vac line 5/32" from by the valve cover PCV over to the drivers side and replace rotted lines (all are) and to a vac reservior can in the fender (yes you can feel to put a new line on) and one Ts off to run down to the 3 port and the final plastic at the end is for the heater controls.
2. On the 3 port rubber connector if you look inside it you will see 3 holes/lines and a keyed position hole. With the keyed hole at the bottom of your view there are 2 lines above one on left is the VENT line one on right the VAC line from the engine. Then the third line at the peak of the triangle is to the front ACTUATOR line.
3. Straight lines from the vac and to the actuator. But that vent line is T to a transfer case vent line and then should run up the transmission dip stick secured by a tie and has a vent cap on it.
4. Another check is to look at the 3 port switch which then has 3 plastic line tubes/connectore and a fixed plastic pole as the keyed position (of the rubber to line up). Looking down on the top of this 3 port switch the vac is on the left, the vent on the right, and the top of the triangle line is the actuator.
Thats it - take your time and it should work. I would change that switch anyway while under there so if any problems rules that out up front.
#70 of 142
98 Blazer steady speed it Misfires by doc_john_13
Apr 30, 2006 (2:17 pm)
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Hello,
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The Idle is fine, the acceleration is fine.
But when you get it up to a steady speed it Misfires.
I have changed spark plugs, and plug wires. Replaced the fuel filter.
Ran injector cleaner time and time again.
 
I don't know what else to do. Can you PLEASE help me?
thank's
John

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