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Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

140 messages, Last post on Aug 25, 2009 at 11:27 AM
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My car wont start. It turns over but thats it. Not the battery as I just replaced it and like I said it turns over. I was snowed in for 10 days and 2 days ago tried to get out-my car was fine and it started but ice and snow was too thick so all it did was spin the tires but I think it affected the engine because e tried for about an hour and only got 4ft!!!!!! The car was missing alot about 2 weeks ago and suddenly stopped. I have been told it is the fuel filter or pump??? I am new here and will have to get it towed in the morning but also dont want to get taken advantage of. Any ideas?? |
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In March, I had to change my radiator. It's been running fine until a couple of weeks ago. I parked my blazer and notice water running from under the car. It was coming out just in front of the oil pan. It didn't overheat or anything. I check the fluid and noticed that it wasn't any antifreeze which I purchase and gave to the shop but water. Also it look like stop leak was still in the radiator. I figured that the stop leak was in the motor from the bad radiators leak before I bought the vehical. But I can't find the leak. I can smell it when I drive for awhile and the temp goes just to the 200 degree range but doesn't overheat and now my check engine light is on. There isn't any water in the oil but I did notice water in the exhaust and it was 91 degrees today. Is there anywhere else it could be leaking at?
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Replying to: uniqorn2009 (May 28, 2009 6:37 pm) What code has been set? Autozone will check for you.
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It is likely the water pump leaking. The water pump has a hole in the casting under the impeller shaft which will leak if a water pump bearing seal fails. That indicates that the wtaer pump needs to be replaced. Another more common source of a leak is the thermostat housing to intake manifold gasket. Sometimes they leak a little after they have been replaced until the gasket swells and seals. Especially if the gasket was installed wihout any Permatex High Tack sealer or it was tightened incorrectly or not tightened enough. Many car owners or shop technicians will not tighten those enough after the thermostat has been replaced and the two thermostat housing bolts will need to be snugged up a little to stop a coolant leak. The aluminum thermostat housings are easy to break if they are overtightened. I wish shop technicians were as cautious with oil pan drain plugs. Other common sources of coolant leaks from the front ot the engine are: 1.) Upper radiator hose to thermostat housing connection. 2.) Lower radiator hose to water pump connection. 3.) Heater hose connections to the water pump and intake manifold. .
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Replying to: jlflemmons (May 28, 2009 7:37 pm) Thanks for your help |
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Replying to: duntov (May 29, 2009 3:37 am) Thanks but it more than likely a intake manifold problem
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Replying to: duntov (May 29, 2009 3:37 am) My bets are still on the water pump. |
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Replying to: uniqorn2009 (May 29, 2009 12:57 pm) |
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| I have heard that you should only use dex-cool in the 4.3 engines, yet some mechanics suggest flushing the system and using a 50/50 mix of atifreeze because of gasket eating problems with dex-cool. Is this true? | |
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There was a class action law suit pending against GM concernng people who used Dex-Cool anti-freeze which allegedly ruined their engines. Sadowski/Bertino vs General Motors Corp. The class action suit has settled and the suit is closed. The claims were affected by the GM Chapter 11 bankruptcy. ( www.dexcoolsettlement.com ) Why risk using Dex-Cool when the green stuff is a tried and true antifreeze when used as instructed?
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