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Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, Chevrolet Suburban, SUV
#87 of 120 GM Design Flaw in Transfer Case
Apr 18, 2011 (1:55 pm)
Here is a list of numbers and documents that may help you out. Just do a Google search. If you want to know more about my experience with our 2005 Suburban that had a mere 60K on it when I had to replace the entire transfer case, my email address is ebpsi2000yahoo.com
Reader's Digest version: Heard a rattle up front, and could not figure out what it was. This happened for about a month, and then my transfer case started to neutralize on it's own. Took it to a local transmission shop here in Tucson, and they could not figure out what was wrong. Everything was MECHANICALLY perfect with the transfer case. Took it to O'Rielly Chevrolet here in Tucson, they tore my transfer case apart, and told me that I had the WRONG PARTS in my transfer case. Excuse me? How the hell could I have the wrong parts in my transfer case? I even have this DOCUMENTED!!! Needless to say, I ended up paying $2500+ for a brand new transfer case.
Fast forward a couple of weeks later, and I came across the documents below. Turns out the rattle that I heard was from the transfer case main shaft and the inner clutch hub assembly. The early designs of our transfer case came with a "slip fit" design for these two parts. The parts were rattling, CAUSING ENCODER MOTOR FAILURE! The encoder motor failed, causing my transfer case to neutralize itself when simply driving down the road in 2wd.
The following documents go on to explain how the Chevrolet techs are to replace the two parts with "the inner clutch hub and shaft, which will have a PRESS FIT design and eliminate the rattle condition."
Common sense tells me that the tech that tore apart my transfer case at O'Rielly's looked at my ORIGINAL SLIP FIT clutch hub and shaft, compared it to pictures/documents of the newer PRESS FIT clutch hub and shaft, and deduced that I had the wrong parts in my transfer case, and thus that must be the problem. All along, turns out that it was because of a DESIGN FLAW in the original transfer case that caused the encoder motor to fail, causing neutralization of the transfer case, costing me over $2500.
I got nowhere with the dealership, nowhere with GM Customer Care (yes, I do have my GM Incident Number - let's see if anyone from GM Customer Care "cares"), and I promise to God that this will be the last GM product I EVER BUY.
Also search on Google for: "DTC C0327 #PIP3480K"
NHTSA Item Number : 10017299
NHTSA Item Number: 10018926
NHTSA Item Number: 10018607
Service Bulletin Number : 3665
Service Bulletin Number: 3480A
Document ID: 1884845
#88 of 120 transfercase problems
Sep 01, 2011 (8:52 pm)
I have a 98 tahoe and the 4wd service light came on. when i was on my way home and it shifted itself into neutral. i did the ignition thing and disconnected the battery. All the fuses are good. after i disconnected the battery it shifted into 4lo and is now stuck in 4lo. i dont want to spend money throwing a bunch of new parts at it. any help will be appricated
#89 of 120 Re: transfercase problems [blacksheep77]
Sep 02, 2011 (4:35 am)
Sadly gm does not have a way to quickly diagnose the problem has been my experience. Read my previous summary post. I would replace the transmission switch on the transmission and the motor on the front that engages the front axle for 4 wheel drive. A lot of time and pain can be spent trying to diagnose this problem. There is a previous post that explains how the engaging mechanism works. This is a small $ to pay to insure you don't destroy the transmission.
#90 of 120 Lights aren't on
Nov 05, 2011 (10:56 am)
I have a 99 Tahoe LT, sometimes the four wheel drive indicator lights are on and sometimes they are not. If they are on and I try to engage the four wheel drive the lights just shut off. Any suggestions?
#91 of 120 1998 chevy tahoe blown fuses
Nov 30, 2011 (11:36 am)
keep blowing fuses for the transfer case fuse #2 in block of fuses on drivers side of dash. replaced fuse and was fine for awhile as long as I was in 2wd but when trying to switch to 4wd it would blow. replaced the switch cluster in the dash for the push button 4wd and went to try engaging 4wd and it blew again and now everytime I go to put a new fuse in it blows instantly. I unplugged the front actuator and tried replacing the fuse and it still blew instantly so I dont think its the actuator. Not sure what to try next? Im thinking Transfer Case Vacuum Switch? Any other thoughts?
#92 of 120 Re: Lights aren't on [mrkroeger]
Nov 30, 2011 (11:40 am)
does everything else still work fine? it still switched into 4wd and everything? if everything else works fine it could just be the cluster for the push button 4wd. just replaced mine for a 98 tahoe was $55 for the switches and then very simple to swap out. whole assembly just pops out with a flat head screw driver and then 2 plugs on the back to unplug and plug into new assembly and pop back into dash.
#93 of 120 Re: 1998 chevy tahoe blown fuses [boelter21]
Dec 01, 2011 (3:43 pm)
When replacing your switches did yours have the 4 button system or three? If you have the 4 button system (4wd auto being the 4th) where did you find the switches for $55? Thanks Troy
#94 of 120 Re: 1998 chevy tahoe blown fuses [troyrn]
Dec 02, 2011 (4:39 am)
Buddy who works at a GM dealership got it for me for that price with his discount. think it was around $70 without discount. This is for the 4 button system with 4wd auto. part #19168765 if you need it. Kinda got lucky with them having 1 in stock.
#95 of 120 still problems
Dec 02, 2011 (4:44 am)
replaced the front acuator also now and still blowing fuses whenever I try to swith into 4 hi or lo as soon as I touch the button? Possibly a short in the wiring? any other thoughts?
#96 of 120 Re: still problems [boelter21]
Dec 07, 2011 (12:21 pm)
Being an electrician for 40 years, I would definately say you have a direct short some where. Try and disconnect each part one at a time and meter to ground to find the problem. The side sliding door on my mini van quit working, and luckily I noticed the sparks coming from the traveling wire harness at the bottom of the door.....the insulation they used just deteriated.