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Sedans Volkswagen Jetta VW Jetta Tires and Wheels
27 messages, Last post on May 28, 2009 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: vantive (Apr 07, 2009 9:17 am) This two- or three-digit number is the tire's load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You may find this information in your owner's manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law http://www.safercar.gov/portal/site/safercar/menuitem.13dd5c887c7e1358fefe0a2f35- a67789/?vgnextoid=8e1c4507fe526110VgnVCM1000002fd17898RCRD BTW, I thought the Jetta had a full size spare. If so you could switch tires so that the odd one is the spare. |
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Replying to: vantive (Apr 07, 2009 9:17 am) The number is the load index--maximum vertical load 90 is 600 kg and 91 is 615 kg. I think the "H" is the speed rating of the tire--130 mph maximum. See http://www.dualport.com/bustech/load_tires.html "The speed rating indicates the maximum speed (miles per hour) the tire is rated under normal conditions. The ratings are as follows: M — 81 N — 87 P — 93 Q — 100 R — 106 S — 112 T — 118 H — 130 V — 149 W — 168 Y — 186" |
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I just joined this forum, looking for some help. I have a 03 Jetta GLI (95k miles) and I've had a lot of problems with the inside of the front tires wearing much faster. With the current set of tires, I had a front end alignments done and had it re-checked in 6 months. They told me it was still in spec, but he indicated he had seen problems with Jettas. The inside 1.5 inches of tread are completely gone, yet there is 1/4 inch of tread on the rest of the tire. Does anyone know if there is a generic problem maintaining proper alignment or if there is something in the suspension that needs to be replaced to prevent this? Thanks. Bob
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Replying to: xbob360 (May 20, 2009 7:39 pm)  100,000 miles which it did not need. two reasons: 1. a GTG special 2. I was intensely curious as to the EXACT specifications. . Upshot 100,000 miles, it did NOT need the alignment as the vendor offering the "special price said it only changed ever so slightly from "dead bang on" due to normal settling. I did not want to stiff him since it takes time to prepare the car for the procedure. While on the alignment rack, it was adjusted back to "dead bang on". The car was routinely run in higher speed touring (close to xxx for hours) at a time and commutes on the 2nd worse roads and commutes in the NATION, behind LA, CA , 25,000 miles per year Suspension is still OEM stock. Tires were/are rotated at oem recommended intervals 10,000 miles (5 tire cross rotation). Tire pressures is 38-36 psi fronts with 38-34 psi rears. I run that range as I can ignore tire reading for 2 months at a time (normal loss of 1# per mo ). After app 6,000 miles on the new Toyo TPT's, it appears wear is similar to the oe GY LS-H's.
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Replying to: ruking1 (May 21, 2009 6:24 am)
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Replying to: jim314 (May 21, 2009 11:41 am) Almost all (VW gen IV) owners vilified the GY LS-H's. Among other issues, they last TOPS, 50,000 miles. I did have to have them rebalanced app 70,000 miles ? (not sure without the records) as I experienced some front end shimmie highway speeds. After some research, I did purchase the Toyo TPT's 40-45k miles. I (as you can imagine) proceded to WAIT 72,300 miles- 67,300 miles. I actually pulled the GY LS-H's early, as the Toyo's by default were working well into the "6 year aged rubber" issue. I did buy 3 right sides. (5 TPT's as they are "uni directional ), as there is a little acknowledged tire related "inference". The Bentley's makes note ( the 2003 gen IV) that the front passenger side's: brake pads, rotors, struts, strut hardware and bearings wear faster and to inspect accordingly. By "INFERENCE" only, greater/faster right side tire wear. (It is a design torque steer quirk) I read very early on, the differences can have as much as 1/32 in greater tire wear on the right side WITH oem recommended 4 tire front to rear and vice versa rotations. |
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| I need to replace my rims on a 2006 jetta TDI. If I look for OEM rims what years are compatable in regards to lug bolt spacing and offset? | |
I own a 2009 Jetta SEL with 8000 mi that came with continental 225/45/R17 tires, so far i had to replace three of them one from a blowout and two others that developed bubbles on the side wall. Driving in the streets of NYC with huge potholes can be treacherous. My question is can i replace the original oem tires with a thicker one 225/50/R17 or 225/55/R17 - thanks
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Replying to: kator (May 28, 2009 11:05 am) Be sure the existing tires are inflated to the highest pressure recommended by VW for the Jetta SEL with the 17" wheels. Given your driving conditions you might consider inflating the tires to higher than the recommendation on the tire sticker, say midway between the vehicle recommendation and the tire limit. So inflate to 40 psi if the vehicle recommendation is 36 psi and the tire maximum is 44 psi. The course of action with the least risk of unexpected problems is to buy a more durable tire in the OE size--225/45-17. If you wanted to go to a higher profile tire, I think you would have to go to 16 inch wheels, and mount say 205/55-16 or 215/55-16 ( which have almost the same overall diameter at the tread as the OE 225/45-17). According to Edmunds, 205/55-16 is OE on the Jetta S. But you would have to find out from VW whether the Jetta SEL would accept 16" wheels. It could be that the brake and suspension components of the SEL are larger than those in the lower trim level Jettas that come with 16" wheels OE, and would not fit inside the 16" wheels. The higher profile tires in 17" that you are considering would have a larger overall diameter at the tread and at the very least would cause the speedo and odo to be inaccurate. The actual speed of travel with the 225/50 and the 225/55 would be higher than the indicated speed by 3.6% and 7.1%, respectively. But more of a problem you probably would get contact of the tires with the wheel wells, frame or suspension. The rubbing might only occur near steering lock and if so would increase the turning radius, reducing maneuvering capability in tight situations like parking lots and making U-turns. Overall diameters at tread of these tires are shown below. The usual recommendation is when changing sizes the overall dia of the new tire should be within 2% of the size specified by the manufacturer. Dia 225/45-17 = (225 mm)/(25.4 mm/in) x 0.45 x 2 + 17 = 25.0 in (24.97 to 4 figs) Dia 215/50-17 = 215/25.4 x 0.50 x 2 + 17 = 25.5 in (25.46 to 4 figs) Dia 205/50-17 = 205/25.4 x 0.50 x 2 + 17 = 25.1 in (25.07 to 4 figs) Dia 225/50-17 = 225/25.4 x 0.50 x 2 + 17 = 25.9 in (25.86 to 4 figs) Dia 225/55-17 = 225/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 17 = 26.7 in (26.74 to 4 figs) Dia 225/55-16 = 225/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 16 = 25.7 in (25.74 to 4 figs) Dia 215/55-16 = 215/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 16 = 25.3 in (25.31 to 4 figs) Dia 205/55-16 = 205/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 16 = 24.9 in (24.88 to 4 figs)
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Replying to: jim314 (May 28, 2009 11:56 am) "For cars and vans, staying within a 3% diameter change is desirable. Pick-ups and sport utility vehicles (SUVs) are usually engineered to handle up to a 15% oversize tire. Most tire dimensions can be calculated. For more information review the Tire Tech article, "Calculating Tire Dimensions." While at first a 3% diameter increase or reduction in tire diameter may sound very limiting, in most cases it allows approximately a 3/4" diameter change." |
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