Last post on Oct 21, 2013 at 12:19 PM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue
What is this discussion about?
Buick Park Avenue, Electrical, Sedan
#89 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [bowfan]
Jan 06, 2010 (8:45 am)
My 2000 Park Avenue is having what sounds like the same problem. It does not even turn over when turning the key. When it resets itself, it starts fine and will do so for days or weeks at a time. The machanic could not find a problem because it would not replicate the issue when at the shop. He thought it may be a nuetral switch in the tranny. Took it to the transmission shop where, of course, it would not fail. I am continuing to drive it until the failure is more consistant. Any ideas?
#90 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [sharmon708]
Jan 06, 2010 (3:04 pm)
Okay, here's what happened with my mother's 2000 Park Avenue. She was having problems with it intermittently "not starting". Her dealer could not fix it after several tries. After the dealer closed, another mechanic tried fixing it and failed, Then AAA towing recommended Al (at Al's Family Repair in Ocala Florida) took a stab at it. He first diagnosed a weak fuel pump. The fuel pump was replaced and it was okay for a week or so until it happened again. This time he came over to the house, BLESS HIS HEART, and diagnosed it while it was not starting...FINALLY. He "renewed the crank" sensor whatever that means and it has been starting for a couple of months without fail. I hope this helps your mechanic! Let me know!
#91 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [jchird]
Jan 06, 2010 (3:09 pm)
In jchird's case the car was cranking, but wouldn't fire.
In sharmon708's case the car is NOT turning the motor over due to the security system protecting from nonauthorized keys.
One question, was more than one key in the car near the steering column at the time it wouldn't start? I.E., one key in pocket or hand and the other in the ignition? I've experienced this with our Cobalt. Two key transponders reacting when the key is inserted confuses the computer.
#92 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [imidazol97]
Jan 07, 2010 (4:39 am)
No other transponder was in the car at the time. I assume you are talking about the keyless remote. The key itself does not have the security component built into the key as many other GM products do. My other car is a Buick Regal and it does have such a key. I do not carry the Regal key on my set. The mechanic was thinking that is was related to the security system and kept asking me if the security light was flashing at the time it would not start. The light comes on just as the other dash lights do but it not flashing. What else should I be considering if it is a security issue? How does it get reset?
#93 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [sharmon708]
Jan 07, 2010 (5:18 am)
>The key itself does not have the security component built into the key as many other GM products do.
The key does not have the transponder in the head of the key. You're telling me then it has the black chip in the neck of the key that gets touched by two contacts at the entrance to the lock cylinder when the key is put in all the way. I was wrong in thinking it had the transponders...
If it had the black chip with metal contacts on both sides that's the VATS system. The tiny wires in the steering column connect to the connector at the base of the steering column. Tilting the wheel breaks the tiny threads of wires in the wires and changes their resistance as more of the threads in each wire break. Also the contacts in the lock cylinder may be dirty or worn back and making bad or poor contact.
When you turn the key ON the security light should come on for about 5 seconds as the theft deterrent module reads the resistance in the circuit to the key. If that resistance is right, the security light goes off. If not, it should start flashing and flash for three minutes as the injectors and starter are locked out.
Then after 3 minutes the module is ready to read another key chip.
There are other problems some people have had with various parts of the car security such as trunk lock sensors on H-bodies.
If your problem is VATS, the easiest fix is to find the two tiny wires at the bottom of the steering column (they're usually inside a larger plastic housing that looks like a single wire itself) and jump them with a resistor pack the same resistance as the key chip (within 10%). Theft alarm installers have resistors that they get already made to the 15 resistances used by GM. They might be an easy way to have the resistor jumper installed for a moderate price even ifyou don't buy an alarm system from them!!!
Clean the key contacts with a pencil eraser. Use another key if it works better. Dip the key into alcohol and insert quickly into the lock cylinder to try to clean the contacts that rub the black chip.
If it is the VATS system like on the leSabre and Bonnevilles, the module can fail in 4 ways. One is if it decides it's getting wrong readings for some reason and it goes into bypass mode where it just lets the car start every time. Mine on my 98 leSabre did that. Occasionally the security light would come on while driving and then go off. Occasionally the key chips didn't read right on the first turn of the key. But instead of locking out 3 minutes every time, it would read the key again on removal and reinsertion and usually start. Eventually the system quit turning on the security light or the bulb burned out. I don't know which. That's 2 years ago.
Good luck. http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
Search for VATS on google. (vehicle anti theft system)
#94 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [imidazol97]
Jan 07, 2010 (6:06 pm)
Imidazol97, that's a very nice writeup on the VATS (I think it's also called the PassKey2 system). I had a friend with a '94 BPA that failed several times while the dealer mechanic just kept soldering up and repairing the wires. I'm sure a 2000 would have the PK3 system, which as you said has the transponder device in the rubber head of the key.
Sharmon708, the key transponder is not the same as the keyless remote.
Unfortunately I can't offer any real help to you. I had one car a long time ago, that if you drove it for a long drive would not turn the engine over until it had cooled down a while. I always guessed that the starter was getting too hot as I thought it was by the exhaust pipe, but I can't say with authority.
I've not heard of a NSS failure on these cars, although I've seen it on Jeep Cherokees.
*** If you suspect this is your problem, one way you could isolate it would be to wait until it fails again and then put the transmission in neutral and try to turn it over. They will start in either neutral or park, by design. On the Cherokee NSSwitches that I've seen, the copper contacts in the area of the 'park' selection would get dirty or gummed up while the neutral was usually still in good shape. You could test them by one of two methods, either attempting to start in neutral, or pulling the relay for the starter and jumper'ing it to bypass the NSS. I'd recommend a try in neutral to keep it simple.
If your mechanic has looked at it, I would guess he has eliminated the simple stuff like loose battery cables.
Hope you find it soon, and please write back if you do, so that others may benefit from your experience.
#95 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [imidazol97]
Jan 08, 2010 (5:45 am)
The key itself for the Park Avenue does not have any visible black chips built into the neck of the key, it is just a plain key. My 2001 Regal does have such a system but is currently having no issues. All of the talk of the security system has started me to try changing to the other spare key which has hardly been used. I was thinking that perhaps the key is getting somewhat worn and my be considered a invalid key. The original auto mechanic originally suspected a problem with the security system.
When the problem occurs, the security light is not flashing. Messing with the shifter sometimes seems to reset the problem but it is inconsistant. Removing the key and re-inserting has sometimes corrected it also. The car has 84,000 miles on it and this is the most significant problem that I have had in the 60,000 plus miles that I have owned it. So far, the car has not had the problem in a week an a half.
#96 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [sharmon708]
Jan 08, 2010 (5:48 am)
Your post is titled, "2000 Buick Regal NO START." ???
#97 of 141 97 Park Avenue Ultra won't turn over
Mar 18, 2010 (4:45 pm)
Here is what happened i was sitting at a stop light and it just died.. So I put it in park and tried to start it but it won't even turn over. So i thought i lost battery connection but the head lights, horn, wipers, radio, and the power seats were still working . So I checked every fuse in the fuse box under the hood. All were ok. So i checked the one located under the back seat and checked most of them and they were good. I bought a used ECM but have not got it programmed yet. I talked to a guy at my work and he said to check to see if i even have power going to the fuse box that is under the hood. My car has a lot of miles which i put a bunch on it my self and have changed a lot of things but its a solid car so it worth it. motor,trany so far . the car its self has 270,000 miles. but i want to get to 300,000
Thanks for your time!!
#98 of 141 Re: 97 Park Avenue Ultra won't turn over [jonsbuell]
Mar 18, 2010 (5:43 pm)
If the battery under the hood has multiple connectors on the red positive terminal, those can have corrosion between the connectors. Turn off the heater control with the key ON, then turn the key OFF and disconnect the negative and then the positives. Clean between them. Cut back the plastic covering if you need to.
At that mileage I would guess crankshaft position sensor when it died, but when it wouldn't turn over, that indicates more. Because of the double positives, power may still go to part of the car and not others.
However, because it died and then wouldn't even crank, that might point to the cables.
You can test with a meter at the small terminal on the solenoid, while someone turns the key ON and CRANK to see if power is getting to the solenoid to active it and the starter.
Be careful with live positive wires. But The real test would be to get under the car and use a jumper to see if the thing cranks when you apply power directly to the solenoid small terminal that the key actually applies power to if all the parts are working in between. Then if that doesn't work, apply power to the positive terminal on the solenoid, the big one, and expect a spark. If it cranks then, you know it's a connection or the solenoid.