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Sedans Buick Park Avenue Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Problems
83 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:32 AM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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While I agree $118 sounds insanely high for shipping, it also sounds like your site (gmpartsclub) is making up the difference in item price??? Am I missing something?  Dash control unit, park avenue, main control 97-04 MSRP $1,077.32 Your Price $646.39 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Replying to: bowfan (Oct 19, 2009 6:41 pm) Any ideas? I have seen this question posted a number of times in the BPA Maint. and Repair forum, but no one seemed to have the answer. I hope you can help. |
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just got home from Buick dealer. had unit repl. for $700. new part warr. 12/12,+sales tax and $80. labor.when, when i closely examined invoice at home i see thety o/charged for the unit by $50. they quoted last wk,, $700. and no shipping charges. will be calling them tomorrow.... trip home (95) miles i notice warm to hot air on passenger side cool ondrivers' side i not sure i understand the system (dual climate control) will have toread manual.....but my next issue will be the PA. fuel gauge --when level gets to QT. tank if your accelate fast the needle will pop up to FULL, and slowly go back down has anyone had tjhis issue? I hope i can work out these bugs love the vehicle is still new at 76k! |
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Replying to: chrisptown1 (Oct 22, 2009 4:07 pm) As you will see, my previous post described the exact same problem you are having. The hot on one side and cold on the other doesn't seem to have any explanation related to the controls settings. My guess is that there is some flap that is not working properly, however it seems a number of people have the same issue. I saw this same question posted a number of times on the repair and maintenance forum (with no answers posted), and the eBay link to the place that rebuilds climate controls stated on his eBay listing that he was aware of the same problem (hot on one side/cold on other) and that replacing the climate controls would not fix it. Apparently, lots of us have the trouble and I have yet to find the answer. I think I will rip into the dash myself the first long weekend I have and see if I can find something. If you were not having this problem before the CC unit was replaced, I would promptly return to the dealer and explain that they need to fix it. Maybe it is a weak part that gets easily broken or misplaced from removing the entire dash?? I would make it their problem if it is a new problem to your car. I hope someone has our answer. I will post again if I find something. Good luck!
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Replying to: chrisptown1 (Oct 22, 2009 4:07 pm) My best guess on the bouncing fuel gauge needle is the sender unit is going bad. There were a few years that the senders seem to have been built to insufficent standards. But the problem is not limited to PAs. Our '98 Jeep fuel sender was built substandard too and would make you think you had 1/4 tank when it was bone dry. ( Surprise!  ) Other models too, not limited to our models. Some vehicles model years have a safety recall on these items. You shouldn't run out of gas in traffic when the gauge says you've got plenty of gas, hence safety recall... First, I'd recommend you contact your dealer and ask if there are any recalls that need action on your car. And ask if any have already been performed. I'd guess they should have told you of any needs while you were in the shop, but just to make sure I'd ask. If you were a DIY'r, I tell you how you could fix the bad sender for about $30, but its a more difficult repair than the climate control. I'd guess a dealer repair will probably set you back another $500-700. That's just a guess. gmpartsdirect says it's a $225/$117 part, but that's just for the sender (and doesn't include any crazy shipping costs). Sometimes the dealer will want to replace the entire pump & sender assembly as a whole. At MSRP, that would be almost $600 - $800 for parts alone! About your passenger side temp control slide: Did you use it before replacing your climate control, and was it working then? Please do check your owner's manual on the use of it  If you don't see any temp difference when you use it, it is possible the dealer didn't reconnect if properly, or a wire broke or came loose. Like Ramzoni said, if it was working before and not working after, I'd say the dealer needs to repair it at no cost. Sometimes the mechanics at a dealership are experienced, sometimes they are working as part a school program. Let us know what you decide and how it goes! 
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Replying to: chrisptown1 (Oct 22, 2009 4:07 pm) Repair fuel gauge senderon how to repair the sliders by replacing only the contacts using Aurora parts which were available separately. Also in watching the video you see how easy it is to do some repairs--if your PA has the trunk access hole rather than needing to drop the tank to access the fuel gauge sender. Some gauge have had a corrosion problem due to sulfur in fuels. A few additives claim to help that problem; Techron by Chevron is one. It's on the shelf at Meijers, Advance Auto, Pepboys, different prices and two different sizes, 12 oz for 12 gallons and 20 ox for 20 gallons. You want the fuel system cleaner rather than the injector cleaner. I would try that. Essentially the contacts slide and change the resistance. That resistance is read by the gauge. If there's corrosion on the slide (or wear so contact isn't made) the resistance changes drastically. In your case I would guess that high resistance is read at high float and therefore with poor contact your gauge is getting a reading for full tank. Then when contact is made again, the gauge slowly goes back to the correct reading. Having someone else do the repair is probably expensive. I myself would put up with a lot silly gauge reading movement as long as it was reading at times so I was sure I had a certain level of fuel. |
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Replying to: ramzoni (Oct 22, 2009 7:40 pm) On newer ones the actuators are easily accessed (relatively) and replaced. So take off the cover panel, and spend some time upside down moving controls with the key ON and seeing which control moves which actuator. On older ones the links may have come unsnapped or the actuator gears may be broken inside or slipping. |
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Replying to: bowfan (Oct 24, 2009 5:46 am) |
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Replying to: bowfan (Oct 10, 2009 8:39 pm) |
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