Last post on Oct 21, 2013 at 12:19 PM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue
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Buick Park Avenue, Electrical, Sedan
#18 of 141 Re: Computer Chip/ Electrical Issue? [angiebyrd189]
Oct 19, 2008 (6:03 am)
I have not worked on 97 ParkAvenue but assuming it's setup somewhat like my 03 leSabre, there are different computer boxes that control different parts of the car.
First you need to check every fuse with a continuity tester. They can look okay but be blown. I am assuming you have a fuse block under the hood and one under the rear seat with the battery.
Also tighten grounds on the fuse block under the rear seat. Check the owner's manual to see if there are fuses in another location.
My opinion is it's likely a fuse or wire connection that burned.
I'd look for a factory service manual from Helminc.com for the car if you want to try to see what boxes control those items. The factory service manuals sometimes are for sale on eBay by searching for service manual and 1997 buick or use words Park Avenue instead of buick. Check carefully for ones offered to be sure you get all two or three books. Compare pictures of ones offered. You want the ones from Helm, which are the ones you get if you order from the page in the glove box owners manual that came with the car. Original price is around $135. They are available at the website--that may include shipping.
#19 of 141 dash problems
Feb 03, 2009 (1:50 pm)
I have a 99 ultra. The series of buttons to the left of the gage cluster do not respond. Trip, engine etc. I did not get an owners manual but I assume theree is no trick to making these buttons function? any ideas? thanx
#20 of 141 2000 Buick Regal NO START
Feb 05, 2009 (9:51 am)
Buick Regal NO START electricial problem,Car stoped running. All lights flash,buzzers buzz,no start. After 10 min car started, ran for 1 min now wont turn over and all lights on dash flash and buzz. PLEASE ANY HELP.
#21 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [pscherer]
Feb 05, 2009 (7:22 pm)
Without hands on examination of your car, my first guess would be a failure of your upper intake manifold plenum. This is assuming you have the Series 2 3800 engine, non-supercharged model. When mine failed, symptoms sounded like yours.
Do you have any coolant in the plastic antifreeze recovery tank on the fender? If no, this points to a leak somewhere in the cooling system.
Are you your own mechanic?
If yes, pull all your spark plugs and then watch the engine while someone attempts to turn it over. When you pull the plugs, you may find some cylinders full of fluid which will start to spill out. If it turns over and is full of fluid, it will spray anyone standing in front.
If this is your failure, what happens is engine coolant (antifreeze & water) will flow into your lower intake manifold (thru a crack in the upper plenum) and from there down into your cylinders. Air and fuel vapor will compress in a healthy engine. Water & antifreeze won't. This causes a condition called hydrolock. In a worst case scenario, it could cause expensive engine repair or replacement as piston rods and parts get bent or broken. But it is a common problem, and easily fixed for the do-it-yourselfer. I have never personally seen any parts bend or break.
With the engine locks up, the starter seems to get jammed up, hence the flashing dash lights as it tries to draw a huge electrical load on your system but is unable to turn the engine over. I've had to pull the starter and put it back in to free mine up.
This is just my wild guess based upon your brief description. It may be something simple like a bad starter or battery. Or something simpler.
If you are your own mechanic, you can fix it for less than $150 in half a day. Plus oil and coolant change.
Pull the plugs and let us know how it goes.
If you are not your own mechanic, how well do you know your mechanic?
#22 of 141 Re: 1978 Park Avenue turn signals and shift indicator gage [mikuh]
Feb 06, 2009 (8:06 am)
Since I received no response to my post, I decided to go it alone. I was able to purchase a new turn signal switch thru ebay that solved all my electrical problems. The plastic insulator that sits on top of the steering wheel nut and insulates the large horn contact spring, attached to the steering wheel was broken in several places due to age and some heavy hands of a previous mechanic. I was able to reconnect all the broken pieces and build up the missing pieces with several applications of 10 minute epoxy, so that the insulator was functional and did not allow the spring to short out.
The other problem was the shift indicator gage. some previous heavy handed mechanic had dropped the steering without disconnecting the shift indicator clip, thus shearing off the actuator arm and popping off the indicator needle. This gage is rotary actuated and all others that I could find in junk yards were linear actuated. The only thing I could do was to try and epoxy indicator needle that was loose in the case and fabricate another arm and epoxy it to the little plastic stub that was still on the back of the gage. To make a long story short, after many trys, I was successful and the gage now works as well the original. If anyone is interested in how I made this repair, I have photos and would be happy to walk you thru the process. Please contact me off line at dbcall1aol.com.
This was a real learning process and I am happy to finally complete it.
#23 of 141 Re: 1978 Park Avenue turn signals and shift indicator gage [mikuh]
Feb 06, 2009 (3:27 pm)
I'm glad to hear you were successful. It sounds like you are as adept at using epoxy as I am to fix some things. Also PL1 polyurethane caulk/adhesive is really good for putting some things in their place and it has a little give to it.
#24 of 141 Re: 2000 Buick Regal NO START [bowfan]
Feb 10, 2009 (10:21 am)
On second thought, it could just be a loose battery connection. I should have always started with the simple stuff first. Sorry for not suggesting this on the first pass. Any change?
#25 of 141 1994 Park Avenue Cutting Out
Feb 11, 2009 (11:19 am)
I just bought a 1994 Park Avenue (not Ultra) from an older lady. It only has 91000 miles but had set up for a while before I bought it (maybe a year) and the next day i noticed that it was hesitating when I would accelerate. Anyway it got worse and then wouldnt stay cranked. It would start but immediately cut off. I replaced all of the coil packs and the plate under them (i think it was called the ignition module) along with the fuel filter. Now it runs but is still cutting out at low rpms. Ive checked the air filter and am in the process of changing the spark plugs. I have all 3 in the front and 1 in the back. I cant get to the other two. I've heard something about an engine mount that would allow the engine to tilt but i have no idea where it is... Does anyone know anything about accessing the back spark plugs and so far with the 4 new plugs in its still skipping and if changing the plugs doesn't work, what next?? Any suggestions would really help.....Thanks
#26 of 141 Re: 1994 Park Avenue Cutting Out [94buickgrey]
Feb 11, 2009 (12:17 pm)
If the wires are the original Packard wires they must be replaced along with plugs. Use AC for the plugs and a good OEM quality wire; if you don't want ACDelco wires use Belden from NAPA which is a commonly recommended good wire.
There are many things that could cause your hesitation. The fuel pressure and flow needs to be checked.
The IAC needs to be removed and cleaned without getting cleaner up into the operating part.
The MAF sensor is a likely problem area. There is a liquid cleaner to spray on the sensitive wires to clean. You can try disconnecting the MAF and starting the car and see if it runs better (not perfect) without it. That sometimes identifies a problem MAF.
You should check all of the vacuum lines for cracks and rotted sections that might be leaking air. You can try spraying carburetor cleaner around the edges of the upper intake manifold and all the vacuum lines which the car is running and listen for a change in the idle indicating carb cleaner is getting in and being burned.
#27 of 141 Re: 1994 Park Avenue Cutting Out [imidazol97]
Feb 11, 2009 (4:09 pm)
Thanks for the advice. I did find a small 5/36 vaccum line that was pretty much non existant so i just replaced it. I got 4 of the 6 spark plugs in i couldn't get to the other 2, do you know how i can reach them... also the 4 spark plugs that i took out were in extremely bad shape the porcelain insulator part was black and crusty... The MAF that you were talking about disconnecting, im not sure where it is or what it looks like and i cant find a diagram anywhere.. this is the very first time that ive even worked on a car so i really appreciate your advice.