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Buick Park Avenue, Electrical, Sedan
#116 of 141 Buick Park Avenue Power Windows Slow
Oct 04, 2010 (11:58 am)
I have a 2005 Buick Park Avenue Ultra with about 105,000 miles on it. When the temperature is above 60F, and it's dry, the power windows work normally. As soon as the temp drops below 60 or it rains (even a heavy dew can cause the problem) the windows operate incredibly slowly. It can take 30 seconds or more to get the window from closed to fully down. Sometimes the windows will come down about an inch and then stop at that point and will not go down any further. It will close back up, and sometimes repeated open and close cycles will get them to open beyond an inch, but sometimes not. I had the exact same issue with my 2000 Ultra, so I don't think this is specific to my vehicle. The back windows don't seem to have this problem, only the front windows on both sides do. The car does have a sunroof in case that matters. I bought the vehicle 4 years ago with 70K miles on it, and it's done this since I bought it.
I've asked about this at the dealership when I was having other things worked on. They told me the only thing they could do was replace the power window modules at a cost of $800 each. That's not a reasonable option to me.
I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this, and what options I might have other than replacing the power window modules.
#117 of 141 Re: Buick Park Avenue Power Windows Slow [dabeitz]
Jan 29, 2011 (12:22 pm)
I had the same problem. I replaced the motor on the drivers side, they call them modules, twice, and still had slow window movement. Finally tried applying silicone spray heavily on the tracks. That was 2 years ago, still going up and down fine. The passenger side is slow, but I have not fixed it as I don't drive on that side. You have to take the interior of the door off to lubricate the tracks.
#118 of 141 valve cover gasket replacement 97 PA
Jan 29, 2011 (12:28 pm)
This car has 312K on it, doing fine. Replaced the front valve cover gasket and reduced the oil consumption and stink quite a bit. But that rear one is tough. The heater hose connectors do not allow the cover clearance to come completely off. Am I missing something, or do I have to take the antifreeze out and remove the connector? And how does the connector come off?
btw, still getting 25.8 mpg figured by gas and mileage. The computer is always 3 mpg higher.
#119 of 141 97 park ave electical problems
Mar 14, 2011 (9:48 pm)
i changed my signal light switch on my 97 park ave now the radio dont work or windshield wipers and my windows only work sometimes do anyone have a solutions???
#120 of 141 Re: 97 park ave electical problems [brich97]
Mar 15, 2011 (11:48 am)
Did you replace with a new or used switch? If used, are you sure it's the exact same model? Some of the different models look alike externally, but I'm not sure if all the wires match the connector positions.
If you replaced with a used model, did all the wire colors match the unit you pulled out? I'm sorry, but I don't a schematic that lists the wire colors with their purpose for a '97.
You might also double check that all the connections are tight, and that no wires pulled loose from the connectors when you install.
If the wires all match, and the connectors are tight, the only other thing I would check would be the fuses.
#121 of 141 should have known better
Mar 15, 2011 (8:30 pm)
thanks bowfan, I got a used switch never thought about it being a different model because it fit but some auto wreckers will sell you anything as long as it fit and sure the wiring was a different color I notice that right away but I tried it.
#122 of 141 Re: should have known better [brich97]
Mar 16, 2011 (2:21 pm)
yep, they will. In my '98 the right turn signal quit working. I thought the turn signal flasher unit was at fault, so I spent the $50 for the dealer only part, pulled my dash completely off (huge job) replaced the flasher and found I still had the problem. I found out that if I pulled my bulb for the bright white cornering lamp the turn signal worked again, so I took a ohm meter and tested the resistance of the multi-function turn signal lever / switch at the C202 connector and found the right turn signal was way different than the left turn. The contacts just won't handle the current draw. The multi-function TS lever / switch costs around $350 just for the part, so I took the cheaper path. I simply removed the cornering lamp which apparently draws a lot of amperage. I have both turn signals, but no right cornering lamp. .. sigh...
I have read ( just today) where some people swap out to a LED bulb because it draws much less amperage, but I have not pursued that avenue yet. I'll have to take a look at that.
If you look on eBay, you can find several models that look exactly like ours at the column, but the wiring harnesses are different lengths or connectors. I'd guess internally, they'd be the same as ours. At one point I considered getting one, ( I think it was for full size GM SUV) and just matching up the wires to my connectors... but then that got pushed to the back of the long list of chores, once I got the turn signal working again.
#123 of 141 LED dash lights not working. 2002 P.A.
Nov 11, 2011 (9:42 am)
#124 of 141 LED dash lights not working. 2002 P.A.
Nov 11, 2011 (9:42 am)
Instrument Cluster LED lights not working
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2002 Buick Park Ave., the LED lights that illuminate the odometer and transmission shift selector, i.e. D, R, N, 1, 2, 3 quite working. The lights that illuminate the analog tach, speedometer are ok. I want to know precisely what electronic component (probably on a circuit card) it is that goes bad. I believe it possible to desolder that component, and replace it. I believe this is something I can do, instead of replacing it or having it sent off to be rebuilt. I had the same problem with the AC & Heater control, that displays the temp. in LED mode, yet still provided control for AC, heater. Eventually I replaced it with a used one that does light up.
#125 of 141 2003 Buick PA electrical problem
Nov 23, 2011 (8:12 am)