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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Nissan Rogue Prices Paid and Buying Experience
304 messages, Last post on Oct 08, 2008 at 12:10 PM
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| I am confused about something. Went to test drive the Rogue SL with perfirmance package and the sticker price was around $24K and change, including destination charge of $725. But the dealer added on fees of $1995 for environmental protection package (to scotch guard the seats) $690 dealer prep fees to pull off the protective plastic and wash it, and another unbelieveable $1900 for Regional Market Adjustment. When I asked what that was for salesman said because this was so popular they were adding $1900 to the price. Oh, and $69 for a nitrogen fill in the tries. Has anyone ever heard of this!! In my negotiations do I just refuse to pay any of this nonsensical profiteering?? | |
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Replying to: csc2 (Jun 24, 2008 4:33 pm) I'm also test driving and comparing vehicles. I'm sure it's not much different here in Wisconsin than it is in Vegas. I've been to probably 6 or 7 dealerships over the past couple of months (Honda, Subaru, Toyota, Ford, Mitsubishi, Saturn, Dodge and Nissan tomorrow) and only at 2 of them did the sales person ask me to meet the sales manager. In both cases we did not go into an office, they came to us and there was no pressure to purchase, they were just trying to establish a rapport so that I knew I had "friends" there. That said, here's what I recommend - 1) Before you go to your Nissan dealer (or any dealer) have clear in mind the specific vehicle and features you want to see and play with on your test drive (SL AWD with or without AWD package, with or without moonroof, gray interior vs black interior, etc) 2) Next, continue to read through these forums to see what kind of situations (good or bad) others have noticed on test drives or after owning the vehicle for awhile. Is rear visibility an issue, is the engine/CVT too noisy, can you parallel park it, etc. 3) Go to the lot, tell the salesperson right away that you are NOT looking to make a purchase today, just merely test driving vehicles for comparison. That let's them know your stance right away and they are much less likely to push the hard sale, usually. 4) When you decide which vehicle you want, get specific internet quotes from several dealers. Actually, the more quotes you can get the better. That way you have a better chance of getting a low price, so when you go to deal, the dealer either meets the internet quote or you leave them and go to the place that offered the lowest quote, though personally I would probably go there first. And take someone with you that will help you not make an expensive mistake. 5) Finally, as mention by nj2gapch in post #210, be mindful of underhanded dealer shenanigans. From my experience, most dealers are reputable and won't try to screw you over but there's always cheats in every line of work. Also, know your credit and get pre-approved for a loan through a bank or credit union before going to negotiate; and get various quotes on gap insurance and extended warranties if you feel you need them. Knowledge is power. Sorry this is soooo long, hope it helps. |
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Replying to: csc2 (Jun 24, 2008 4:33 pm) The internet is a wonderful thing to use for car shopping and it should save you some money and a lot of aggravation. Over the years, I personally have found car shopping to be one of the more distasteful things I have to do periodically but not so much on my last purchase of a Rogue SL AWD - for $25.5 (plus taxes) including leather (and about everything else). Getting internet quotes should be simple to do, go to either the MSN or Edmunds auto websites and tell them precisely the Rogue you want, options, color etc and then there will be an option after you specify your car 'to get dealer pricing' - which, of course, you do want to do. The quotes you get will be based on a dealer locations surrounding your zipcode. Alternatively you can do much the same thing from Nissan's own website, or use a search engine to find specific dealer websites that may or may not be close to where you live which might help if you happen to live in an area where the local dealers are needlessly inflating prices. Most dealer websites will alow you to vire inventory etc. One other suggestion - although it may take a few days to get your quotes, the dealers seem to understand the concept of 'striking while the iron's hot' and it all may go quite quickly. The recommendation is be prepared to buy even to the point of having whatever financing you might need already arranged (NMAC (or your bank) will be happy to take your application on line and preapprove you) - and it doesn't hurt for you to let the dealers know that you are serious (and capable). The dealers don't want to waste their time with folks that aren't probable buyers and really don't want to waste a bunch of time arguing over $50, which was the point of my post that was certainly not directed at you. Have fun! 
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Replying to: teamavi6 (Jun 24, 2008 9:25 pm) I would be curious to know what part of the country you are in - sounds like the dealer involved is really trying to take too much advantage of a popular vehicle. And yes anything that is not on the manufacturer sticker should be regarded as highly negotiable. If you area dealers are not prone to drop these bogus charges - it may just pay you to hop on an airplane. |
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Replying to: teamavi6 (Jun 24, 2008 9:25 pm) What is the final cost of the vehicle that the dealer was requesting? If it was me I would tell the dealer you can purchase the 3M ScotchGuard yourself at the local Walmart and that nitrogen is not necessary in the tires. Also, when it comes to the car being so demanding/popular tell him you will pay sticker for it then and not deal on it, versus starting at sticker and going up with fees. |
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Replying to: captain2 (Jun 25, 2008 9:22 am)
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Replying to: teamavi6 (Jun 24, 2008 9:25 pm) They to wanted to charge a $250 dealer fee as I was signing the paper work - I told them that was a "walk-away" for me - and they removed it. The fee probably covers the wash, vacum, gas fillup and assembling the car mats and rear pull out cover. Car dealers are what they are, you need to be firm, know your price and be willing to walk if it is not what you expect. I too believe it is not worth haggling over $50-100, but the $250 was not mentioned until the end... and I was not HAPPY about it, and let them know.
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Replying to: csc2 (Jun 25, 2008 10:37 am) |
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Replying to: jekcartalk (Jun 25, 2008 12:38 pm) The idiot salesman I had ignored anything I told him about already having a price (that I was willing to pay) and insisted instead on visiting his sales manager and presenting me 'his deal' - which turned out to be $27k. At which point I did exactly what you suggest, got up and started to walk out - amazing how fast the paperwork went thru after that - at the $25.5. |
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Looking into a new SL AWD Rogue. I haven't had any luck locating information on factory to dealer incentives. Anyone aware of any? Or know a good resource I could use to locate the info? Thanks in advance! |
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