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Jeep Liberty Engine and Performance Problems

89 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 4:55 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Diesel, SUV


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#35 of 89
Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle] by siberia
Feb 03, 2007 (6:53 am)
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Replying to: anabelle (Jan 31, 2007 7:34 am)

Hi Anabelle,
 
I was wondering if you know why your turbo failed? Were you following the turbo cool down procedure according the the owner's manual - such as letting the engine idle for 3 or 4 minutes before shutting it off after pulling off the interstate on a hot day? Was it just defective? Thanks in advance for your response.
#36 of 89
Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle] by jay_diesel
Feb 17, 2007 (8:32 am)
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Replying to: anabelle (Jan 30, 2007 6:08 pm)

Hi,
 I had put in some diesel fuel additive to allow the fuel to work in -20 degree weather and still had engine problems the next day. I purged the line and all worked OK..
 
I would like to add:
 1) Be sure to get an open-end wrench. I had an 11-mm socket and it wasn't long enough... Ooops.
 
 2) Also, a paper cup can be used to hold fuel when pumping out the fuel line. I dumped the fuel into my used oil for disposal...
 
 3) One last "Doh!": I took the oil filler cap off - and engine cover off to get to the fuel separator. DON'T forget (like I did) to put the oil filler cap back on when test-starting the engine. You can get covered with a fine, black oil spray.
 
I was very lucky that I had some coffee and talked over the most common diesel problems with the mechanic at the Jeep dealership beforehand. He said that air in the fuel line was the #1 problem - and purging the line was relatively easy.
 
Hope this helps...
#37 of 89
Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle] by goodcrd
Feb 17, 2007 (1:09 pm)
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Replying to: anabelle (Jan 31, 2007 7:34 am)

Don't use Biodiesel above 5% in a CRD engine. Biodiesel holds more moisture then #2 petroleum diesel. The high pressure at which these injectors work will cause any amount of water in liquid form to cut the injector tips. Then you will have to replace the injectors. The first sign of this happening would be poor fuel economy and an engine misfire at startup. I really don't recommend using biodiesel at all for this reason. When the quality issues related to biodiesel fuels are resolved, maybe. The air in the fuel issue won't be addressed by Jeep. Your going to have to bleed the system about once every 3000 miles or so. I will be changing my fuel lines to steel braided ones after the warranty is up. I will also add another heated fuel filter/water seperator when I replace this assembly with a dual filter assembly with the fuel lines. It has been almost two years since I bought my CRD. The EGR issue has turned out to be related to LSD, Turbo Boost Sensors clogging and dumb dealership mechanics shot gunning repairs. The shudder is air in the fuel system which also causes damage to the trans and torque converter. I believe the issues are about over and as Farout says we were used as a test market to bring the DCX US dealerships up to speed with small diesels. I for one know diesels and love my CRD. It has met all my expectations. The Dealerships failed big. Good luck.
#38 of 89
Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [goodcrd] by farout
Feb 18, 2007 (12:43 pm)
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Replying to: goodcrd (Feb 17, 2007 1:09 pm)

goodcrd: What is a LSD? I know it was a drug long ago, and it might be Latter Day Saints, which none of these fit with a CRD.
  When we hear back from DCX about what they intend to do we have studied this inside and out, and we want the problems fixed. There is no reason to have to spend a dine for them to make it up to standard. What is odd iis the engine is not the big problem it's little things related to the rest of the vehicle. Our fuel gage stays at 3/4 full when it won't take another drop. This will make the 5th sending unite they will have had to replace. This problem is not the CRD's fault. Some how it's easy to jumble all the problems up and lump it all together.
   We have had a jerkiness in the engine from day one. Is this what others call shudder?
   We like the 4 cyc. engine, we think it helps our earth's air. Instead of a HEMI, less not more power makes more sense. I want good fuel mpg and I have had several Neons that got 32+ mpg. We still have a Dodge Neon with 193,800 miles on the original engine, The head gasket was a recall and when they did that ate 90,000+ miles we had the timing belt and water pump replaced at the same time. The Neon still gets 28+ mpg. Which beats the Caliber, Compass, and the Patriot. Where are the brains of these designers> The 3 cars get 23-26 mpg. Heck many of the CRD's do that and better.
   As I have said we are a "test Market" that is no longer a test. DCX has moved on the better toys. I hope Chrysler does split off, and I am of the opinion that who ever buys Chrysler, I won't be surprised if this isn't for the better. I just hope it's not a buyer from Korea or China. I think there was a huge mistake to make the Compass. The GC and Commander should be combined into one vehicle. Better to have 4 really outstanding vehicles than 6 that are low quality and are made of cheap plastic like the Caliber, Compass, Patriot, and the insides are really cheap looking, and feel below Korean quality! I think the Liberty has a good interior, except for the Iron Canvass they used for the seats.
 
Farout
#39 of 89
Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [farout] by steve_ HOST
Feb 18, 2007 (1:35 pm)
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Replying to: farout (Feb 18, 2007 12:43 pm)

In the auto context, LSD means Limited Slip Differential.
 
I suppose you could complain about your LSD not fitting into your cupholder (Large Soft Drink ). Or if your CRD won't get up and go, it'll turn into a Low Speed Diesel.
#40 of 89
Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [steve_] by goodcrd
Feb 19, 2007 (10:27 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (Feb 18, 2007 1:35 pm)

LSD when referring to fuel is Low Sulfer Diesel. And Farout learn to bleed the air from your fuel system and see if the shutter goes away. Even you can do this procedure. Read all the posts on it.
 
Good Luck
#41 of 89
Speed sensor by dave_89rs
Oct 19, 2007 (9:45 am)
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I took my 2002 liberty to the dealer a couple of months ago, they said there was a loose wire on the speed sensor. It started dying again with the same lights coming on (abs, brake light, and engine light). I took it in again and now they would have to replace the whole speed sensor. I am sick of them toying with me, so i want to replace it myself. Does anybody know a website i could go to that would have directions on how to r/r a speed sensor? Or any other helpful information?
#43 of 89
Overheating not blowing hot air by jdslandscape
Nov 06, 2007 (7:56 pm)
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I have a 2002 liberty limited edition 4x4. The heat stopped working and it was overheating. I replaced thermastat and refilled antifreeze. My wife drove it home it did not overheat but the heater did not work. I think it might be the water pump does anyone have any ideas.
#44 of 89
2006 CRD with auto trans, Engine runaway by smiler
Nov 13, 2007 (8:35 am)
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Several weeks ago, attempting to pull onto highway with fairly light throttle application, my engine ran quickly up to almost 4000 rpm before I could shift into Neutral. No warning lights came on! Luckily, there was a center turn lane that I was able to pull into to avoid oncoming traffic from both directions. In Neutral, rpms returned to normal and I was able to drive straight to the local dealer. The dealer kept the car for 2 days, ending up finding nothing. Three days ago, my wife used the car and it happened to her in nearly the same spot. She was able to pull over and shut down. When I arrived, I tried to restart and the engine ran up to 4800 rpm without touching the throttle. A red lightening flash warning light came on this time. It was towed at Chryslers expense to the dealers, where they still haven't gotten around to it. While awaiting word, I thought I would ask in this forum if anyone else has had this experience. All maintenance is up to date/ less than 15000 miles/ have opted not to do the Torque Converter recall

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