Last post on Jul 30, 2013 at 11:13 AM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Liberty, Diesel, SUV
#28 of 209 Re: Dealer say new liberty sputter is normal, can it be? [careyb]
Mar 20, 2007 (3:07 am)
sputter is normal, can it be?
NO! It can be endemic to this particular year or model (based on CRD experience) but definitely not normal. If this were a 1960's car we would look at parts like the accelerator pump not squirting enough fuel, the vacuum advance sticking or not moving freely, centrifugal weights in the distributor not moving properly so not advancing the timing. Or even inaccurate timing or improper low speed jets in the carburetor - all things a corner garage could fix.
What I would do is ask to drive another 2007 to see if they all do it. If they won't let you, go to another dealership. Verify for yourself that this is a common problem.
These jeeps (like most everything else, now) are drive-by-wire. There is a rather cheesy position sensor in the gas pedal that may not be throwing a code but not reading properly. There is a throttle plate controller that may have the same issue. There are a number of sensors that might be performing marginally and not throwing a code. Just because there is no code does not mean the tech can't try something. It is a valid diagnostic to change out parts and change them back if there is no improvement.
Lastly, if it is a common problem it won't take very long for a TSB to show up at dealerships that will almost but not quite fix the problem. Good luck!
#29 of 209 valve problems with Liberty
Jul 10, 2007 (8:07 am)
i recently had a similar problem with my 2006 Liberty and it worsened to the point that it felt as though my Liberty was going to stall (both while idling and while accelerating); eventually, my "check engine" light came on so i took it in to the dealership. it turns out that there was excessive carbon deposits on the valves and all of the valves had to be replaced. and this is not the first time my dealer has had this problem. luckily, mine was covered by warranty. i suggest you ask your dealer to check your valves.
#30 of 209 Re: Dealer say new liberty sputter is normal, can it be? [careyb]
Jul 10, 2007 (10:31 am)
I would suggest taking a thorough test drive in one of the new 07's sitting on the dealers lot and see if it does the same thing. Maybe test drive two and if your problem isn't evident in the other Jeeps you have a very strong case to insist it be remedied. Just say, " I want mine to run like the others or swap them out at no charge".
An old lesson I learned the hard way is that before buying any new car, I take it and several others similarly equipped on test drives and settle on the one that drives the best. You would be surprised at how different identical cars feel on the road re accelerating, shifting etc.
#32 of 209 How do you prime the fuel water separator?
Jan 30, 2007 (6:08 pm)
The manual doesn't help at all... How do I re-prime? We are stuck in Ohio, the car doesn't start....Argh!!!!!
#33 of 209 Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle]
Jan 31, 2007 (1:15 am)
I would suggest to get a 11mm wrench. Make sure the tank is not empty, or why are you priming it in the first place? Anyways, pump the hand pump on the filter assembly till it gets harder to pump. Bled the air out by opening th the little nipple on the side of the fuel filter with the 11mm wrench but close it before the air stops coming out. Repeat the pump till it gets hard and letting the air out till bubble free fuel comes out. Just like the air shut the nibble off before it stops flowing. By the way use a long hose like a oversized aquarium hose on the end of the nipple to a container below the the jeep, or some rags to catch the fuel. Or one will smell fuel for a few days. Make sure the air nipple is closed tight and try to start it again. Might suggest putting the battery on a charger if you have tried to crank it a bunch.
#34 of 209 Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [ucanfarm]
Jan 31, 2007 (7:34 am)
Hubby let the fuel get too low, then put a Bio/regular diesel mix. I think since it was so cold, the bio would not let the fuel flow. We ended up having it towed to a garage which was heated. The mech. did almost exactly what you said. But it really needed to be out of the cold for a while too. He suggests changing the fuel filter, who knows what it is going to look like now.
thanks...sorry to freak out...it was freezing on the Ohio turnpike
We have had so many issues already with this vehicle. Our turbo went bad and stranded us in Virgina. The parts were on back order, so the jeep had already been in the shop for a month. thanks much
#35 of 209 Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle]
Feb 03, 2007 (6:53 am)
I was wondering if you know why your turbo failed? Were you following the turbo cool down procedure according the the owner's manual - such as letting the engine idle for 3 or 4 minutes before shutting it off after pulling off the interstate on a hot day? Was it just defective? Thanks in advance for your response.
#36 of 209 Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle]
Feb 17, 2007 (8:32 am)
I had put in some diesel fuel additive to allow the fuel to work in -20 degree weather and still had engine problems the next day. I purged the line and all worked OK..
I would like to add:
1) Be sure to get an open-end wrench. I had an 11-mm socket and it wasn't long enough... Ooops.
2) Also, a paper cup can be used to hold fuel when pumping out the fuel line. I dumped the fuel into my used oil for disposal...
3) One last "Doh!": I took the oil filler cap off - and engine cover off to get to the fuel separator. DON'T forget (like I did) to put the oil filler cap back on when test-starting the engine. You can get covered with a fine, black oil spray.
I was very lucky that I had some coffee and talked over the most common diesel problems with the mechanic at the Jeep dealership beforehand. He said that air in the fuel line was the #1 problem - and purging the line was relatively easy.
Hope this helps...
#37 of 209 Re: How do you prime the fuel water separator? [anabelle]
Feb 17, 2007 (1:09 pm)
Don't use Biodiesel above 5% in a CRD engine. Biodiesel holds more moisture then #2 petroleum diesel. The high pressure at which these injectors work will cause any amount of water in liquid form to cut the injector tips. Then you will have to replace the injectors. The first sign of this happening would be poor fuel economy and an engine misfire at startup. I really don't recommend using biodiesel at all for this reason. When the quality issues related to biodiesel fuels are resolved, maybe. The air in the fuel issue won't be addressed by Jeep. Your going to have to bleed the system about once every 3000 miles or so. I will be changing my fuel lines to steel braided ones after the warranty is up. I will also add another heated fuel filter/water seperator when I replace this assembly with a dual filter assembly with the fuel lines. It has been almost two years since I bought my CRD. The EGR issue has turned out to be related to LSD, Turbo Boost Sensors clogging and dumb dealership mechanics shot gunning repairs. The shudder is air in the fuel system which also causes damage to the trans and torque converter. I believe the issues are about over and as Farout says we were used as a test market to bring the DCX US dealerships up to speed with small diesels. I for one know diesels and love my CRD. It has met all my expectations. The Dealerships failed big. Good luck.