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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
107 messages, Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 5:13 PM
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Replying to: Alirob (Aug 07, 2009 1:38 pm) |
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Replying to: slowcar (Jul 20, 2009 1:35 pm) I have the exact same problem on my 01' Highlander. The temperature range is approximately 12-18 degrees warmer on the drivers side as opposed to the passenger side. I will let you know if I come up with anything.
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Replying to: kburger1 (May 27, 2009 10:14 pm) |
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Replying to: rohoo (Aug 28, 2009 5:29 am) |
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Replying to: slowcar (Jul 20, 2009 1:35 pm) While those systems are prone to "automatically" putting the system into a mode wherein the danger is more likely to arise, having the manual system in recirculate mode during cooling use is one of the base criteria for "stumbling" across the same windshield fogging situation. Even without the system being in defrost/defog/demist mode there is still a not insignificant possibility that the windshield interior surface will be cooled to the cabin dewpoint and gradually, or in some unique case, SUDDENLY fog over with a light coating of condensation. What you may be experiencing is Toyota/Lexus latest FIX for the HAZARDS arising from a seriously flawed A/C design. Having the driver's side air outflow be somewhat higher in temperature would undoubtedly allviate some of the potential for windshield fogging on that side of the vehicle. |
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Replying to: alleycat7 (Sep 18, 2007 2:55 pm) and it needs to be replaced for $1000.00. you can pull the knob off and adjust the nut. however I have hit bumps in the road and it turns to cold air. I called Toyota and they will not recall it due to it is not a "saftey problem" It is when I am unable to defrost my windsheild. I am not paying that... more calls to Toyota to help them recall this issue. |
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Thanks, wwest for the information but I don't think that was the problem. The air cond had been working just fine all these years and the problem just popped up more than a year ago. I don't think the temp in driver side is higher than that of the passenger side...it's just that the driver side vent sucks in the carbin's air (recirculation mode) and blows it right back out without having the liquid freon going thru the evaporator. When I heard a little "click" sound of the solenoid then the driver side started getting cold just like the other side. Anyway, thanks for the info. If you can think of any thing else, please advise.
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Replying to: slowcar (Oct 10, 2009 5:56 am) Air inlet with a damper door to select fresh intake airflow or recirculate. Fresh airflow is usually taken in at the foot of the windshield on the passenger side (US). Recirculate airflow is taken in from an opening behind the glove box' traditional position. ALL system airflow, regardless of fresh/recirc intake origin, then flows through the pollen filter, the blower ("sucker") and then to, through, the cooling evaporator core. The cooling evaporator core is typically operated at ~34F(***). So if the blower speed is fairly low the airflow temperature at this point might be very close to freezing. The next step is the reheat/remix vane/door. The control system will "set" the position of the vane door such that a selected portion of that just previously cooled airflow will be diverted from the "main" flow path and through the ~180F heater core. Downstream of the heater core the two airflow portions will remix/merge and the end result will be system outlet airflow that is cool enough, sometimes just BARELY cool enough, to maintain the passenger cabin, OVERALL, at your selected temperature setpoint. If you turn the manual control to maximum cooling or the automatic one to the lowest temperature setting then NO airflow will be reheated and the outflow might be discomfortingly COLD. *** Currently no method is used to moderate the operating temperature of the evaporator, mostly in order to take full (but RANDOM) advantage of the evaporator's dehumidification aspects. |
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wwest: few questions. 1) It doesn't seem to be efficient to heat up part of the cold air (+34F) with the +180F heater core and then re-mix it with the original cold air to regulate the temperature. It's like running your house aircond at full speed and then open the windows slightly to maintain the set temperture. p.s. BTW, I thought the car air cond regulates the temperature via the Expansion Valve, where it opens to allow liquid freon from the Condenser to flow to the Evaporator if it wants to cool down the air. When the cabin's air is cool enough this Expansion Valve will be closed; thus no more cooling. Am I wrong? 2) Is there a vane door separately for passenger side and driver side so that on the driver side, the vane door was stuck and won't allow the cold air to go through and mix in with the warm air? If there isn't a separate vane door for the driver side, then why the passenger side's temp is much lower (20F) than that of driver side if both sides share the same vane door? The kicker is that the system had been working no problem until recently !!! So it can't be the problem with the Toyota aircond design.
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Replying to: cpiper (Mar 08, 2008 5:51 am) |
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