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Toyota Highlander Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning

107 messages,  Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 5:13 PM

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#83 of 107 circuit board removal by rut Aug 02, 2009 (5:42 pm)
You have to remove the complete unit out. it just kinda snaps out if I remember correctly. there is a circuit board that you have to remove. There are a few screws holding it in. Be careful handling the board as to not emit any static electricity that would take out the ic's on the board.   You will find a small circuit board mounted where the temp control is. Go assuming you have taken the knobs off in front and removed the nuts on the controls, you can unclip the board and pull it out. There is a 3 wire cable connecting the circuit board to the temp switch. Mine had a broken wire at the small board. Be very careful trying to solder this back. It requires a small tip and not too much heat.   Hope this helps. Better than spending $800 for a new one or $300 for a used one.   Rut Replies to this message: davidc4607 (Oct 18, 2009 3:21 pm) davidc4607 (Oct 26, 2009 2:27 pm)
#84 of 107 Re: '01 Highlander Aircond problem [slowcar] by Alirob Aug 07, 2009 (1:38 pm)
Replying to: slowcar (Jul 20, 2009 1:35 pm) Slowcar, I have exactly the same problem on my 02 Highlander. Have you found a solution yet? Rob Replies to this message: slowcar (Aug 25, 2009 12:26 pm)
#85 of 107 Re: '01 Highlander Aircond problem [Alirob] by slowcar Aug 25, 2009 (12:26 pm)
Replying to: Alirob (Aug 07, 2009 1:38 pm) No...It seems like you and I were the only ones having this problem. It must be some thing very simple that prevents the freon from going to the driver side's vent. Hate to bring it in the dealer and spend $thousands$ .... Please post it here if you found some thing. Thanks.
#86 of 107 Re: '01 Highlander Aircond problem [slowcar] by rohoo Aug 28, 2009 (5:29 am)
Replying to: slowcar (Jul 20, 2009 1:35 pm) slowcar, I have the exact same problem on my 01' Highlander. The temperature range is approximately 12-18 degrees warmer on the drivers side as opposed to the passenger side. I will let you know if I come up with anything. Replies to this message: slowcar (Oct 08, 2009 9:23 am)
#87 of 107 Re: a good way to thank you for helping me [kburger1] by cps2698 Sep 06, 2009 (8:07 am)
Replying to: kburger1 (May 27, 2009 10:14 pm) Just wanted to thank the original poster regarding the ac temp issue and the loose nut. Just as you said, my husband took the knob off and the nut was loose. Boy am I glad I was reading this yesterday. It saved us a lot of money!
#88 of 107 Re: '01 Highlander Aircond problem [rohoo] by slowcar Oct 08, 2009 (9:23 am)
Replying to: rohoo (Aug 28, 2009 5:29 am) Any news? Also I noticed that the driver's side air will kick in cold if the outside temperature is low enough, like in the low 80's. I even heard a "click" sound from a solenoid when it started getting cold. Of course the passenger's side stays cold the whole time.....Any body's having an idea? Please help.
#89 of 107 Re: '01 Highlander Aircond problem [slowcar] by wwest Oct 08, 2009 (12:14 pm)
Replying to: slowcar (Jul 20, 2009 1:35 pm) Thiis is just/simply a guess. In the conditions you describe the Toyota and Lexus series automatic climate control has always, since at least 1990, been VERY prone to sudden, inadvertent, fogging of the interior windshield surface. There is even addressed, obliquely, within your owners manual with a direction to NEVER have the system in defrost/defog/demist mode during cooling airflow operation.   While those systems are prone to "automatically" putting the system into a mode wherein the danger is more likely to arise, having the manual system in recirculate mode during cooling use is one of the base criteria for "stumbling" across the same windshield fogging situation.   Even without the system being in defrost/defog/demist mode there is still a not insignificant possibility that the windshield interior surface will be cooled to the cabin dewpoint and gradually, or in some unique case, SUDDENLY fog over with a light coating of condensation.   What you may be experiencing is Toyota/Lexus latest FIX for the HAZARDS arising from a seriously flawed A/C design. Having the driver's side air outflow be somewhat higher in temperature would undoubtedly allviate some of the potential for windshield fogging on that side of the vehicle.
#90 of 107 Re: Toyota Highlander A/C problems [alleycat7] by kricket2 Oct 09, 2009 (6:51 am)
Replying to: alleycat7 (Sep 18, 2007 2:55 pm) yes, my heat does not stay on "hot" The dealer says it is vacuumed sealed and it needs to be replaced for $1000.00. you can pull the knob off and adjust the nut. however I have hit bumps in the road and it turns to cold air. I called Toyota and they will not recall it due to it is not a "saftey problem" It is when I am unable to defrost my windsheild. I am not paying that... more calls to Toyota to help them recall this issue.
#91 of 107 wwest ... by slowcar Oct 10, 2009 (5:56 am)
Thanks, wwest for the information but I don't think that was the problem. The air cond had been working just fine all these years and the problem just popped up more than a year ago. I don't think the temp in driver side is higher than that of the passenger side...it's just that the driver side vent sucks in the carbin's air (recirculation mode) and blows it right back out without having the liquid freon going thru the evaporator. When I heard a little "click" sound of the solenoid then the driver side started getting cold just like the other side. Anyway, thanks for the info. If you can think of any thing else, please advise. Replies to this message: wwest (Oct 10, 2009 8:25 am)
#92 of 107 Re: wwest ... [slowcar] by wwest Oct 10, 2009 (8:25 am)
Replying to: slowcar (Oct 10, 2009 5:56 am) The mechanical airflow path of automotive A/C.   Air inlet with a damper door to select fresh intake airflow or recirculate. Fresh airflow is usually taken in at the foot of the windshield on the passenger side (US). Recirculate airflow is taken in from an opening behind the glove box' traditional position. ALL system airflow, regardless of fresh/recirc intake origin, then flows through the pollen filter, the blower ("sucker") and then to, through, the cooling evaporator core. The cooling evaporator core is typically operated at ~34F(***). So if the blower speed is fairly low the airflow temperature at this point might be very close to freezing.   The next step is the reheat/remix vane/door. The control system will "set" the position of the vane door such that a selected portion of that just previously cooled airflow will be diverted from the "main" flow path and through the ~180F heater core. Downstream of the heater core the two airflow portions will remix/merge and the end result will be system outlet airflow that is cool enough, sometimes just BARELY cool enough, to maintain the passenger cabin, OVERALL, at your selected temperature setpoint.   If you turn the manual control to maximum cooling or the automatic one to the lowest temperature setting then NO airflow will be reheated and the outflow might be discomfortingly COLD.   *** Currently no method is used to moderate the operating temperature of the evaporator, mostly in order to take full (but RANDOM) advantage of the evaporator's dehumidification aspects.

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