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Toyota Highlander Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning

97 messages, Last post on Oct 26, 2009 at 2:27 PM
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Replying to: ojnucci (May 04, 2009 2:24 pm) Sorry this is not more help. Gary
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Replying to: ggartner (May 04, 2009 3:04 pm) Thanks Gary. |
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thanks for pointing me to the loose nut behind the temperature control knob. as thanks here is further info. If you tighten the nut and it still doesnt work try taking the nut off completely and gently move the knob to different positions with the blower on max air. If it changes from hot to cold in different positions the 3 wires connecting that control switch to the next upstream board are severed (broken solder joints) you can remove the whole assembly with the radio first disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. the trim around the radio and ac controls just pulls straight out from the bottom and then at the top very easy. disconnect the wires they are keyed, large connectors goto the air controls, small connectors to the radio. you need to resolder the wires back onto the control knob board. I have been soldering along time and it was hard. good idea to test joints with a multimeter. if you short any of them it probably wont work. you will show continuity between wires even when its done correctly, 2 have full continuity and you also have 1 with a resistance of like .7 which i think is an inline resistor. i replaced the existing grey flate wire with 3 small guage individual wires. label it so you dont get any wires crossed. I just got done test driving the car and the ac and heat work perfect. I hope this helps people out there to fix these problems without paying thousand of dollars to the dealer. I just fixed mine for free. Very satisfying.
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In my 2002 highlander the air temp will vary with the slightest of bumps. It will jump from hot to cold immediately. The dealership wants $800 to replace the panel:( I'm thinking it is a loose wire or something. Anyone else seen this problem? Rut
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Replying to: rut (Jun 03, 2009 3:12 am) |
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Replying to: rut (Jun 03, 2009 3:12 am) Most likely a loose/intermittent connection to the OAT, Outside Air Temperature, sensor mounted behind or on the back of the front bumper just forward of the AC condensor/radiator stack. And open connection will indicate a sub-freezing OAT and the AC compressor will be disabled and the system will go into heating mode as long as the sensor is open. Another "bump", connection closes, AC cooling returns. |
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Problem description: in a hot day, the aircond only blows out cold air in the passenger side vents, warm air still in the driver side vents. The aircond was put in the recirculation mode; never have from the outside. My thought was that there was some thing (a valve, maybe?) blocking the cold air from going to driver side. What's wrong? Solutions? Thanks all for help. |
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ok, let me try this again, without hitting the enter button before i put a message....anyways, I just recently started having the problem of hot air blowing through while my ac is on, then switching back to cold air....i have tightened the nut behind the temp switch and am hoping that is the fix....thanks so much for all the information...you guys are awesome
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Replying to: leean21 (Jul 20, 2009 3:20 pm) |
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