Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
97 messages, Last post on Oct 26, 2009 at 2:27 PM
You are in the Toyota Highlander Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
|
Replying to: tidester (Apr 25, 2009 9:45 am) |
|
|
Replying to: mikefm58 (Mar 28, 2009 7:48 pm) I tried to solder the wires but in the end bought a replacement unit on ebay for $200. the dealer wanted $700 to do it and $565 just for the part. it is easy just pry out the facia and then undo 4 screws the whole thing pops out and then replace with new or used unit. If you are good at soldering it could save you a lot of money. If it has only just happened you may be lucky and get away with tightening the nut behind the control knob Good luck! |
|
|
Replying to: janners (May 01, 2009 10:14 am) |
|
|
Replying to: janners (May 01, 2009 10:14 am) Could you tell me which part it was you bought on ebay? I would like to do the same thing- my Highlander has been doing this for about 2 years so I've been just half-turning the temp control knob to get cold (though it has still been very intermittent!). Its been a huge thorn and I've been quoted from two separate shops at over a grand to replace the "Blender Box." THanks!
|
|
|
Replying to: ojnucci (May 04, 2009 2:24 pm) Sorry this is not more help. Gary
|
|
|
Replying to: ggartner (May 04, 2009 3:04 pm) Thanks Gary. |
|
thanks for pointing me to the loose nut behind the temperature control knob. as thanks here is further info. If you tighten the nut and it still doesnt work try taking the nut off completely and gently move the knob to different positions with the blower on max air. If it changes from hot to cold in different positions the 3 wires connecting that control switch to the next upstream board are severed (broken solder joints) you can remove the whole assembly with the radio first disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. the trim around the radio and ac controls just pulls straight out from the bottom and then at the top very easy. disconnect the wires they are keyed, large connectors goto the air controls, small connectors to the radio. you need to resolder the wires back onto the control knob board. I have been soldering along time and it was hard. good idea to test joints with a multimeter. if you short any of them it probably wont work. you will show continuity between wires even when its done correctly, 2 have full continuity and you also have 1 with a resistance of like .7 which i think is an inline resistor. i replaced the existing grey flate wire with 3 small guage individual wires. label it so you dont get any wires crossed. I just got done test driving the car and the ac and heat work perfect. I hope this helps people out there to fix these problems without paying thousand of dollars to the dealer. I just fixed mine for free. Very satisfying.
|
|
|
In my 2002 highlander the air temp will vary with the slightest of bumps. It will jump from hot to cold immediately. The dealership wants $800 to replace the panel:( I'm thinking it is a loose wire or something. Anyone else seen this problem? Rut
|
|
|
Replying to: rut (Jun 03, 2009 3:12 am) |
|
|
Replying to: rut (Jun 03, 2009 3:12 am) Most likely a loose/intermittent connection to the OAT, Outside Air Temperature, sensor mounted behind or on the back of the front bumper just forward of the AC condensor/radiator stack. And open connection will indicate a sub-freezing OAT and the AC compressor will be disabled and the system will go into heating mode as long as the sensor is open. Another "bump", connection closes, AC cooling returns. |
|
You are here:
Forums
SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Toyota Highlander
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
