Last post on Nov 14, 2013 at 7:29 PM
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Toyota Celica, Auto Repair, Engine, Coupe
#44 of 59 94 Celica Engine Failure
Jul 03, 2011 (9:53 pm)
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica GT that quit running while I was driving down the highway. I think everything just shut down. Tried putting more gas, no help. Jumping it worked once, but the car shut down again a few hundred feet down the road. Jumping it again didn't work. Would prior transmission problems have anything to do with engine failure, or are there other problems that can occur with Toyota Celicas?
#45 of 59 2000 Celica GT-S Hesitation
Sep 15, 2011 (4:30 pm)
My Celica started sputtering when I accelerate recently, and the check engine light came on, and it turns out I have a misfire in my first cylinder, I discovered that there was liquid in my first cylinder which was causing the misfire. My mechanic told me the leak was due to my ignition coil, So I replaced it with a brand new ignition coil. A couple days later my car started sputtering when I accelerate again and it will hesitate for 2-3 seconds before finally accelerating normally. The difference is this time my check engine light isn't coming on, therefore it's not throwing any codes. So I take a look in my 1st cylinder again to discover that there is more liquid in my cylinder! This is after the brand new coil...Now I'm at a loss, my car is sputtering, and pinpointing this problem without a check engine code is seemingly impossible....Need a resolution!
#46 of 59 Re: 2000 Celica GT-S Hesitation [efanos]
by PFFlyer@Edmunds HOST
Sep 16, 2011 (4:20 am)
By liquid, do you mean water? Could be a head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder. Are you getting any white smoke from the exhaust? That would be a sign I would watch for.
#47 of 59 Re: 2000 Celica GT-S Hesitation [pf_flyer]
Sep 16, 2011 (1:25 pm)
My mechanic said that it's water possibly from rain. But the 3 days that passed after the new coil was put in there was no rain and I didn't wash my car, so there would be no reason for rain water to be there. To me it smells like coolant, And there is no white smoke coming out of my exhaust.
#48 of 59 1997 Toyota Celica HELP!
Dec 05, 2012 (2:19 pm)
While driving home my celica just suddenly died and has been for about 2 months now. It wont start, all it does is the cranking sound as always. Im not a car guy so i just ask my brother about it. He says it was the ignition coil but i replaced that and it wasnt the problem, also there is an oil leak in one of the spark plug cylnders as well, which might be the problem. my dad says it might be something electrical. please help me
#49 of 59 Re: 1997 Toyota Celica HELP! [hmong_lo]
Jan 27, 2013 (12:20 pm)
I have a 1996 Toyota Celica that had the same problems a couple of years ago, it turned out to be the timing belt. That's a possibility.
Feb 03, 2013 (12:11 am)
2002 GTS with 205K miles had code P0171 .
MAF resistance measured OK. Clean it with carburator cleaner, did not help.
Swapped in a MAF sensor form another car. Cleared all codes. Pass smog test. Car runs smooth and powerful again.
#51 of 59 Re: 2000 Celica GT-S Hesitation [efanos]
May 02, 2013 (9:25 pm)
Could be a faulty spark plugs connector or wire. There is no spark or only weak sparks, fuel is not burned completely, leaving wet residue.
Swap the wet connector to another plug. If the new plug is wet and the old plug is dry, then connector is faulty. Replace the old connector.
If the same plug remains wet, then the cam head may have leaks which could leak coolant into the cylinder, killing the spark.
In this case, unless you find and fix the root cause the engine to overheat and crack in the first place, the engine will crack again in different places.
If you dont know what cause the over heat may be better to swap out the engine with a known-good reman or refurbed used engine
Check all rubber vacuum hoses. They are usually black rubber quarter inch diameter. If they are not plugged in or are leaky, that would cause the engine to hesitate.
Aug 26, 2013 (6:12 am)
2002 Celica GTS has 200K miles on it. The engine had a small oil leak in the back of the oil pan, like less 1 quart every 15K mile. I use WALMART's synthetic 0-30 oil every 15K miles and the oil never got lower than minimum each time. So it's just small leak onto the plastic bottom covers, then a small oily spot on the floor.
Removed all 16 bolts, took the oil pan out, scrape both surfaces of RTV flexible gasket, then cleaned with Acetone to get rid of any oil residue.
Squeezed Toyota black RTV flexible gasket on the surface of the pan and carefully assembled back to the engine. Oil still leaked. Suspected not enough RTV was used, so removed the pan and redo the RTV flexible gasket again. STILL LEAK but SMALLER LEAK this time.
Cleaned the engine block with degreaser and high pressure water spray at a car wash. Put the car on block, got underneath and carefully looked at the back side of the engine. The oil pan's seal looked good. Lots of RTV squeezed out of the mating surfaces.
Looks like the leak came from from the top valve cover gasket, dripping down to the belt tensioner strut. So I tightened all 10 mm bolts around the valve cover top.
There is also the stainless -steel power steering line, bolted onto the engine block with a single 14 mm bolt. The bolts looked wet with oil but not sure if there is engine oil behind it that could leak. But tighten it anyway.
That stopped the leak. The engine is now dry. I wished I had cleaned the engine block and look at it carefully to find the leaks before doing all the hard work, removing the oil pan etc...
#53 of 59 Engine swap for 1989 toyota celica ST
Aug 31, 2013 (4:30 pm)
Hi, I am currently swapping the engine on my car and it is almost ready to be pulled out but it seems to be that the wiring that goes right under the EFI head is in there pretty well. I have de attached all little clips from the engine. These are the only thing stopping me. Is there any way to de attach the wiring from both sides and is it safe for me to do so? This is my first engine swap on my toyota. Please help.