Last post on Nov 14, 2013 at 7:29 PM
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Toyota Celica, Auto Repair, Engine, Coupe
Feb 03, 2013 (12:11 am)
2002 GTS with 205K miles had code P0171 .
MAF resistance measured OK. Clean it with carburator cleaner, did not help.
Swapped in a MAF sensor form another car. Cleared all codes. Pass smog test. Car runs smooth and powerful again.
#51 of 59 Re: 2000 Celica GT-S Hesitation [efanos]
May 02, 2013 (9:25 pm)
Could be a faulty spark plugs connector or wire. There is no spark or only weak sparks, fuel is not burned completely, leaving wet residue.
Swap the wet connector to another plug. If the new plug is wet and the old plug is dry, then connector is faulty. Replace the old connector.
If the same plug remains wet, then the cam head may have leaks which could leak coolant into the cylinder, killing the spark.
In this case, unless you find and fix the root cause the engine to overheat and crack in the first place, the engine will crack again in different places.
If you dont know what cause the over heat may be better to swap out the engine with a known-good reman or refurbed used engine
Check all rubber vacuum hoses. They are usually black rubber quarter inch diameter. If they are not plugged in or are leaky, that would cause the engine to hesitate.
Aug 26, 2013 (6:12 am)
2002 Celica GTS has 200K miles on it. The engine had a small oil leak in the back of the oil pan, like less 1 quart every 15K mile. I use WALMART's synthetic 0-30 oil every 15K miles and the oil never got lower than minimum each time. So it's just small leak onto the plastic bottom covers, then a small oily spot on the floor.
Removed all 16 bolts, took the oil pan out, scrape both surfaces of RTV flexible gasket, then cleaned with Acetone to get rid of any oil residue.
Squeezed Toyota black RTV flexible gasket on the surface of the pan and carefully assembled back to the engine. Oil still leaked. Suspected not enough RTV was used, so removed the pan and redo the RTV flexible gasket again. STILL LEAK but SMALLER LEAK this time.
Cleaned the engine block with degreaser and high pressure water spray at a car wash. Put the car on block, got underneath and carefully looked at the back side of the engine. The oil pan's seal looked good. Lots of RTV squeezed out of the mating surfaces.
Looks like the leak came from from the top valve cover gasket, dripping down to the belt tensioner strut. So I tightened all 10 mm bolts around the valve cover top.
There is also the stainless -steel power steering line, bolted onto the engine block with a single 14 mm bolt. The bolts looked wet with oil but not sure if there is engine oil behind it that could leak. But tighten it anyway.
That stopped the leak. The engine is now dry. I wished I had cleaned the engine block and look at it carefully to find the leaks before doing all the hard work, removing the oil pan etc...
#53 of 59 Engine swap for 1989 toyota celica ST
Aug 31, 2013 (4:30 pm)
Hi, I am currently swapping the engine on my car and it is almost ready to be pulled out but it seems to be that the wiring that goes right under the EFI head is in there pretty well. I have de attached all little clips from the engine. These are the only thing stopping me. Is there any way to de attach the wiring from both sides and is it safe for me to do so? This is my first engine swap on my toyota. Please help.
#54 of 59 Re: 94 Celica Engine Failure [jmelee11]
Sep 14, 2013 (7:31 am)
Did you get a resolve on this problem? We have similar issue w/ our '94 celica.
List of parts replaced: battery, alternator, radiator, distributor, spark plugs and cables, fuel pump/filter, coolant sensor and removed the security system.
Still quits running randomly. Won't re-start for days to weeks, but will start and run, then randomly stop again. Been doing this for last 9 months...very frustrating.
Anybody with any ideas? All input appreciated.
#55 of 59 Re: 94 Celica Engine Failure [5ofmine]
Oct 20, 2013 (5:47 pm)
Did you scan the engine? What failure codes show up?
Anyone trying to troubleshoot or fix cars should buy an engine scanner cheap like $20 in eBay. Then at least you have some ideas what failures are and possible root cause.
If the engine just die instantly and totally, fuel starving is very likely. Check and make sure the fuel pump is working and the wiring has signals to the pump.
Take the 4 plugs out. Hook them into the plug connectors and crank the engine. All 4 plugs should give sparks. If there are glitches in the electrical system,then engine would run rough but would not die totally.
#56 of 59 Re: 1997 Celica Idle Problem [butch42]
Oct 20, 2013 (5:49 pm)
Could be any of the smaller vacuum hoses not plugged in or leaking.
Check all those quarter-inch vacuum hoses.
#57 of 59 Re: CEL code P0171 [peterpan99]
Oct 20, 2013 (5:54 pm)
Found out MAF should be cleaned only with contact cleaner or any MAF cleaner that leaves no residue.
Carburetor cleaner and WD-40 all leave lubricants which screw up the sensor reading.
#58 of 59 My 96 Celica ST is sputtering, check engine light is on.
Oct 24, 2013 (5:48 pm)
Hi everyone. So I've had a 96 Toyota Celica St for about three years now and almost any problem I've had, I could fix but this one is puzzling. So here's the story, About three weeks ago, while I was driving home from work, i huge tractor trailer went by me on the highway and the wind caused my hood to fly up and bend at the middle. I pulled over and while I was trying to fix the problem, a guy pulled over and said all I had to do was tie the hood down until I got home, he said he had some rope and we tied my hood down. Then, I get out on the highway and my Ignition sticks. So my car is constantly gaining speed and I'm breaking the speed limit by 100, so I pulled over, slammed on the brakes as hard as I could and when It wouldn't stop, I had to shut my car off. The result was a loud pop and exhaust pouring out the front. I fixed the hood and got it back home. Now the big problem: for the past week my car has only started when it was hot enough outside but when it's cold in the morning the car acts like it' starting but never does. Today, after I thought it was the distributor cap and button, I bought a new set, installed the parts and as I'm driving down the road, I noticed while it was idle, the engine would shake, like it's about to shut off. The RPM's don't move or anything and the check engine light is on. Does anyone have any ideas?
#59 of 59 Engine codes on a 3sfe engine.
Nov 14, 2013 (7:29 pm)
Hi I am currently experiencing trouble with my car which includes it idling at low RPMS and dying out. I tried resetting my ECU but I don't know if that worked. I reset because I put an aftermarket air filter and a brand new mass airflow sensor. The codes I am throwing include intake air temp. signal, the airflow meter sensor, and the switch signal code. Does anyone have any idea if this problem is one thing or individual things that need to be fixed?