Last post on Mar 07, 2013 at 11:38 AM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Wagon
#111 of 406 Re: 2001 Subaru Legacy Check Engine Light "N/A" [gilson1]
May 28, 2009 (9:50 am)
As you probably know, it could be a whole lot of things (last but not least one of the many oxygen sensors). Here is a little tip of what you can do to sell or trade it in: Reset the CEL by disconnecting the positive cable from the battery and shorting it for a few seconds to the chassis ground. Then reconnect it. That way the computer is reset and the CEL will be out and it will likely stay out for a few days.
#112 of 406 Re: 2001 Subaru Legacy Check Engine Light "N/A" [dswiss]
May 28, 2009 (10:09 am)
right on dswiss
#113 of 406 Re: 2001 Subaru Legacy Check Engine Light "N/A" [dswiss]
May 28, 2009 (1:21 pm)
Brilliant - dupe the next owner. We certainly need more folks with your mindset in our communities.
#114 of 406 CEL...2005 Outback XT
Jun 03, 2009 (12:44 pm)
After almost five years of trouble free driving I had the CEL flash.
The dealer scanned it and reported Codes P2016-2021 Tumble Position Sensor 1&2 which would cost $611 plus tax to fix.
My local mechanic is going to do the repair for $450 plus tax.
Question: What is a tumble position sensor.
Thanks for all the good advice you've given us over the years.
#115 of 406 Re: 2001 Subaru Legacy Check Engine Light "N/A" [xwesx]
Jun 04, 2009 (1:43 pm)
An additional question regarding the tumble sensor: Is there anything I can do to insure that after I replace these sensors they won't be damaged again. For instance, should I replace my air filter, spark plugs etc.?
#116 of 406 2.5 outback
Jun 29, 2009 (2:54 pm)
i get a code saying misfire cylinder 3. any suggestions?
Jul 08, 2009 (2:59 pm)
I recently got the Check Engine light in my 2001 Subaru Outback. I read the code and got two of them:
P0328 - Knock sensor circuit high input
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
I'm not familiar with a Knock circuit but know it has something to do with ignition. I also know that the cat converter codes can go on an ignition problem. I'm weary to take this to a mechanic shop (since I haven't found a good one yet) and know they'll just try and get me to buy a whole new cat converter.
#118 of 406 Re: P0328/P0420 [simonbones]
Jul 10, 2009 (4:41 pm)
Hey simonbones, a knock sensor is a piezioelectric sensor (when vibrated produces voltage). It's located directly on the engine block (usually right above cyl. 4) and senses misfires (engine knocking). It's odd you didn't get a misfire code, though, has it been running really rough in the past? Usually if it misfires badly enough, it'll knock out your knock sensor (P0328 almost always means the knock sensor is hooped, new one'll cost you anywhere from $180-$350) and consequently the extra fuel from cylinder that isn't firing will overheat and kill your cat (P0420). You could dish out the cash for the knock sensor, then ask around at exhaust shops for options on a new cat (or straight pipe with cheater chip)
#119 of 406 Evap code 1999 OB Ltd. SW
Jul 14, 2009 (5:12 pm)
For almost 2 years my mechanic and I have been trying to fix this problem. We started with the gas cap. Then replaced the filler tube and valve and solenoid. The light stayed off for about 240 miles.
After a smoke test (at another shop) we were told it was the fuel valve solenoid (again), that was replaced along with some canister that was attached to it and falling apart. The light stayed for a bit over 500 miles.
After another smoke test last week (again, different mechanics shop...but same smoke test place), we're told it's the fuel filler tube and valve, again!
I have started smelling gas over the past few months, did not smell it previously.
As someone else mentioned, NYS has an annual safety/emissions test and my mechanic has had to work around my inspections to get the light off so I can drive a certain amount of miles and then hopefully pass the inspection before the light comes on again.
I'd just keeping driving till next spring and inspection time, except for the gas odor which now has me scared.
We also have a Forester and if and when I replace the OB, I will not buy another Subaru, even though we've love them up until this frustrating and expensive experience.
BTW, my mechanic is well-known and respected in our area and I (kind of) have full confidence in him....I have another appt. with him on friday to bring the bugger in. ARGH!