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Dodge Dakota Vibration

15 messages,  Last post on Aug 20, 2008 at 4:46 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Transmission, Truck


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#8 of 15
Still vibrating by tjfitz
Sep 29, 2007 (6:56 pm)
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I installed new Mopar distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs wires.
 
Then after some struggles I got the new long metal brake line installed. In the process I had to lower the fuel tank to get at some of the old line's hangers and in moving the filler hose I broke the plastic of the filler line housing and had to scout around in a junk yard today for another one. That was installed and all well. The bleeding of the brake lines for air went well, too, although I now have two alarms on the dashboard illuminated continuously: "ABS brakes" and "P Brake". I may have to continue bleeding the system because the brake fluid was dirty.
 
I took the pickup out for a spin anyway and found the vibration under load is still there at about 35 mph in drive. In second it also vibrates at 35 mph although at a higher rpm. Shifting into neutral at that speed eliminates the vibration. Revving to high rpm in neutral doesn't cause the vibration.
 
During the test drive, the rpm gauge began sticking and only gentle hammering on the dash would make it move. (The pickup seems to have a death wish!)
 
The idle is very rough and the engine dies at idle unless I disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve.
 
Using the ignition switch, I switched the ignition on and off three times and then left it on the fourth time and got these codes: 12, 12, 13, 14, 14. The information I can find seems to say those codes relate to the MAP or maniford absolute pressure sensor.
#9 of 15
Warning lights sorted by tjfitz
Oct 01, 2007 (2:01 pm)
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I neglected to bleed the "hydraulic valve" on the drivers side above the rear axle. When that got done, the warning lights went out. Brakes are now good. This pickup has rear wheel antilock only.
#10 of 15
Vibration problem solved by tjfitz
Oct 02, 2007 (7:43 pm)
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Yesterday I backed the pickup down the driveway, and as I shifted from park into reverse, there was a distinct "clank".
 
Somewhere in the recesses of memory I recalled that clanking and vibration can be symptoms of a bad universal joint on the driveshaft. This morning I got up early, raised the rear tires off the pavement, supporting the rear axle with two stands and went to work trying to moving the u-joints. I have never done this before, but from what I read, any "give" at all might mean a bad joint, and the rear joint had give. I eventually got the rear joint disconnected from the differential and lowered it then pulled the front of the driveshaft out from the transmission, forgetting that transmission oil would be gushing forth, which it did, all over the driveway before I was able to get one of my wife's cooking pots under the stream.
 
As far as I could see, there were no needle bearings left in the rear joint, so I took shaft and all to a local parts dealer/machine shop and they removed the joints and installed new ones. I put the shaft back into the pickup and added what I think was enough new transmission fluid then took the pickup out on the road.
 
There was no more clank on shifting, and absolutely no more vibration even going as fast as 60 mph. The pickup now runs like a dream.
 
When I asked my daughter how long the pickup had been vibrating before, she said about a year, and her sister had the same problem before she handed the pickup over to her! (That was the first I'd heard of it.)
 
I think the brake line mentioned in an earlier posting in this thread probably failed by vibration fatigue. Also, my daughter drove the pickup from Idaho to North Dakota when she returned home about two weeks ago and about 50 miles from home stopped to rest and the pickup wouldn't re-start. She had to get roadside assistance at about 11 pm from a tow-truck and the driver found that the starter was hanging onto the engine by one loose bolt. I'd say the bolts had probably vibrated loose.
 
"For want of a nail... ."
#11 of 15
Re: Vibration problem solved [tjfitz] by jslack05
Apr 29, 2008 (1:00 pm)
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Replying to: tjfitz (Oct 02, 2007 7:43 pm)

My 1989 Chevy Blazer has the exact same problem and I believe the u-joint may be the solution. how much did it cost you to have it repaired?
#12 of 15
Re: Vibration problem solved [jslack05] by tjfitz
Apr 29, 2008 (2:19 pm)
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Replying to: jslack05 (Apr 29, 2008 1:00 pm)

jslack05, I think the two u-joints (front at the transmission output and rear at the differential) cost about $15 each. I brought the drive shaft with its u-joints to the local machine shop that is attached to the parts dealer. I think it cost $45 to pull the old u-joints and press the new ones on. So that probably makes a total of about $75. Usually I keep all the receipts for any work on my pickup, but I can't find the receipts for this work. Sorry I can't give you better info.
#13 of 15
Re: Vibration problem solved [tjfitz] by jslack05
Apr 29, 2008 (3:53 pm)
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Replying to: tjfitz (Apr 29, 2008 2:19 pm)

ok that sound reasonable, i'm sure it will cost a bit more for me cause i'll need to take it to a mechanic since i don't have the tools to do it myself but thank you for the valuable information.
#14 of 15
2006 harmonic vibration 4.7L by rustycho
Aug 12, 2008 (12:57 pm)
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Have a vibration at 1100-1500 rpm, slight throttle pressure, only in overdrive lock-up, 35-50 mph. Have replaced muffler, resonator, tailpipe, and torque converter - nothing changed. Sounds like exhaust system, but dealer has extensively checked. Any suggestions?
#15 of 15
Re: 2006 harmonic vibration 4.7L [rustycho] by rustycho
Aug 20, 2008 (4:46 pm)
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Replying to: rustycho (Aug 12, 2008 12:57 pm)

Disregard. Sold truck after drivetrain lockup.

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