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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Suburban dies while driving HELP!
21 messages, Last post on Aug 02, 2009 at 11:45 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: gmcrich (Feb 04, 2008 12:41 pm) |
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Replying to: posh (Sep 05, 2007 6:20 pm) |
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Replying to: bigbrian (Feb 06, 2008 12:58 pm) Then, it drove just fine with no problems day after day for a week or so. Then, out of nowhere again, the tac started going crazy and the think started bucking and lurching with my foot on the brake. This "behavior" has happened just after it is started, it happens after it's been running for 20 + minutes without any prior problem, there is no rhyme or reason to it. I can start it and it will run in the driveway for 30 minutes with no problems or I can start it on another day and it wont stay running! It isn't the fuel pump, or the battery. Also, every once in a while when it is having this problem when it shuts off and I go to restart it, it acts as if it isn't going to start. I will have to turn it over several times, and then it will just start. Please, if anyone has ANY ideas I would be thankful. This is my main vehicle (the only one our entire family can fit in) and I have four children with me constantly.....it broke down on me on the INTERSTATE with them all in it. Obviously, I lose my power steering and my brakes don't work right when it happens.......it is EXTREMELY hard to control when it cuts off while I'm driving 65 mph! We've pretty much been house bound (no trips to the doctor because it's 30 minutes away) since this problem began. My mechanic cannot seem to get a code on this problem. It has shut off before and I've just let it sit without attempting to restart it. He hooks up his scanner or computer (small handheld box) and it doesn't throw ANY code at all! Thank you for taking the time to read through this. Cindy 
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Replying to: tiggerchick (Sep 29, 2008 11:10 pm) I'd check first to make sure the main power to the vehicle was perfect. Check the battery, corrosion on the terminals or up in the cables, loose connections, key switch, and any main power relays. Probably the easiest way to begin to analyze this, is to hang a (fused) digital voltmeter off a 'switched' power circuit (a circuit that gets turned on via the ignition switch). Watch what happens to that digital voltage (should be normally about 13.5 volts), when the vehicle has the problem which causes the engine to cut out. If the voltage is perfect and steady, then move your diagnosis to the computer and engine control circuits. If the voltage was jumping around, then you know you have a power problem, and begin to focus there. Move your voltmeter monitoring back to a circuit which is an 'unswitched' (hot all of the time) circuit. If the voltage is fine the next time this happens, then you suspect ignition switch or relay....part of the circuit which is downstream of where you are monitoring. If the voltage is less than perfect, then move your diagnosis upstream toward the battery. Good luck.
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 30, 2008 3:15 am)  ) Thanks for the suggestion, again. I will keep this thread posted. Any other suggestions are also welcomed. Thanks! |
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Replying to: tiggerchick (Sep 29, 2008 11:10 pm) When I would come to a stop at a red light the engine would die. I go to park it the engine would die. And when I put my foot on the gas it would lurch forward. When my engine would die I would lose power steering. I go to start it again it would crank forever and not start. And the whole time it did'nt throw a code at me. After drive it for months like this it finally gave me a code. It was the coolant senser went bad. Check the voltage at the coolant sensor plug with a voltmeter with the key on engine off and it should be 5 volts. To check the coolant senser itself you have to ohm it with an ohmeter. Ohm out the coolant sensor once when the engine is cold and once when the engine is at hot at normal operating temperature. Compare it to the ohm spec of the coolant sensor in a hanyes manuel that you can get at autozone. If the coolant sensor is out of the ohm spec replace it. Or you can have a mechanic check the coolant sensor. I replace the coolant sensor on my suburban and it fixed the problem. Hope this helps later
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Replying to: xamonox (Apr 07, 2009 10:36 pm) |
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| 01 LT Suburban i replaced the battery the truck will be parked over night and in the morning the battery will be very low or dead ihave check a number of times and cant seem to find anything that is running while the truck is off ... is this some kind of short ? | |
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Replying to: xamonox (Apr 07, 2009 10:36 pm) |
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