Last post on Jan 05, 2012 at 5:22 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, Truck
#38 of 87 Re: Driveline Vibration [hoodlatch]
Jan 29, 2010 (10:01 am)
I checked the style of joints that are in the car and they are the cardan style. The mechanic also said that the pinion is not loose and he also removed the wheels to see if they might be out of round in any way but all that was good too.
Do you think that if I raised up the differential off the ground and ran the car at 70 MPH that I could possibly find the source of the problem?
Thanks for your helpful advice.
#39 of 87 Re: Driveline Vibration [phil2252]
Jan 29, 2010 (12:04 pm)
Are you confident your shocks are good? When you had them rebuild and balance your two pice drive shaft did that include a new shaft carrier?
Those shafts are balanced as one. When I put the new one back in my truck I had to make sure I splined it up with the bench marks the shop put on it. Otherwise it would have thrown off the balance.
I have seen in some cases where the spot weld gave way and one of the weights came off.
So far you've indicated:
New drive shaft and balanced twice.
Pinion bearing in good shape.
Tires and wheels in good shape.
Could it have a broken leaf spring or spring mounts come loose some how?
Have you had your truck high centered on a tree stump or something?
If you're going to do the 70mph thing please be careful.
Let us know what you find out.
#40 of 87 Re: Driveline Vibration [hoodlatch]
Jan 29, 2010 (6:34 pm)
Thank you for your interest, I will get back to you as soon as I try the next remedy.
#41 of 87 Re: Driveline Vibration [phil2252]
Jan 29, 2010 (7:06 pm)
I just signed up only because of your post. I wager I know for certain what your problem is--and it is the same for problem all S-10/Sonoma extended cab pickup trucks: The drivetrain is mis-aligned. This is a factory/engineering defect, which GM has failed to rectify. This problem really manifests itself in the Extreme pickups.
I had the same $1000.00 + problem and, after finding on my own the GM Service Bulletin which instructs dealers to grease the centering ball in each of the two "Double Cardan" constant velocity joints on a regular basis (a bandaid fix is all this is), I stumbled on this site http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-Driveshaft-Align.html which shed all the light I needed to resolve the problem.
My truck is a 2000 S-10 Extreme, and installing just the transmission mount spacer and center bearing spacer, I solved all my problems. I have yet to install the shims between the axle and leaf springs; but I need only to grease the two centering balls in the joints every other oil/filter change, and I have had no noise, no breakaway (accelerating from a complete stop) shudder, and no vibration.
Now if only the dealer will accept responsibility for terminally damaging my perfectly good 4.3 with poor work practices, and replace same, I would not be in such a foul mood.
Meanwhile, go to that site, order that kit (or fabricate it yourself--your choice) and grab your tools, and you will no longer have these problems--especially the "howling"sounds that emanate when that centering ball dries up and gets stressed because of the misalignment.
#42 of 87 Re: Driveline Vibration [jshawley]
Jan 29, 2010 (7:34 pm)
Before I rebuilt the drive shaft it would vibrate, accelerating from a stop but it is only vibrating at high speed now. If I accelerate slowly up to 70 MPH sometimes it will not vibrate to bad but as soon as it starts to vibrate I have to slow down to stop it. There is no sound associated with it just a vibration.
Does the dealer recommend the spacer you installed?
#43 of 87 Re: shever me timbers [aeunice]
Jan 29, 2010 (8:16 pm)
to everyone out there with the vibrations, i had the same problem with my 1995 sonoma. rotated tires balanced tires. i even put in new ujoints and carrier bearings, still vibrates. a driveshaft place said the yokes were bad and suggested making a one piece driveshaft. it took about 4 hours to make and about three hundred dollars. it took care of the problem. finally i can drive down the road without the vibrations and noise.
#44 of 87 vibration
Jan 30, 2010 (9:22 am)
Interesting post on vibration. Back in 2000 I test drove a extended cab and first thing I noticed was the vibration, mentioned it to the salesman and no comment. Later I learned the fix was the one piece drive shaft as monson stated.
#45 of 87 Re: shever me timbers [monson]
Jan 30, 2010 (5:12 pm)
I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for the reply. The car ran perfect when I bought it brand new and I can't imagine what could be wrong with it if the wheels, tires and drive shaft are all new and the pinion it good. I will take your advice into consideration if it is vibrating when I lift up the differential off the ground on blocks with the wheels off and it is still vibrating. The weather is bad this weekend but as soon as it clears up I will get back to you.
#46 of 87 Re: shever me timbers [phil2252]
Jan 31, 2010 (9:38 am)
i couldnt figure it out either basically no one could. it wasnt until the guy who worked on my truck spoke to the driveshaft place. the guy who worked on my truck couldnt. dont know it the problem will solve everybodys but i have the two piece driveshaft. the yolks were bad so t hey couldnt balance it. they suggested the one piece. i drove it down the interstate last night at 70 and had no noise or vibration. ive been putting up with it for about five months
#47 of 87 93 S10 driveshaft
Feb 03, 2010 (12:39 pm)
Truck was recently purchased. 93 S10 Extended cab 4X4 short bed. Rear end started to howl, replaced with identical complete rear end and noticed when installing the drive shaft (1 piece) it was to tight, had to pry the reared back to get the universal joint in place. It was jammed between the transfer case and the rear differential, which would cause excessive pressure on the ring and pinion and eventual failure of the rear end. I found and ordered another drive shaft on eBay from a GMC the same year, body style, and engine as mine. When received, it is a two-piece with a center bearing. The one in the vehicle didn't have a center bearing nor does it have cross member to mount too. Does anyone know what the correct length of the drive shaft is? The original drive shaft that came out of it was 58", I am guessing the correct length should be somewhere between 56 and 57 .5 inches. Can anyone confirm this, and tell me where I can get one????Engine is a 4.3 Vortex, not sure of the transmission/transfer case. There are holes in the frame that look like a frame cross member could bolt into at the correct location to center the mounting of the center support bearing. I do not have a cross member there.
It appears that a previous owner had put a lift kit on the truck then took it back off before I got it some brackets had been welded onto the frame at the suspension mounting areas but have been removed. That is probably the reason for the extra long drive shaft originally in the truck when I got it. We dropped the rear leaf springs when we originally replaced the differential and didn't notice how tight the drive shaft was any ideas or help would be appreciated