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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Vibrations

35 messages,  Last post on Aug 16, 2009 at 8:26 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, Truck


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#1 of 35
Bad Vibration!!! by bstep1971
Sep 01, 2007 (9:10 pm)
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Wow. 03 4.3l v6, xcab sls.
 
I have had a vibration for the past year. Seems like the past few weeks it is getting worse. I took it today to get the wheels balanced, but nope, still there. Now it is accomponied by a rattling noise under the truck, which maybe totally coincidental.
 
Seems that the vibration really kicks in at 20-22 mph, then levels, and then again at around 40-42 mph.
 
When I purchased this vehicle used w/48,000 miles, it had been lowered a bit. I noticed this "vibration" and took it back to the dealership, which they replaced the driveshaft. But, it never really helped.
 
Has anyone else dealt with this issue?
#2 of 35
Re: Bad Vibration!!! [bstep1971] by hoodlatch
Sep 02, 2007 (5:25 pm)
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Replying to: bstep1971 (Sep 01, 2007 9:10 pm)

Do you know if it has ever been in an accident? When it was lowered could it have some part of the exhaust system making contact with the frame or running gear? One of the posters had a vibration he traced to a loose yoke. Some times a bad motor mount causes a vibration. Good luck.
#3 of 35
Re: Bad Vibration!!! [hoodlatch] by bstep1971
Sep 02, 2007 (7:29 pm)
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Sep 02, 2007 5:25 pm)

as far as I know, the carfax showed "nothing".
 
My gf's stepfather looked at it today (he works in service at a GM dealership). When he drove it, he immediatly said CV Joint. The loud vibration, and I mean, loud as in, I have to turn up my stereo LOUDER to hear it, and my rear view mirror vibrates, is coming from under the seats/floorboard area. From what I can tell, there is a double u-joint in the middle. It has to be the CV/driveshaft. I do not know what else it could be! I know its not transmission or tires, so that leaves only this. Any thoughts?
#4 of 35
Re: Bad Vibration!!! [bstep1971] by hoodlatch
Sep 03, 2007 (1:21 pm)
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Replying to: bstep1971 (Sep 02, 2007 7:29 pm)

CV joint's are on 4x4's in the front. The rear drive has the double u-joint you mentioned called a Cardan joint (expensive). The rear drive shaft is held in place with a center bearing. When any of the above goes out it will give the symptoms your describing. Kinda like a helicopter taking off. It can get bad enough to knock out the pinion seal and bearing. It isn't hard to trouble shoot and isolate once it's up on the car rack. Maybe your gf's stepfather can recommend a reliable shop. Of course, usually the most expensive kind of repair facility are the dealerships. Good luck.
#5 of 35
Re: Bad Vibration!!! [hoodlatch] by bstep1971
Sep 04, 2007 (3:26 pm)
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Sep 03, 2007 1:21 pm)

Your right about the CV's.
 
What was found was a couple of items:
 
1. The center support bracket was not a match. It was put on "elsewhere", and much thinner than stock.
 
2. Slight bend in rear shaft.
 
(ujoints ok, nothing major)
 
3. Sorry if I do not know the name of this, but the part that comes out of the transfer case in the rear, that bolts up to the rear driveshaft, was stripped, and needs to be replaced.
 
4. also a seal where the front driveline meets up to the transmission is bad and needs replaced.
 
I get it back tommorow, hopefully this takes care of it.
#6 of 35
Re: Bad Vibration!!! [bstep1971] by bstep1971
Sep 05, 2007 (7:16 pm)
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Replying to: bstep1971 (Sep 04, 2007 3:26 pm)

FYI, fixed, as stated above FINALLY, NO MORE VIBRATIONS!
#7 of 35
engine vibration by cdenver
Nov 07, 2007 (10:02 am)
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I have a 1994 S10 pickup with the 4.3 engine. I have noticed recently that when the engine is cold I can feel vibrations coming from the engine compartment. I have replaced the IAC valve, but it still is rough til it warmsa up. broken engine mount? No vibes at higher rpms. Idle speed is about 850-900. Any suggestions. c-denvercox.net
#8 of 35
Re: engine vibration [cdenver] by philscbx
Nov 12, 2007 (10:42 pm)
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Replying to: cdenver (Nov 07, 2007 10:02 am)

Verify all cylinders are firing when cold.
 
Pre loosen all plug wires, start it up and lift off each wire from the plug to see if RPM drops.
 
If RPM does not drop, there is your dead plug, wire, or bad valve.
As the engine warms, the valve may make a better seal, as it does when revved up.
 
Swap out the wire to a different plug to see if condition follows it.
 
An OHM meter will verify the wire.
 
A compression test will verify valve, even better is a Leak Down Tester. This tool will show you where the air is leaking from when both valves are closed.
The air will escape out 3 possibilities, the oil fill - Bad Rings, the exhaust pipe - bad valve, or the intake at the throttle - Bad Valve.
 
This tool requires an air compressor and piston at top dead center on compression stroke.
 
You didn't mention how many miles.
Mine has 177,000 and does not burn any oil and runs perfect.
That's from being very fussy about it all like racing.
#9 of 35
Replacing drivers side mirror by corinne1
Nov 24, 2007 (11:58 am)
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I am trying to remove the dirvers inside door panel to replace the mirror and cannot get the panel off due to the door opening handel. anyone know how to remove the panel?
#10 of 35
Chevy s10 Bad vibration by david23we45
Feb 07, 2008 (4:07 pm)
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I own a 2000 s10 extreme
it has a bad vibration in all speeds
i checked the U joints and they seem tight to me
and it has a fresh tranny rebuild
i raised the rear of the truck to check the rear end
on the passenger side of the truck i can grab the tire and it moves in and out anywhere from an eighth to a quarter inch
the drivers side is tight
Does this mean the axle bearing on the inside needs replaced and could this be the cause of the vibration?

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