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Vans & Minivans Chevy Venture Venture Engines
26 messages, Last post on Jan 05, 2009 at 3:26 PM
You are in the Chevy Venture Forum. Your Host is Karens
I have a 2000 Chevy Venture with 90000 miles on it, it has been making a ticking noise and my husband assumed it was a bad lifter and he put new lifters in and the ticking was still there. He was given the advice to cut the oil filter open and look to see if there were metal shavings in it, well there is, and my question is, is it always doom and gloom and your engine is going bad when there is a lot of metal shavings in the oil filter. This is making me sick, we still owe 3000 dollars on it and now have to deal with possibly having to put a new engine in it. The thing is, it still runs great, just the ticking. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Replying to: jlad31 (Nov 22, 2007 6:12 am) What was most interesting was the engine was almost as clean as the day it was built. I used Mobil 1 synthetic 5x30 oil. I also inspected the crankshaft and rod bearings and they were okay. I did not pull the heads (leave well enough alone). I did NOT change the lifters as they seemed to be okay. In otherwords there was no obvious wear or damage on them and when I pushed down on them, they held pressure. One of them was a bit suspicious, but after soaking it in oil, it pumped up. The engine now seems to run quieter and I feel confident it should see me for another couple of years. This engine also has what is called "piston slap" which mimics the lifter sound. Chevy says it is not a problem. It is found on several GM engines to include new 454 V8s. A design problem where the skirt of the piston hits the side of the cylinder wall and makes noise. If the noise you hear goes away within a few minutes during warmup it could be the slap, but DO NOT count on it. Chevy may say it is okay, but I would like to see if a Chevy executive drives one with that noise!!! A neighbor of mine had a new 2000 Chevy/GMC big dually truck with the noise and it drove him crazy. So what would I advise? First, if you have high miles (75k++, then you should expect to make some repairs. Second, are you using any coolant? That is a symptom that the intake and/or cylinder head gaskets are leaking. This is almost guaranteed to happen on this engine. Mine went out at 115k (previous owner took the hit). It allows anti-freeze to get into the oil and start to ruin the bearings. It may have ruined my cam bearings. You may have a problem checking the coolant level since it is read at the coolant recovery tank on the driver side of the engine. Most of the tanks are filthy dirty so you can't see the level. It comes off real easy. Clean it out and refill. Mine was filthy and it looked okay from the outside. Next, when was the last time you changed anti-freeze? GM dexcool turns to mud if not cleaned periodically. GM says 5 years. That is a stretch. Take off the radiator cap and look at it. If it looks like it has chocolate on it, it means your anti-freeze is gone and should be flushed out (to include heater cores). In reading the internet, NO ONE likes dexcool. I took the advice of some and went back to good old green anti-freeze. GMC says it will only work for 2 years. There is a lot of data that seems to support that dexcool eats gaskets causing problems. GMC says it is lack of maintenance and not dexcool. It is your guess, but if you see dirty dexcool you will not be impressed. I never had that problem with old green. So do you take your chances with a noise and metal shavings? You are probably looking at $3000 to rebuild the engine (not at GMC dealer) and maybe $2000 to pull the engine, tear it down like I did and fix what can be fixed short of a rebuild. The cost of an engine rebuild parts kit is about $800 and that does not include cams and lifters. So the cost of labor is not that unreasonable. If you run it till it goes. At least use synthetic oil 5 x30, change the anti-freeze NOW (and flush the old), get the coolant system pressure checked. |
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Guys - high mileage is not 75k + I have 225,000 miles on a 1999 3.4 V6. I ran 10W-30 during the winter, and straight 30W during the summer, once the mileage hit 150,000 You dont need to run synthetic with these engines. Its about viscosity, not the base oil, especially if you change your oil at less than 10,000 mile intervals 5W-30 gets you fuel economy, but you lose life. This engine has had a tick since 100,000 miles. It still starts well, and runs about 30,000 miles per year. If you are worried about the noise, run a higher viscosity oil . It will limit the noise and provide a higher level of protection for your engine Jon
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Replying to: jagular911 (Mar 24, 2008 5:06 pm)
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Replying to: paprius4030 (Mar 26, 2008 3:34 am) 
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Need help determining were the hoses are located for heater core on 2000 venture no heat but stll over heating. Changed stat and radiator cap already water pump seems OK Thanks R.Karch
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Replying to: rkarch (Aug 26, 2008 11:18 am) |
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| Thanks for your help, I did not bleed the air at first but then I did. It did not solve the problem. Anymore suggestions | |
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Just a bit of information for those in the 100,000 mile area. Start checking the alignment of the belt. The pulley is made in two parts with a rubber piece separating the two. This gets old and the pulley starts to come apart. The first sign of a failure will be wear on the belt. This is an easy fix through the passenger side wheel well with common sockets and a puller. Cost FROM DEALER ONLY is around $125.00. If you look at the pulley face the two pieces of the pulley that are metal should be even with each other. |
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