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Vans & Minivans Pontiac Montana Pontiac Montana Air Shock Problems
23 messages, Last post on Apr 02, 2009 at 12:59 PM
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Replying to: pnssurfer (Aug 27, 2007 8:33 pm) I have a 2005 with the same problem. |
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Replying to: pnssurfer (Aug 27, 2007 8:33 pm) He recommended pulling the fuse for the compressor, so I did. The rear suspension has been fine, and I haven't thought about it since. Its in the fuse panel inside the passenger door, a 20amp fuse marked "ELC".
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Replying to: 24randyo (Apr 24, 2008 5:38 pm) |
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Hi All, I have looked at this system and found some issues you should all look at. Disclaimers and notices: I will run through what can go wrong and hopefully this will help. Make sure the fuse in the fuse panel is removed when doing all repairs on the air compressor. At 25amps the shock may do some real harm to your hands or electrical system. Also do not get under your car unless the air bag system pressure is released. Do not decapitate yourself! Online Help The electrical diagram is available at autozone.com. Just look up the Relay and look for the additional info button. OR Link: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280095d90 Parts: Axle sensor switch- Attached to the rear axle via a small linkage. This part can be crushed or hit by on-coming debris and other unforeseen items when driving. It can also be water logged when driving through deep water or say putting a boat in the water. Make sure linkage is in good condition and using a continuity tester can be tested to see if it is still functioning. You will have to remove the linkage and harness. Replacement difficulty = easy = Rear shocks- Using an air bag reservoir these are simple shocks with a built in air bladder that lifts the car. Works similar to a coil over setup and uses a secondary spring for added support. They usually ware out at 85k to 100k. Any oil visible around the bottom of the rubber bag or air inlet = shock failure. $50 bucks for a replacement pair. Replacement difficulty = med. to easy = Rear Air lines- Only using a clip for attachment, a dental tool or pair of needle nose pliers will take them off as they are very similar to a compression fitting. When inspecting clean all the rubber o-rings at the end of the connector with Windex and grease with silicone or die-electric grease. This will help keep the o-rings supple and air tight. **Check the driver’s side lines for abrasion by the wheel-well. All or most of the line failures occur here.** If it is bad it can be replaced with a $8 kit from the parts store. Replacement difficulty = easy = Air compressor- To remove, disconnect all wire harness connections and 4 bolts holding the bracket cradle that isolates the compressor from the chases of the vehicle. Loosen and remove all air connections from the dryer and pull the air feed tube and filter from its hole in the frame. Use wd-40, or your favorite lube, to insure you do not break off any of the bolts. By disassembling and removing the 8mm bolts you can clean out all the ports in the head and re-grease the various moving valves and such. The side panel can come off and with a large flat-head screwdriver. You can take off the crankshaft screw that holds the piston in. Be careful, the piston has needle bearings do not lose them. The grease used is high quality silicone based grease. Contact your local air compressor repair-shop and see what they use. Castrol makes a high quality silicone bearing grease that I used but for the amount used; it’s a tad pricey. You can with some degree of difficulty remove the back shell of the electric motor by prying it open. You can then, clean and lube it with light oil for better performance. Make sure you use a good sealant putting it back together. You can service the whole compressor, but usually if they fail. The bearings then are burnt and there is nothing you can do. Replacement difficulty = easy = Overhaul cleaning and re-lube = medium =
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Replying to: akashmer (Oct 06, 2008 12:22 pm) Thanks
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Replying to: gtrouty (Nov 18, 2008 9:28 am) Garbrel makes a better version but you will need to splice lines and make adapters as the air fittings are different. No change in load cap.
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My Venture 2000 Ext. the shocks it dosen't lift or work, the EVA fuse is ok I wuld like to know if it has an automatic level how looks and were is it? i thing this is hapend after I wash my van and that night start chilli cold wether. How much is it the pice level and the pump y or I have to go whit the Dealer to bay one. Tks. When I drive my van I feel ride an mule.
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Replying to: akashmer (Jan 16, 2009 9:53 am) |
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I am wondering if anyone has experienced this issue and how they solved it. about a month ago my 2007 montana was into the shop because (we assumed) the rear shocks were bad.they replaced a broken front link but that did not address the problem. i left it at the shop overnight-where it was kept in a heated garage and in the morning the problem was gone. the technician stated that the problem was that the air compressor was over inflating the shocks, which was causing the noise and that the problem may have been a switch or sensor(?) that was froze over with ice with our cold MN weather. having it in the heated garage probably melted the ice and allowed this sensor to work properly. I have had no problems since until yesterday when i noticed the noise is coming back. since i don't have a heated garage to "thaw" it out i am wondering if this is common and how to fix the problem. is this any easy fix (meaning hubby can do it) or is it going to require another repair bill-i have followed these boards for years and learned much, so any help anyone can offer now is appreciated
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I have a 99 Montana that had a leaking shock and I replaced both of them myself with GM parts. I checked online and called the dealer to make sure that the shocks were correct for the model and year. Replacement was fairly easy although the the new shocks used different air hose connectors. The compressor runs right and the level is the same as before but now the ride is very rough. I can feel every bump and crack in the road pavement. The thumping got so loud that I thought the rear hatch was unlatched. Is there a way to adjust them for a smoother ride? These new shocks look like they are more for trucks, which the Montana technically is, but they are what the dealer specified. The only thing different in the install was that the original had the hose connector facing to the rear of the car and the instructions in the package said to install face forward. I installed it faced back and only read instructions after tightening the bolts.  . I don't think this should matter but ... Anyone know how to adjust the shocks? Thanks. BTW, I wanted to replace both shocks and so ordered quantity 2. The packaged shocks came in pairs and so I have an extra pair now. I wonder if I should buy another Montana to use the other pair on? Or anyone need a new pair? 30% off dealer price.
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