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Pontiac Montana Air Shock Problems

23 messages,  Last post on Apr 02, 2009 at 12:59 PM

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#1 of 23 Air Shock Problems by pnssurfer Aug 27, 2007 (8:33 pm)
I have a 2000 Pontiac Montana with 100k miles. As of today, the air ride rear shocks are extended in the highest setting. When I turn off the ignition I can hear the air ride compressor kick in but the rear shocks do not disengage and the rear of the vehicle remains "jacked up" Any suggestions? Replies to this message: riggs312 (Oct 29, 2007 2:00 pm) miket6 (Apr 24, 2008 4:20 am) 24randyo (Apr 24, 2008 5:38 pm) r705271 (Jul 08, 2008 12:51 pm)
#2 of 23 Re: Air Shock Problems [pnssurfer] by riggs312 Oct 29, 2007 (2:00 pm)
Replying to: pnssurfer (Aug 27, 2007 8:33 pm) I have a 98 Pontiac Montana/Transport. I have a similar problem. When I get out of the van, the air ride compressor runs for up to 10 minutes. I have found a small lever connected to the compressor. If I crawl under the van, and move the lever down, the compressor will stop. I'm not sure WHAT needs to be replaced...compressor, box w/ lever, or what....   Any suggestions??
#3 of 23 20003 montana air shocks by wilfa Nov 12, 2007 (9:42 pm)
I have a 2003 montana and i dont think my air pump is working how can i check this
#4 of 23 Re: Air Shock Problems [pnssurfer] by miket6 Apr 24, 2008 (4:20 am)
Replying to: pnssurfer (Aug 27, 2007 8:33 pm) Wondering if you ever found out the problem with your air shocks ? I have a 2005 with the same problem.
#5 of 23 Re: Air Shock Problems [pnssurfer] by 24randyo Apr 24, 2008 (5:38 pm)
Replying to: pnssurfer (Aug 27, 2007 8:33 pm) I have a 98 Trans Sport Montana. The compressor would run almost continuously, but it wasn't really "jacked up", so I figured it the shocks were leaking. Called a Pontiac dealer and explained the situation, he said it could be the shocks, hoses or the compressor itself leaking. Just to tear it apart and have a look would be $200.00, and then depending on what it was, could be $2000.00 to fix.   He recommended pulling the fuse for the compressor, so I did. The rear suspension has been fine, and I haven't thought about it since. Its in the fuse panel inside the passenger door, a 20amp fuse marked "ELC". Replies to this message: r705271 (Jul 08, 2008 12:51 pm)
#6 of 23 Re: Air Shock Problems [24randyo] by r705271 Jul 08, 2008 (12:51 pm)
Replying to: 24randyo (Apr 24, 2008 5:38 pm) I also have a 98 transport. The air comp doesn't come on any more. I've checked the fuses and none of them have been burnt. Any suggestions?
#7 of 23 Air shock over view. by akashmer Oct 06, 2008 (12:22 pm)
Hi All, I have looked at this system and found some issues you should all look at.   Disclaimers and notices: I will run through what can go wrong and hopefully this will help. Make sure the fuse in the fuse panel is removed when doing all repairs on the air compressor. At 25amps the shock may do some real harm to your hands or electrical system. Also do not get under your car unless the air bag system pressure is released. Do not decapitate yourself!   Online Help The electrical diagram is available at autozone.com. Just look up the Relay and look for the additional info button. OR Link: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280095d90   Parts: Axle sensor switch- Attached to the rear axle via a small linkage. This part can be crushed or hit by on-coming debris and other unforeseen items when driving. It can also be water logged when driving through deep water or say putting a boat in the water. Make sure linkage is in good condition and using a continuity tester can be tested to see if it is still functioning. You will have to remove the linkage and harness. Replacement difficulty = easy =   Rear shocks- Using an air bag reservoir these are simple shocks with a built in air bladder that lifts the car. Works similar to a coil over setup and uses a secondary spring for added support. They usually ware out at 85k to 100k. Any oil visible around the bottom of the rubber bag or air inlet = shock failure. $50 bucks for a replacement pair. Replacement difficulty = med. to easy =   Rear Air lines- Only using a clip for attachment, a dental tool or pair of needle nose pliers will take them off as they are very similar to a compression fitting. When inspecting clean all the rubber o-rings at the end of the connector with Windex and grease with silicone or die-electric grease. This will help keep the o-rings supple and air tight. **Check the driver’s side lines for abrasion by the wheel-well. All or most of the line failures occur here.** If it is bad it can be replaced with a $8 kit from the parts store. Replacement difficulty = easy =   Air compressor- To remove, disconnect all wire harness connections and 4 bolts holding the bracket cradle that isolates the compressor from the chases of the vehicle. Loosen and remove all air connections from the dryer and pull the air feed tube and filter from its hole in the frame.   Use wd-40, or your favorite lube, to insure you do not break off any of the bolts. By disassembling and removing the 8mm bolts you can clean out all the ports in the head and re-grease the various moving valves and such. The side panel can come off and with a large flat-head screwdriver. You can take off the crankshaft screw that holds the piston in. Be careful, the piston has needle bearings do not lose them. The grease used is high quality silicone based grease. Contact your local air compressor repair-shop and see what they use. Castrol makes a high quality silicone bearing grease that I used but for the amount used; it’s a tad pricey. You can with some degree of difficulty remove the back shell of the electric motor by prying it open. You can then, clean and lube it with light oil for better performance. Make sure you use a good sealant putting it back together.   You can service the whole compressor, but usually if they fail. The bearings then are burnt and there is nothing you can do.    Replacement difficulty = easy = Overhaul cleaning and re-lube = medium = Replies to this message: gtrouty (Nov 18, 2008 9:28 am) akashmer (Jan 16, 2009 9:53 am) gtrouty (Jan 20, 2009 5:50 pm)
#8 of 23 Re: Air shock over view. [akashmer] by gtrouty Nov 18, 2008 (9:28 am)
Replying to: akashmer (Oct 06, 2008 12:22 pm) My air shocks are leaking and I want to replace them. Short of purchasing them at a GM dealer, where can I find the part numbers and where can I order them? Can I replace them with after market air shocks from NAPA? What is the load capacity differnece?   Thanks Replies to this message: akashmer (Jan 16, 2009 9:53 am) gtrouty (Jan 20, 2009 5:50 pm)
#9 of 23 Re: Air shock over view. [gtrouty] by akashmer Jan 16, 2009 (9:53 am)
Replying to: gtrouty (Nov 18, 2008 9:28 am) Are you sure? leaking air or Oil?. Anyway look up you own part numbers, rock auto or Whatever, Monroe are the OEM drop in. Garbrel makes a better version but you will need to splice lines and make adapters as the air fittings are different.   No change in load cap. Replies to this message: gtrouty (Jan 20, 2009 5:50 pm)
#10 of 23 air shocks Venture 2000 Ex by martino41 Jan 16, 2009 (7:51 pm)
My Venture 2000 Ext. the shocks it dosen't lift or work, the EVA fuse is ok I wuld like to know if it has an automatic level how looks and were is it? i thing this is hapend after I wash my van and that night start chilli cold wether. How much is it the pice level and the pump y or I have to go whit the Dealer to bay one. Tks. When I drive my van I feel ride an mule. Replies to this message: akashmer (Feb 16, 2009 10:16 am)

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