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Dodge Dakota Radiator and Cooling Issues

59 messages,  Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 3:13 AM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#37 of 59
Re: Flushing procedure for '97 Dakota 2WD [tommy97] by dustyk
Jan 27, 2009 (7:36 pm)
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Replying to: tommy97 (Jan 26, 2009 7:01 am)

No, I've not heard of the product. However, the industry has used other cleaning-type products for a long time.
 
I worked in a radiator shop for a year and we typically backflushed heater cores and entire systems without using a chemical additive with good success. Occasionally some vehicles did need a cleanser.
 
Dodge used heater cores and air conditioning condensers and evaporators in their trucks from Harrison in the lates ninties and these were trouble prone.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#38 of 59
Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve by tommy97
Feb 03, 2009 (12:50 pm)
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This is for the '97 Dakota Sport 2WD
 
Heater:
Does anybody know for a fact whether the control knob/key position actuates
a solenoid valve, etc. to allow hot water to flow/not flow thru the heater
core? Something inside me says there should be such a control. Otherwise,
when driving thru Death Valley in August, even though the AC is turned on,
hot water is circulating under the dash board! On the other hand, when I
recently isolated and flushed said heater core, I could find no such
position of control knob/ key position that seemed to prevent water from
circulating thru the core. In other words, once I got it flushed out, water
flowed through it no matter what the position of any knob/switches (and
whether the ignition key was on or removed).
 
Radiator drain valve:
Along with my heater core clogging, it turned out that the radiator drain
valve was also clogged - so much that nary a drop would drain out when
"opened". When I looked at the valve, the "rib" on the plastic knob was
vertical. It would only turn counterclockwise 1/4 of a turn, where it
seemed to hit a stop. I presume this horizontal position of the rib is the
open position. Does anybody know of a physical trick that can be done to
clear out the drain valve? I tried fishing a small wire up in the valve
opening (it's hard to get to), but no luck.
 
Any help is appreciated!
#39 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [tommy97] by dustyk
Feb 04, 2009 (7:24 pm)
Reply

Replying to: tommy97 (Feb 03, 2009 12:50 pm)

Your observation is correct. Engine coolant circulates through the heater core at all times. Air flow through the heater core is controled by a mode door which directs air through the HVAC housing. Automakers at one time did use a flow control valve on the input side to cut-off the flow of coolant to the heater core. That design practice was abandoned in favor of the current manner, in part to reduce the number of components in the system, and also to remove an often troublesome, high failure part. When I did auto repair service full time, these control valves were a common source of leaks.
 
Be sure you've got the drain cock open all the way. The plastic drain cocks on Mopar radiators work real hard. I haven't run across one yet that has a clogged drain cock. I suspect you may not have the valve open all the way.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#40 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [dustyk] by tommy97
Feb 05, 2009 (5:32 am)
Reply

Replying to: dustyk (Feb 04, 2009 7:24 pm)

Thanks for your reply, Dusty. Since posting this, I also managed to get confirmation from a couple Dodge truck service managers that - in the Dakota - there is no valve controlling the water flow thru the core. And as you said, earlier automobile models did have stop/diverter valves to prevent hot water from flowing thru the core in summer months. My dad's '63 Chevy pickup was exactly this way.
 
As for the radiator drain valve, I'm now 95% sure that I didn't open the valve correctly. After turning it 1/4 turn counterclockwise, I believe I'm supposed to then pull it out (using, for example, micro channel-locks). I didn't do this last step and so probably never got the valve in an OPEN state. In the near future, I plan to go thru all this again and - this time - try carefully pulling on the plastic valve cap to open it. How does that sound?
#41 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [tommy97] by dustyk
Feb 05, 2009 (4:10 pm)
Reply

Replying to: tommy97 (Feb 05, 2009 5:32 am)

Yeah, after I responded to you I thought maybe you weren't pulling on the drain cock. I think you might have to press inward slightly before pulling outwards.
 
Good luck,
Dusty
#42 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [dustyk] by tommy97
Feb 05, 2009 (4:20 pm)
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Replying to: dustyk (Feb 05, 2009 4:10 pm)

Dusty,
 
Could I please ask one more "bonus" question?
 
Back to your earlier comment, supposing I was interested at some point in doing a "high pressure flush" - could you please tell me where I'd find the "freeze" plugs on the engine block? How many are there? Are they hard to find? One on each side? 1/4" NPT?
 
Any advice is appreciated.
#43 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [tommy97] by seventy7
Feb 06, 2009 (10:18 am)
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Replying to: tommy97 (Feb 05, 2009 4:20 pm)

Check out an old post of mine to help find the freeze plug and radiator drain valve locations.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee99556/2478
#44 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [tommy97] by dustyk
Feb 06, 2009 (9:13 pm)
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Replying to: tommy97 (Feb 05, 2009 4:20 pm)

You are asking about freeze plugs while referring to performing a pressure flush. Freeze plugs are are round disk-like pieces of steel that fit into various places on a engine block to fill holes that are required during the casting process.
 
I think what you are asking for are the drain plugs. There are two on a 4.7 motor, one on each side of the engine block about midway between the oil pan rail and the bottom edge of the cylinder head.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#45 of 59
Re: Heater Question & Clogged radiator drain valve [dustyk] by tommy97
Feb 07, 2009 (7:47 am)
Reply

Replying to: dustyk (Feb 06, 2009 9:13 pm)

Dusty - you are right: my bad. Soon after I posted my question, I realized I misspoke in referring to them as "freeze plugs". Of course, I meant the drain plugs.
 
Per seventy7's advice, I reviewed the post here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee99556/2478
 
Though the post involved a different truck (4.7L 4X4 vs. my 3.9L Dokota Sport), I was able to pick up on a couple useful things. Laying under my pickup, I readily spotted the 9/16" plug on the driver's side. This one is easy to get to - just the opposite of the arrangement seventy7 described for his 4X4.
 
On the passenger side of my Dakota, I didn't readily spot the plug. I may have to put it up on ramps and try to find it again after a bit of "attitude adjustment".
#46 of 59
Practical problem w/ drain plugs in the '97 Dakota engine block by tommy97
Feb 09, 2009 (7:31 am)
Reply
This is a follow-on point to an earlier thread I started here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f150267
 
This post is really informational only, and I decided to start a new one in order that it might be seen by those wanting to do an effective "High Pressure" coolant flush on their Dakota.
 
As revealed in the thread cited above, there are 2 drain plugs (9/16" hex heads) - one on each side of the block. The one on the driver's side is rather obvious - it sits just behind the water pump and is easy to get to. The other one was troublesome to find. After searching a while, I decided to presume symmetry to help me find it. With this in mind, the good news is that the plugs are symmetrical and the passenger-side plug also sits just behind the water pump.
 
That's where the good news ends.
 
To my complete dismay, 3/16" above the head of the passenger-side plug sits a large bracket for the right-side engine mount! The interference this creates requires that the engine mount be removed before this plug can be removed. (Of course, no one in their right mind would do that.) I was so astounded by this that I actually took closeup digital pictures to convince any disbelievers. Unfortunately, this otherwise great posting template does not accommodate uploading of pictures, so you'll have to take my word for it. Bottom line: for all practical purposes, one one of the 2 drain plugs in the engine block (driver's side only) can be removed for a good coolant flush.
 
Whenever I see something like this, I get philosophical. I start thinking things like - the Dodge engine designers and the chassis designers work in 2 different buildings - never talk to each other and never know each other. It also confirms a thought I've had for many years: the aforementioned highly-paid mechanical engineers never actually do maintenance on the vehicles themselves.

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