Last post on Feb 11, 2012 at 6:09 PM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#14 of 33 Re: ford ranger coolant temp gauge [rangerman1998]
Feb 11, 2008 (5:26 pm)
you should chek the thermostat,i had the same problem ,i repaced the thrnostat and no more problem
#15 of 33 Ford Ranager Radiator Pressure
Nov 12, 2008 (5:03 pm)
I have replace the thermostat, flushed it 3 times, radiator cap, and still the system builds pressure while driving to blow the lid off the reserve tank. The temp gauge will be normal then start going in reverse to the cold side and at that point it blows the lid off the reserve tank and sprays coolant all over. Does anyone have an idea why it is doing this please?
#16 of 33 Re: Ford Ranager Radiator Pressure [svacik]
Oct 09, 2009 (7:03 pm)
Svacik....Did you find out anything about yout problem???? I'm having the same thing happing to my 98 ranger! Let me know.....Phil printman716aol.com
Oct 09, 2009 (7:15 pm)
This Is happing to my truck too......everybody saying things to do.....and I have done everything they are saying and still the system builds pressure while driving and blowing the lid off the reserve tank. The temp gauge will be normal then start going in reverse to the cold side. I get warm heat. I need someone that had this happen to them and fixed It. I mean no offence to anybody but this in gonna cost me my truck. I'm gonna dump It, but I like it alot. H.E.L.P. Please......Phil printman716aol.com
#18 of 33 This Ranger Of Mine.....Click Click.....BOOM!!!
Oct 11, 2009 (5:46 am)
I'm at my wits end! Does anybody know what the .... going on with this truck? I replaced everything, the cap, thermostat, control knobs, hoses, flushed 3 times, and still temp gauge goes up and down and no heat, it used to build pressure and back out the tank but that stopped. I found the Consumer Guide Review on this and this is what it says to do. Question Is did anybody have this problem and fixed It!?!?
Accessory belt: Squealing serpentine drive belt due to faulty water pump pulley on 4.6L V6 engine. (2001)
Air conditioner: The air-conditioner hose may rub against the radiator hose and one, or both, develop
Audio system: The in-tank fuel pump causes a whining or buzzing noise to come through the radio
Battery: The battery tray may have burrs that cut into the battery causing it to leak and eventually fail.
Engine misfire: Hesitation or surging when accelerating is caused by a faulty mass airflow sensor. (1998-
Engine misfire: The truck may feel like it is thumping or jerking under acceleration due to a problem with
the driveshaft requiring replacement. (1998-99)
Heater core: Installing a restrictor in the heater inlet hose may repair heater cores leaks. (1998-2002)
Timing belt: The timing chain on 4.0-liter V6 may make noise in hard acceleration. A repair kit is available.
Transmission problems: Transmission flare when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear is due to shift solenoid
Vehicle noise: A hammering noise occurs due to steam forming in the cooling system requiring a coolant bypass
retrofit kit. (1998-00)
Please let me know....Phil
#19 of 33 Re: Temp Gauge Problem Ford Ranger
Feb 16, 2010 (6:39 am)
Phil.. did you ever figure out what the problem was? I'm having a similar problem. I have 99 ranger 3.0. I had my coolent system flushed and a new thermostat put in about 3 years ago. Nothing wrong with the old one, just wanted a new one put in. I put the same type thermostat in that came out of it.. 195 or 197. Afterwords, my temp gauge would not get up to normal operating temperature like it used to and would fluctuate about a third of the way up. My heater still blowed out good heat though. Afterwords I noticed my mpg dropped from an average of 21mpg to 18mpg. Well, It was time to service my truck again and I told the mechanic to go ahead and put another thermostat in to see if that was the problem (195). He did and now the temp gauge runs even lower than what it did before, just above cold. I still have good heat though. He said it could possible be something with the Temp Sending Unit or the Temp Sensor. According to Haynes Repair manual, the Sending Unit controls the temp gauge and check engine light on the instrument panel. The Temp Sensor is used by the computer to determine engine coolant temp and adjust fuel/air mixture. Both sensor and sending unit are screwed in on the thermostat housing. This is why I think my gas millage is suffering because of a cold reading. A cold engine or a cold reading makes the computer stay in Open Loop (Rich Mixture) output that can hurt mpg and emissions. But I don't understand how can replacing the same temp thermostat that came out of it cause the temp gauge to show a colder reading? My theory is that an air bubble gets lodged in the housing after replacing the thermostat and refilling the coolant causing an inaccurate reading from the sending unit... That's all I can figure out. I'm gonna have to do something because my mpg is sucking big time! I'm gonna replace the temp sending unit and temp sensor and see if that does it. I don't know what else to do.
#20 of 33 Re: radiator pressure
Feb 16, 2010 (1:55 pm)
Mycoolant backs into the reserve tank and will not return into the radiator.I think some of the coolant blows out of the top of the reserve tank as well. I removed the thremostat and nothing changed. Can any one help me? my email is : inspectsonic.net
#21 of 33 Re: radiator pressure [ritchie21]
Feb 24, 2010 (11:02 am)
Did Ford program all the Rangers to have this exact same problem at the same time??
Anybody figured it out yet?
Could it be a clogged heater core? I don't think my 1999 Ranger has a bypass. If the heater core gets clogged, would that cause this weird problem with the guage,
overflow tank, and cold/hot heating?
#22 of 33 Re: radiator pressure [spillmkl1]
Feb 25, 2010 (2:20 am)
1) Blowing coolant into overflow tank. I assume it's overheating, right? If so, you need to fix overheating problem - stuck thermostat, clogged (inside or outside) radiator, head gasket leak, etc.
2) To get coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank, the rubber line from the top of the radiator to the overflow has to be air tight. No cracks, etc. If it is not airtight, air is pulled back into the radiator, not coolant from the tank. Also, the radiator cap has to be working correctly. It basically has a two-way valve in the top of it. If the radiator overheats, the pressure goes up and at a certain pressure the valve opens and coolant flow thru the rad cap, thru the rubber tube, into the overflow. When the rad cools down, the creates a partial vacumn in the rad which opens the valve in the cap in the opposite direction, allowing coolant to be 'sucked' back into the radiator from the overflow tank.
So, you can see that the radiator cap, it's valve, must be working correctly and there can be no air leaks in the rad cap seal to the radiator and in the rubber hose to the overflow tank. And, in the overflow tank, there is a tube that goes almost to the bottom of the tank. It must be in place, and the hose connection to the top of this tube must not leak, so the coolant will be pulled back into the radiator.
Oh, and all the other rubber lines in the cooling system must be air tight. If you have a small leak in any of them, rad hoses, heater hoses, etc, then when a motor cools down, air will be pulled into the system at the leak, and it will not form the vacumn to pull coolant back from the overflow tank.
As a matter of fact, you might have a head gasket leak. This causes a motor to overheat significantly, which would blow coolant into overflow. But with a bad gasket leak, air could be pulled back thru the gasket and coolant not be pulled out of the overflow.
Basically, if the truck is overheating, you need to work on that first. If it's a head gasket, this is big money to fix.
#23 of 33 Re: radiator pressure [bolivar]
May 22, 2010 (8:28 pm)
I have a 96 2.3 4 cyl and i cannot find the sending unit my temp gauge pegs out hot always but the truck never runs hot so I am assuming sending unit gauge or connection is bad but I cannot find the sending unit. All suggestions and info will be appreciated.