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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe Start problems

180 messages,  Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 7:57 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV

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#137 of 180 Re: 99 Tahoe problems starting [heffron4] by arrie Mar 30, 2009 (7:16 am)
Replying to: heffron4 (Mar 29, 2009 3:28 pm) Can you get it started if you keep throttle a little bit open with your foot?   If you can then have the idle air valve checked.   Arrie
#138 of 180 2000 suburban starting problem by upsduster Apr 21, 2009 (7:09 pm)
I have a 2000 suburban it will start first thing in the morning or night and run perfect. Once I shut it off and let it sit for more than 10 minutes then I have to crank it over for 30 seconds and once it starts it idles real low until I give it some gas. It then runs great not skipping a beat until I shut it off. I can restart it with no problems for the first 5 minutes with no problems, hit the key and it starts.   Thanks Ed Replies to this message: arrie (Apr 22, 2009 10:43 am)
#139 of 180 Re: 2000 suburban starting problem [upsduster] by arrie Apr 22, 2009 (10:43 am)
Replying to: upsduster (Apr 21, 2009 7:09 pm) upsduster,   As I talk about the idle air valve in my previous post that might be you problem too.   Easy test to perform: When you first run the car after the first easy start and then shut it down for more than 10 minutes open the throttle just slightly when you try to start. If it helps you have probable idle air valve problem.   Now, I don't know if your car has the electronically controlled throttle. If it does it does not have an idle air valve but still throttle opening is controlled for idle speed. If slightly opening the throttle at start helps and it is an electrically controlled throttle it probably means the throttle is sticky at close to closed position and idle air control does not work. In this case simple cleaning of the throttle could be a fix but it could also mean that the throttle control step motor has gone bad.   You also can have a heat sensitive mechanical binding issue with the electronically controlled throttle. This would explain why it starts easily cold and just 5 minutes after shut off but you have trouble if it sits more than 10 minutes after driving.   When you shut the engine off the engine heat will increase throttle temperature faster than the throttle body. This means throttle can become too wide inside the body if tolerances are too tight or some other way binding. When car sits only 5 minutes throttle has not heated enough yet to bind but after 10 minutes it would be and already aged and weakened controlled can not move it easily any more. When car sits long enough the throttle and the throttle body reach same temperature and throttle moves easily again.   Now, above is just a theory but could be true too.      Arrie
#140 of 180 2003 Z71 tahoe ignition does not start at times. by tdarr Apr 27, 2009 (11:14 am)
I am still having a intermittent dead ignition when key is turned to start engine. I have full dash operation, volts do not drop when problem happens. I have changed battery and ignition switch, but problem still happens. This problem has been sense new and dealer has had it several times but could not find problem.I have tried setting alarm and disarming , wiggling key, moving tilt up and down, but can not locate problem area. Truck will start when it feels like it. No set time from when it happens to when it starts like new. Head lights and interior lights dont even dim. I have over 100k now and it seems to be happening more often.I have seen plenty of complaints for same problem but no repairs that stop problem. Can anyone help that has fixed problem? Thank you tdarr Replies to this message: arrie (Apr 27, 2009 5:24 pm) tdarr (Apr 30, 2009 7:48 am) oldjoe70 (Aug 19, 2009 4:23 pm) 1flyinz (Oct 19, 2009 11:58 am) rslawsky (Oct 19, 2009 12:13 pm)
#141 of 180 Re: 2003 Z71 tahoe ignition does not start at times. [tdarr] by arrie Apr 27, 2009 (5:24 pm)
Replying to: tdarr (Apr 27, 2009 11:14 am) Next time it happens where you have help at hand do this simple test.   Have someone turn the key for you holding it at start position and give the starter motor a small bump with a hammer or something. If it is starter solenoid related, which is build in the starter motor itself, a bump could get it cranking. This would mean that your starter motor has a sticky starter solenoid.   Another thing to do is to move the gear shifter to neutral for starting. The park switch could be little odd adjustment not allowing start when the shifter is in park position. Moving shifter to neutral could allow it to start as it should be able to start on neutral too. If this helps then you need the park switch adjusted on the gear shifter.   Arrie Replies to this message: tdarr (Apr 30, 2009 7:48 am)
#142 of 180 Re: 98 Silverado 1500 [mworkman] by milt0ne Apr 28, 2009 (6:31 am)
Replying to: mworkman (Jun 03, 2007 10:32 am) I'm having the same problem with my 97 suburban, When the humidity is high on a warm day it won't start. replaced the fule filter and distributor cap. Rotor and plugs and wires were replaced last summer. I find that I can put a blow dryer pointing at the distributor iot will start after it's had time to dry out. no moisture is found in the distributor. That's why I replace the distributor cap a few weeks ago. Any help would be appreciated. This problem 1st appeared in Dec. of '08. Replies to this message: arrie (Apr 28, 2009 12:40 pm)
#143 of 180 Re: 98 Silverado 1500 [milt0ne] by arrie Apr 28, 2009 (12:40 pm)
Replying to: milt0ne (Apr 28, 2009 6:31 am) Sounds like you might have a problem with ignition coil. It can be shorting to the ground just like distributor can. Often a hairline crack forms to the plastic-like isolator material and coil leaks to ground especially when wet. Perhaps swapping the coil out will fix your problems.   Arrie
#144 of 180 Re: 2003 Z71 tahoe ignition does not start at times. [arrie] by tdarr Apr 30, 2009 (7:48 am)
Replying to: arrie (Apr 27, 2009 5:24 pm) To arrie. I tried holding the key in start position and moving the gear shift in park and neutral but it did not start. I turned the key to run position and left on for about 30 sec. then turned key off for about 30 sec., then tried to start and truck started. I am waiting for the problem to happen again and try to see if it will start. tdarr
#145 of 180 1996 Chevy Suburban Killing Batteries by datdangdude May 17, 2009 (4:25 pm)
I have a 1996 Chevy Suburban 4WD (no turbo engine), and I have been replacing batteries time and time again.....I have taken the alternator to Auto Zone for testing, and it passed. I think that my truck is still a good truck, and I want to try and fix it (it is my fishing/work truck !), but I do not want to toss a wad of money into a (possible) electrical problem-which is WAAAAY beyond my mechanical expertise.   I had a Chilton manual for my truck, but I have misplaced it (UGH !)............   Could someone share some of their mechanical prowess ? Replies to this message: kiawah (May 17, 2009 4:36 pm)
#146 of 180 Re: 1996 Chevy Suburban Killing Batteries [datdangdude] by kiawah May 17, 2009 (4:36 pm)
Replying to: datdangdude (May 17, 2009 4:25 pm) Well either the alternator isn't charging it, or there is something draining it down.   Normally you would drive the vehicle to an autoparts store, and they would check the alternator under load with the engine driving the alternator. I had a 97' and went thru 2 alternators over 10 year period, so I'm personally suspect of the alternator. What you may want to do, is drive your vehicle over to some different parts center, and get a 2nd opinion on the status of your alternator (while it is in the vehicle).   If the alternator checks out okay, then you need to put a test light on the current draw off the battery, and start unplugging fuses to find out when the current draw stops. Something could be sitting there with a constant couple amp drain and draining the battery down. Start w/engine off, key off, and try to figure out if there is any current draw, and if so, which fused circuit it's on.   You could have a relay with fused points, providing voltage all the time to something that shouldn't have power when you turn the key off.

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