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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe Start problems
178 messages, Last post on Nov 15, 2009 at 3:25 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: eibbed52 (Sep 30, 2008 9:01 pm) When a fuse blows, it goes to infinite resistance since the small wire inside the fuse burns up, and there is no connection remaining between the two ends. If the fuse is still good, it has 'low' resistance. Just look to see whether the fuse indicates 'infinite' resistance...if so, it's blown. If in doubt, just replace it since they are cheap. Alternatively, you can swap the fuse with another fuse of equal rated amperage (swap a 10 Amp fuse, with another 10 Amp fuse....do not swap a 10 Amp fuse, with a 15 Amp fuse). The amperage rating is the amount of amps that the fuse will handle before it burns up. |
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Replying to: my_three_sons (Sep 07, 2008 12:08 am) ========================== 1999 Tahoe V8 2WD - problem with starting when cockpit is humid. cranks, fires, acts like it wants to start, but dies. Only happens when cockpit is humid. Optional Information: 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 350 Already Tried: replacing rotor, cap, wires, plugs, unplugging in and pluggin in ECM connectors. All underhood stuff. Does not seem to have any bearing on what is going on under the hood, only if the interior is humid. In the morning is the most likely time that this happens, but also on a rainy day. It sometimes fires the first try, but if it does not and fires and dies, no level of repeat attempts works until it sits for a while. Battery is fresh, so that is not the issue. Have looked for this issue on message boards, and see a lot of folks describing this problem, but no causes identified. I'd like an answer quickly, but not willing to pay $$ to get a canned stupid response, and since this is the first time I've tried this service, I'll see what I get and then pay if the answer looks plausible. ========================================== is this the same problem you encountered?? Is a new fuel pump the reccommendation based on symptoms? How hard is changing the fuel pump?? thanks Michael
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Replying to: michael_h (Nov 05, 2008 10:28 pm) I have had my Suburban since 1999 and have replaced the fuel pump once in 2004 and once in 2008. It is a known weakness in the Suburban/Tahoe vehicles. I had the replacements done by qualified mechanics both times as it is a tricky procedure. The part costs about $500 and the labor is about $300. The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank at the back of the truck. You need to drop the fuel tank ( best if it has very little gas in it ), replace the fuel pump, then re-install the tank. As I am not a professional mechanic, I was uncomfortable attempting this procedure on my own. I did not want to risk incorrectly installing a $500 part, then having to pay for the procedure all over again. One way to see if the current pump is operating properly is to have your mechanic measure the fuel pressure that coming out of the existing fuel pump. The manufacturers' specification is around 60 PSI. If is is below that by a significant amount, then the fuel pump is not operating properly. Good luck with your truck. |
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Hi to all. My first post to this site, from what I've seen there is a lot of help here. So, with that said here is my problem and the things I've done so far. The problem started showing about two months ago, taking longer and longer to start, checked battery and found it to be week, put in new battery, did not fix problem. Next to happen was to replace the plugs, was due anyway, problem still not fixed, got to the point that a quick squirt of starting fluid was needed to get it to start. two days ago temp got down to 19 degrees F, and would not start at all, replaced distributor roter, and cap, both showed signs of wear. Still problem is not fixed. Checked for spark at plugs and it is presant, checked for fuel at purge point in line, fuel is presant but not sure of pressure. Finaly today, hooked up jumpers from other car and a quick shot of start fluid and it started. After it starts the first time it's not a problem again until it cools down. What should I check next?!!!
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Replying to: esaxton (Dec 06, 2008 1:23 pm) ' Hope that helps.
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Replying to: my_three_sons (Dec 06, 2008 2:00 pm) 
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Replying to: esaxton (Dec 06, 2008 4:19 pm) A wrong form easily can be that too low fuel pressure does not atomize the fuel spray and the engine won't start. Then, after you start it up with the starter fluid and it runs and engine is warm it will start normal way, until it sits and cools down. An important thing with the fuel pump that needs to work correctly for correct fuel pressure is the fuel pressure regulator. Did you change that out? If not, that would be my next thing to do. It actually would have been one of the first things that I would have checked before changing everything else you have changed including that fuel pump. Checking codes probably will not tell you anything since there is no sensor for fuel pressure. Have codes checked at a car part store, where they do it for free for you. Dealer or other shops charge about the same as a OBD II scanner cost, i.e. if you are considering taking your car to a dealer or other shop buy the scanner instead. It is easy to use and a very good tool to have. OBD II scanner works for all U.S. sold cars since 1997 I believe. Arrie
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Replying to: arrie (Dec 07, 2008 11:49 am)
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