Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 9:06 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
#105 of 381 2000 Chevrolet Suburban fuel pump issues??
Sep 30, 2008 (9:01 pm)
I have a 2000 Chevrolet Suburban that is sputtering and falling on its face when I press the gas pedal. After reading this forum, I am thinking it might be the fuel pump. So I called the local Chevrolet service dept and they said it would cost over $535 for the pump and $370 in labor. WOW!! Well that is not in my budget. I think I will start small first and check the fuel filter, thanks to a message I found earlier on this forum, and I did find it under the driver's side. I also am checking the fuses and relays. Any other suggestions anyone might have, I would greatly appreciate.
I have had this Suburban for over four years and have never ever had any problems. It has been a great vehicle.
Oh, I took the fuses for the fuel pump to have them checked and they said I would have to know what the OHMS were so they could be checked. Does anyone know what they might be?
#106 of 381 Re: 2000 Chevrolet Suburban fuel pump issues?? [eibbed52]
Sep 30, 2008 (10:36 pm)
Does anyone know what they might be?
I don't know what they are but I don't think you need to know any more than whether they are blown or not. The pump will not function at all if the fuses are blown.
SUVs and Smart Shopper
#107 of 381 Re: 2000 Chevrolet Suburban fuel pump issues?? [eibbed52]
Oct 01, 2008 (3:44 am)
ohms is a measure of resistance.....like inches is a measure of distance.
When a fuse blows, it goes to infinite resistance since the small wire inside the fuse burns up, and there is no connection remaining between the two ends. If the fuse is still good, it has 'low' resistance. Just look to see whether the fuse indicates 'infinite' resistance...if so, it's blown.
If in doubt, just replace it since they are cheap. Alternatively, you can swap the fuse with another fuse of equal rated amperage (swap a 10 Amp fuse, with another 10 Amp fuse....do not swap a 10 Amp fuse, with a 15 Amp fuse). The amperage rating is the amount of amps that the fuse will handle before it burns up.
#108 of 381 Re: Trouble Starting '99 Suburban in the morning [my_three_sons]
Nov 05, 2008 (10:28 pm)
my_three_sons - this sounds like my problem. here is what I have posted on just answer.com
1999 Tahoe V8 2WD - problem with starting when cockpit is humid. cranks, fires, acts like it wants to start, but dies. Only happens when cockpit is humid.
1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 350
replacing rotor, cap, wires, plugs, unplugging in and pluggin in ECM connectors. All underhood stuff. Does not seem to have any bearing on what is going on under the hood, only if the interior is humid. In the morning is the most likely time that this happens, but also on a rainy day. It sometimes fires the first try, but if it does not and fires and dies, no level of repeat attempts works until it sits for a while. Battery is fresh, so that is not the issue. Have looked for this issue on message boards, and see a lot of folks describing this problem, but no causes identified. I'd like an answer quickly, but not willing to pay $$ to get a canned stupid response, and since this is the first time I've tried this service, I'll see what I get and then pay if the answer looks plausible.
is this the same problem you encountered?? Is a new fuel pump the reccommendation based on symptoms? How hard is changing the fuel pump??
#109 of 381 Re: Trouble Starting '99 Suburban in the morning [michael_h]
Nov 06, 2008 (2:06 am)
Your problem does sounds like you are a candidate for a new fuel pump. If the fuel pump hasn't been replaced in the past 4-5 years, there is a strong probability that you need a new one.
I have had my Suburban since 1999 and have replaced the fuel pump once in 2004 and once in 2008. It is a known weakness in the Suburban/Tahoe vehicles.
I had the replacements done by qualified mechanics both times as it is a tricky procedure. The part costs about $500 and the labor is about $300. The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank at the back of the truck. You need to drop the fuel tank ( best if it has very little gas in it ), replace the fuel pump, then re-install the tank. As I am not a professional mechanic, I was uncomfortable attempting this procedure on my own. I did not want to risk incorrectly installing a $500 part, then having to pay for the procedure all over again.
One way to see if the current pump is operating properly is to have your mechanic measure the fuel pressure that coming out of the existing fuel pump. The manufacturers' specification is around 60 PSI. If is is below that by a significant amount, then the fuel pump is not operating properly.
Good luck with your truck.
#111 of 381 difficult cold start
Dec 06, 2008 (1:23 pm)
Hi to all. My first post to this site, from what I've seen there is a lot of help here. So, with that said here is my problem and the things I've done so far. The problem started showing about two months ago, taking longer and longer to start, checked battery and found it to be week, put in new battery, did not fix problem. Next to happen was to replace the plugs, was due anyway, problem still not fixed, got to the point that a quick squirt of starting fluid was needed to get it to start. two days ago temp got down to 19 degrees F, and would not start at all, replaced distributor roter, and cap, both showed signs of wear. Still problem is not fixed. Checked for spark at plugs and it is presant, checked for fuel at purge point in line, fuel is presant but not sure of pressure. Finaly today, hooked up jumpers from other car and a quick shot of start fluid and it started. After it starts the first time it's not a problem again until it cools down. What should I check next?!!!
#112 of 381 Re: difficult cold start [esaxton]
Dec 06, 2008 (2:00 pm)
Sounds like you might have a fuel pump problem. If the truck is 5 or more years old, you might be up for a replacement. Check to fuel pressure coming out of the pump when it is cold. If the pressure is low ( less than 45-60 PSI ) it is probably worth replacing the fuel pump. The pump is ~$500 and ~$300 in labor for a total of $800 or so.
Hope that helps.
#114 of 381 Re: difficult cold start [my_three_sons]
Dec 06, 2008 (4:19 pm)
I'm hoping that thats not it, just replaced the fuel pump last year. I agree, I need to test the fuel pressure, rather than going at it a little at a time, I am going to take it to have an analasys ran and see what all pops on the radar. I hate to say it but it probably is the fuel pump.