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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe Start problems
102 messages, Last post on Aug 05, 2008 at 11:07 AM
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Replying to: johnson81624 (Dec 16, 2007 2:17 pm) Replacing the fuel-fouled spark plugs was a start. Replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter helped. Cleaning her MAP sensor, MAS sensor, MAT sensor helped. The winning replacement part was her "Ignition Distributor" Replacing the distributor was the winning part to make her run even in below zero weather. I wish every one luck in their automotive repair' s. |
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Replying to: cniwranski (Aug 16, 2007 8:54 am) The Tahoe is in the garage after a complete tune up, replacement of sensors under the dash, replace fuel pump, and it still won't run. Can you or your mechanic help me. tccox1 |
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I have an '04 Tahoe with about 85k on it. Recently it won't start on the first try and generally will on the second or third. This occurs if it has been sitting for a while such as overnight. If it is warm then it starts right up. The dealer said that it is the fuel pump. That on the first "cold" try it doesn't completely pump the fuel to where it is needed. They said I need to replace the pump and should replace the fuel filter at the same time. Does this sound legit? This is a big expense.
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Replying to: mattrig (Jul 10, 2008 6:44 am) Another thing to check before fuel pump work is the fuel pressure. If pressure is low it can be an indication of failing pump but it can also be an indication of failing fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure regulator can loose spring force that controls fuel pressure causing low pressure condition and poor fuel spray in the intake port. Pressure regulator is quite inexpensive to change compared to fuel pump. Depending on the car dealer it seems they want to do the most expensive job first, which you pay regardless if it fixes the problem and then they start changing the other parts that can be the problem. Have you changed spark plugs yet? They can be the problem too. I know they say you can go 100 000 miles with the factory installed plugs but I would, and have changed mine, already before 50 000 miles. Factory installed spark plugs seldom are the best you can get either as is the case with plug wires. Start with the fuel filter, which if I remember right is located on driver side in about middle of the car on inside of the frame beam. Lucky you have a fuel filter as some other cars have fuel filter only at fuel pump itself. You could check the fuel pressure before changing the filter to see if it makes any difference. If filter change does not help check / change fuel pressure regulator. Fuel filter and pressure regulator change I think cost $200 or less. Fuel pump job I have seen from other posts cost $800 - $1000. One thing that perhaps tells about filter problem is easy test to do. When the engine is cold and you would need to turn the key twice before it starts do this: Turn the key only to make all instrument panel lights to come on, i.e. turn the key to ON but DO NOT TURN IT TO START. You should hear the fuel pump to operate for a couple of seconds. Now turn the key OFF and then turn it like you normally would start the engine and see if the engine really starts. This could indicate that indeed the fuel filter is restricting the fuel flow to the engine and you kind of need a "pre-charge" from the fuel pump before you are able to start the engine. Arrie |
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I'm hoping someone can help me. I have an 02 Tahoe that occasionally will not start. No lights, no sounds, nothing-just dead. It will not jump and the battery cables are tight and clean/no corrosion. The battery is new. I've had it tested and the battery, starter and charging systems show normal/good. What could be causing this? The test showed that the system is draining 6.44 amps when totally shut off. This sounds high to me. What could be causing it? I also get that whirring sound when driving and sometimes when I shut off the vehicle. Could that be indicative of the problem? Please advise. Any direction or help would be greatly appreciated. I drive my children around in this truck and don't like being stranded at will. Plus wrecker fees are adding up!
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Replying to: reloc8 (Jul 12, 2008 12:46 pm) 6.44 amps is quite high though. You could do following: Connect amp meter between battery negative and the ground cable. That is where you should see that 6.44 ams draining when everything is OFF and start testing every fuse and relay, i.e. take fuses and relays off one by one (replacing each if not problem) until you find the one that stops battery drainage. This way you can find the circuitry that is causing it. It can also be that your alternator has started leaking in the ground (diode problem) and as the amperage is quite high this might be where I would start, i.e. disconnect all alternator wires to see if that is doing it. Starter motor could be the source for problem too so disconnect the thick starter motor power cable from the battery to see if it helps. Arrie
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Replying to: arrie (Jul 12, 2008 1:17 pm) |
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My '03 Suburban won't start at random times. It does seem tied to the weather (didn't happen at all in the winter), and is usually after it's been driven - but not always. When I turn the key all the electrical components turn on as if it's in auxilliary, but the engine simply won't turn over. There is obviously enough power to turn on lights, radio, dvd player, but no start. Sometimes you can wait 20 seconds and try it 20 times and then it will start. Other times, 20 minutes and two tries will do the trick. There appears to be no rhyme or reason to when it will finally start. All cables (including battery) appear to be tight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Replying to: nate24 (Aug 04, 2008 8:49 pm) |
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