Last post on Mar 11, 2013 at 8:53 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, SUV
#366 of 375 Re: 2008 Suburban same electrical problem [alanrs]
Dec 12, 2012 (6:14 am)
Thanks for the information on the cable. The negative and positive cables are as clean and as tight as they can be. To answer the other person no I have not had my BCM flashed by the dealer. After reading other blogs about people spending thousands on this problem with no resolution I am hoping to find out what the problem truly is so I can have it fixed the first time. If I might ask does anyone have an idea what the dealer charges to flash the BCM?
#367 of 375 Re: 2008 Suburban same electrical problem [gmlemon2]
Dec 12, 2012 (7:52 am)
If you had wanted for us to check into anything with your dealership (labor rates, even) we'd be happy to do so. Please send your request to us via email at socialmediagm.com (also include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your preferred dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
#368 of 375 Re: 2008 Suburban same electrical problem [gmlemon2]
Dec 12, 2012 (8:33 am)
I don't think there was a charge for flashing the BCM. I think it was part of a recall, but not sure. I would contact your dealer and ask them.
#369 of 375 Re: 2008 Suburban same electrical problem [gmcustsvc]
Dec 20, 2012 (9:34 am)
Do you know if GM has issued a recall on this electrical problem.
On a seperate note, I have the I&L type windshield wipers. I heard there was a bulletin on replacing the I&L type with J-hook. do you know if this is true?
#370 of 375 Re: 2008 Suburban same electrical problem [gmlemon2]
Dec 20, 2012 (11:14 am)
You're most welcome!
We can check your vehicle to see if there are any open recalls on it if you wanted to send us the last 8 digits of your VIN (email again is socialmediagm.com).
As the bulletins are intended for use by our technicians and as we're not technically trained in Customer Service, I am unable to discuss any TSBs at this time unfortunately.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
#371 of 375 Re: 2008 Suburban same electrical problem [gmcustsvc]
Dec 23, 2012 (12:10 pm)
I sent my info to email address. New battery dead today. Something is draining it any help is appreciated
#372 of 375 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe Hard Start
Feb 06, 2013 (4:45 pm)
My ’98 Chevy Tahoe, 223K miles has become slightly difficult to start. I must turn the engine over for two seconds wait three seconds then hit the starter again for two seconds, then it runs and runs like a top. This started in August and occurs independent of heat or humidity. If it has been recently driven it also starts right up. I have replaced the spark plugs, high tension coil, distributer cap and fuel filter resulting in a slight improvement. The fuel pump was replaced by the dealership at 150K miles. Thank you in advance for your guidance.
#373 of 375 Re: 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe Hard Start [kingdudley]
Feb 06, 2013 (11:11 pm)
Your truck should have the 5.7L "L31" V-8, with a Central Sequential Fuel Injection system. Here is a basic starting option: Instead of rotating the key to the "Start" spot when you first get into the Tahoe, turn it only to "Run". Wait several seconds while fuel pressure builds in the system, since the fuel pump will be activated until full pressure is achieved. Then, without turning the key off, go ahead and rotate the key into the "Start" detent.
If the motor starts immediately, what it will tell you is this: There is likely a loss of fuel pressure between the time that the motor is turned off, and you start it again. There may be a very slight leak (even inside the tank at the pump) in a line, or a check valve which is supposed to hold pressure between runs is failing. Unless there is an external leak, it is probably nothing to worry about, and it does not indicate an imminent fuel pump failure. Can you detect the odor of gasoline anywhere around the truck or in the engine compartment? A failing fuel injector system may allow the pressure loss from the fuel rail, and let gas trickle into the engine. If the oil on your dipstick smells strongly like gasoline, that is the likely culprit, and it should be repaired.
In the old days when the mechanical fuel pump was mounted to the side of engines, a leak could cause gas to quickly fill up the crank-case. The results were not good!
If it still requires the crank, wait, and crank again method before the engine will start, it just may indicate that the motor has lost some compression, and takes a few extra rotations to build sufficient cylinder pressure for combustion. That does not necessarily mean that the motor is nearing the end of it's life cycle, either. Some wear is always normal, considering how many miles each piston has traveled in its bore through a quarter of a million on the road. Basic calculations lead me to believe that each piston has probably traveled 99,000 miles, moving 3.5 inches up and down with each rotation of the crank!
A third option which comes to mind is that the fuel injectors are no longer producing as broad or well-atomized spray patterns as they did when they were newer. There are cleaners used through the fuel which can help, but the only real answer might be to service (replace) the injection system, not a task that is lightly undertaken. Note that the CSFI system is fully enclosed inside of the top intake manifold. There are many discussions regarding that system to be found on the 'net, and it would be good reading to further your understanding of how it works and what it looks like. There is at least one Multi-Port Fuel Injection system which can be utilized as a replacement, and there may be benefits in doing that conversion.
Typically, if the CSFI system is at fault, the engine will not run well at all, and fuel economy will suffer a lot. Still, if the motor runs well, but that system is indeed leaking raw fuel into the crank-case between engine runs, it may be necessary to do something about it. Understand that it will be expensive!
#374 of 375 2000 Tahoe. Sudden loss of power. Fuel pump?
Mar 11, 2013 (7:42 pm)
Running fine, residential area, turned a corner two blocks from my house, suddenly, the engine had little and deteriorating power. Any gas pedal press only produced limited response. At just a little over idle (10-15 mph, almost like coasting uphill slightly), I made it home and into the garage. Put it into park, could not get any RPM response with a gas pedal press, the attempt caused it to stall and quit. Let it sit for a little while, can start but will only idle with trouble, will stall out if I press the gas pedal. This was a very sudden condition, never happened before (only owned it for 3 months, ran very well so far) The fuel pump has been loud since I bought it. The engine is a Vortec 5300. I've already replaced 2 fuel pumps in the last year (Both in tank of a 99 Ford Windstar and a 98 olds 88). I probably can handle it but would appreciate any suggestions before I undertake this project if anyone suspects a different cause to my loss of power or if I can pretty much have confidence that the fuel pump is indeed kaput. Thanks
#375 of 375 Re: 2000 Tahoe. Sudden loss of power. Fuel pump? [purplebeard]
Mar 11, 2013 (8:53 pm)
Certainly sounds like the pump to me. To confirm it, see if your local auto parts store lends tools (some do in my area) and use a fuel pressure tester.
When the pump failed on my Suburban, I had just left a business, headed for a freeway. The truck was stumbling and would not accelerate on the entrance ramp. I managed about two miles 50mph, and there was no power for acceleration. When I got off at the next exit, the engine quit while I coasted around the curve. As yours, it would sometimes restart but not run. The pump was it, and the replacement job is a BEAR!
Regarding what to look out for during the pump change: You might want to scan the "Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start Problems" and the "Chevy Suburban/Tahoe Rough Idle and Stalling" discussions. I know I posted the procedure I used somewhere in this forum, but can't find it right now. One partipant listed what he did, post #347 in the "No Start" thread. Because it was cold when I did the pump, and because it was old, I had to cut the large diameter filler hose which connects directly to the tank to get it off more easily. Be forewarned: Although less than 18" long, that hose is $150!!!