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Honda CR-V Transmission Questions

83 messages,  Last post on Oct 01, 2012 at 6:40 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda CR-V

Messages Page 9 of 9

#78 of 83 Re: 2003 CRV transmission problem.. [dap7333] by mrbeehill

Feb 14, 2012 (10:34 pm)

Replying to: dap7333 (Jan 03, 2012 4:23 am)
My suggestion would be to have a couple of transmission shops testdrive the car. If they both find there to be a problem, have the work done at the shop of your choice. Stay away from the dealer on this one, unless it's covered under warenty. You could get away with paying under $3000.

#79 of 83 Re: '98 CRV Automatic Transmission - slamming into 2nd & 3rd gear [chicagoturtle] by mrbeehill

Feb 14, 2012 (10:46 pm)

Replying to: chicagoturtle (Dec 03, 2009 8:28 pm)
My 2001 was doing the same thing. I had just bought it from Balise Honda in September 2011. The dealership would change the fluid and say "Seems fine now". Yeah right!! Went through a battle with them. They finally paid for a rebuild just last week. The transmission shops I took it to did a testdrive and told me I had some internal faliuer. The shop owner who fixed it said he found a badly worn main clutch. I'm not too familieur with the workings of the tranny, but the car shifts beautiful now.

#80 of 83 98 CRV shift hard and rear wheel shutter by coryj1

Apr 09, 2012 (7:48 pm)

Here is a little info on why you get the rear wheel vib when turning tight left or right
 
    basically when the front wheels slip, it causes a difference in pressure between the two pumps in the rear differential ( one pump is powered by the propeller shaft, and the second by the rear half shafts ) the difference in pressure pushes open a valve, and pushed the clutch pack togehter causing power to be sent to the rear shafts, once traction is restored to the front wheels, or if the differential over heats, the valve is closed and the clutch pack is released. the Dual Pump Fluid II not only powers the hydraulic system, but it also lubricates and cools the differential. the rear differential also has a "breathing tube" on the top. after so many miles ( it depends on driving habbits, conditions, and debris/contaminates in the fluid ) the fluid needs to be replaced, the clutch packs will eventually need to be burnished, and the differential may need to be flushed.
 
    bad fluid or clutch packs will cause a groan, or a grinding sound. but only when the clutch packs are engaged.
 
  
 
  to check the fluid level, unbolt the top filler bolt and stick your finger in, you should be able to feel fluid level with the treads. to drain the differential open the filler bolt, and the lower bolt, replace drain ( lower ) bolt and fill with about one and a half bottle of dual pump fluid ( about $8.50 US ) make sure fluid is level with filler bolt. drive about fifteen minutes and check fluid again. if you have been having problems you may want to either get clutch packs burnished or you could repeat the changing process at least 3 times, until when emptying the differential all that comes out is new fluid.
 
   Also a lot of shifting issue are cured by doing the 3 drain and fills with genuine Honda ATF Z1 (now DW1)

#81 of 83 Grade Logic? by ml3

Apr 26, 2012 (9:50 am)

Hi, I have a 2008 CRV-EX and from the get-go, the transmission will downshift at the slightest grade change, even as little as the rise of an overpass on the interstate. It's much worse with the cruise control on but still occurs with it off. While not a direct comparo, my Mazda pickup drives these same roads with no downshift whereas the CRV sometimes drops into 3rd.
 
So, not sure if I should be looking more at the cruise control vs the transmission. I'm reluctant to take the car to the local Honda folks as their fix for my a/c cycling off for a minute or longer on a hot days was to tell me Honda recommends that you should always run your a/c in recycle mode. My fear is that they'll want to replace the tires.
 
Suggestions? Thanks.

#82 of 83 98 crv trans and rear diff problem by tuner_4life

Oct 01, 2012 (5:34 pm)

i have a 98 crv auto. awd. the rear diff went bad so i replaced it. and after i did so the drive shaft spins when im in gear and the brakes are applied ( car is not moving) should it do this? the diff. fluid is full i double and triple checked and not only that now when the car is in park it rolls almost like the parking pin is not working . i am stumped please give me some ideas. and when you are on the gas when driving you get a squealing noise. thanks!

#83 of 83 Re: 98 crv trans and rear diff problem [tuner_4life] by garyny

Oct 01, 2012 (6:40 pm)

Replying to: tuner_4life (Oct 01, 2012 5:34 pm)
I bought a 2007 BMW x3 as a replacement to the Honda CRV. I was a good move in hindsight. The X3 is high performance, cost less and gets better mileage. After 2 years with the X3 I'd have no reason to suffer again with the quirks of a Honda Trans.

Messages Page 9 of 9

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