Last post on Oct 01, 2012 at 6:40 PM
You are in the Honda CR-V
What is this discussion about?
#73 of 83 Automatic Transmission Whine 2005 AWD CRV
Jan 14, 2011 (11:29 am)
Be aware that you Must change the transmission fluid. I overlooked it and ended up with 112k miles and a trashed transmission. I thought I had the dealer do it, but my mistake.
The whine is the torque converter. Hope this alerts someone from having the same bad experience.
#74 of 83 another crv transmission problem
Mar 21, 2011 (5:05 pm)
Sister has a 99 crv, prob never changed the trans fluid done over 100,000. Had a prblem the other day. transmission stopped working. she put it in gear and motor revs but no movement.
she left the car there and when I went to go tow it back The trans worked again. after a few miles same thing happened. seems when it warms up it doesn't work. then when it is cold works ok. Just wondering if I should do a triple fluid change as stated lots in this forum. or is the trans stuffed and just put a new one in.
any help much appreciated
#75 of 83 2001 CRV Code P0730
Jun 06, 2011 (5:33 pm)
The Honda has been great for 3yrs until yesterday .. AS driving hwy speed it suddenly seemed to slip into N, . slow down at least. Turn off vehicle and restart and it ran fine for a mile or so then did it again. Transmission fluid was low, replaced. But still does same thing. Ran code and got a P0730. I don't see that it needs a whole new transmission, since it runs ok and shifts fine for a bit. How about ECM or a solinoid? How would I know? -- This is my sons car, he is a special needs adult and has a very limited income, he is so proud of his vehicle and ability to drive it.... Any advice
#76 of 83 2003 CRV transmission problem..
Jan 03, 2012 (4:23 am)
Hi guys... I have a crv 2003 model and it has problem with the transmission. on of the guys at the service centre told me that i need to change the transmission. the problem is it is too expensive. almost 6000 dollars. i just need to know is it safe make a long drive with the car in that kind of condition or is it better to get it repair first....?? Hope any of you guys could help me...
#77 of 83 Re: another crv transmission problem [timbonz]
Feb 14, 2012 (10:24 pm)
I would say the tranny is all done. I think when the fluid settles to the bottom it activates the gears enough to get you to the next light. So, weather it sat for a few days or a few minutes, the result would be the same. I'm no pro, but I had the same thing happen to me.
#78 of 83 Re: 2003 CRV transmission problem.. [dap7333]
Feb 14, 2012 (10:34 pm)
My suggestion would be to have a couple of transmission shops testdrive the car. If they both find there to be a problem, have the work done at the shop of your choice. Stay away from the dealer on this one, unless it's covered under warenty. You could get away with paying under $3000.
#79 of 83 Re: '98 CRV Automatic Transmission - slamming into 2nd & 3rd gear [chicagoturtle]
Feb 14, 2012 (10:46 pm)
My 2001 was doing the same thing. I had just bought it from Balise Honda in September 2011. The dealership would change the fluid and say "Seems fine now". Yeah right!! Went through a battle with them. They finally paid for a rebuild just last week. The transmission shops I took it to did a testdrive and told me I had some internal faliuer. The shop owner who fixed it said he found a badly worn main clutch. I'm not too familieur with the workings of the tranny, but the car shifts beautiful now.
#80 of 83 98 CRV shift hard and rear wheel shutter
Apr 09, 2012 (7:48 pm)
Here is a little info on why you get the rear wheel vib when turning tight left or right
basically when the front wheels slip, it causes a difference in pressure between the two pumps in the rear differential ( one pump is powered by the propeller shaft, and the second by the rear half shafts ) the difference in pressure pushes open a valve, and pushed the clutch pack togehter causing power to be sent to the rear shafts, once traction is restored to the front wheels, or if the differential over heats, the valve is closed and the clutch pack is released. the Dual Pump Fluid II not only powers the hydraulic system, but it also lubricates and cools the differential. the rear differential also has a "breathing tube" on the top. after so many miles ( it depends on driving habbits, conditions, and debris/contaminates in the fluid ) the fluid needs to be replaced, the clutch packs will eventually need to be burnished, and the differential may need to be flushed.
bad fluid or clutch packs will cause a groan, or a grinding sound. but only when the clutch packs are engaged.
to check the fluid level, unbolt the top filler bolt and stick your finger in, you should be able to feel fluid level with the treads. to drain the differential open the filler bolt, and the lower bolt, replace drain ( lower ) bolt and fill with about one and a half bottle of dual pump fluid ( about $8.50 US ) make sure fluid is level with filler bolt. drive about fifteen minutes and check fluid again. if you have been having problems you may want to either get clutch packs burnished or you could repeat the changing process at least 3 times, until when emptying the differential all that comes out is new fluid.
Also a lot of shifting issue are cured by doing the 3 drain and fills with genuine Honda ATF Z1 (now DW1)
#81 of 83 Grade Logic?
Apr 26, 2012 (9:50 am)
Hi, I have a 2008 CRV-EX and from the get-go, the transmission will downshift at the slightest grade change, even as little as the rise of an overpass on the interstate. It's much worse with the cruise control on but still occurs with it off. While not a direct comparo, my Mazda pickup drives these same roads with no downshift whereas the CRV sometimes drops into 3rd.
So, not sure if I should be looking more at the cruise control vs the transmission. I'm reluctant to take the car to the local Honda folks as their fix for my a/c cycling off for a minute or longer on a hot days was to tell me Honda recommends that you should always run your a/c in recycle mode. My fear is that they'll want to replace the tires.
#82 of 83 98 crv trans and rear diff problem
Oct 01, 2012 (5:34 pm)
i have a 98 crv auto. awd. the rear diff went bad so i replaced it. and after i did so the drive shaft spins when im in gear and the brakes are applied ( car is not moving) should it do this? the diff. fluid is full i double and triple checked and not only that now when the car is in park it rolls almost like the parking pin is not working . i am stumped please give me some ideas. and when you are on the gas when driving you get a squealing noise. thanks!