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Towing with a Forester

97 messages, Last post on Apr 21, 2008 at 6:24 AM
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Replying to: xtop (Dec 13, 2007 5:54 pm) Seems almost abusive and a terrible price to pay in terms of wear and fuel cost. The XT is not a Cummins. The XT's turbo must be designed for bursts of acceleration rather than steady towing. That was one of the reasons I chose the NA automatic LL Bean for towing. |
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It might be abusive if the vehicle were not so well treated otherwise. The towing only happens occasionally. You might be surprised how much the turbo is called on in ordinary driving. We live in the Rocky Mountains and traverse steep multi-mile grades all the time. The turbo starts to come online as low as 2500 RPM. It actually is more regulated by throttle opening than RPM in most cases. That's why it comes in under heavier throttle applications. It may be "abusive and terrible" but that's the way it is. The automatics are not normally very fuel efficient in my experience. We have several friends with AT non-turbo Foresters and we get better mileage under normal circumstances. The tow-load rating is lower for the automatics as well. I can't afford nor do I want a Cummins or any other diesel truck. The engines alone cost several thousands extra on top of the vehicles which tend to be in the $35-45,000 range. They are, of course, much more durable but the maintenance is rather high on them when it is done properly. We drove a diesel car in Europe and it would be just fine for us but the few manufacturers that offer passenger car diesels in the U.S. are not on my shopping list. That may change. Subaru offers diesels overseas, but not here. If they start offering them here, I might consider buying one. They certainly are good for towing. Thank you for your concern, Fred
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Replying to: xtop (Dec 16, 2007 2:15 pm) Where do you find this? The 2008 brochure says 2400 lbs for any and all, regardless of engine or transmission.
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Replying to: aatherton (Dec 18, 2007 4:33 pm) Sorry for the delay. We just got back in town. The owner's manual, I believe, has different figures for the two transmissions. I will check it again when I get some sleep to make sure. Fred
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Replying to: xtop (Dec 28, 2007 8:10 am) Not exactly. See page 8-19. The figures are the same for the two transmissions. Except, for the AT, the 2400 lbs is reduced to 1000 lbs when towing a trailer on a long uphill grade continuously for over 5 miles with an outside temperature of 104F or above.
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Replying to: aatherton (Dec 28, 2007 4:32 pm) -Frank |
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Replying to: kayakingsue (Aug 01, 2007 6:34 pm) |
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Replying to: jontautic (Apr 06, 2008 2:51 pm) Bob |
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Replying to: jontautic (Apr 06, 2008 2:51 pm) See if you can lighten it up as much as possible, perhaps by loading the gear inside the cargo area of the car instead of under the seat of the jet skis. I towed with my 98 (also over that 1000 lb limit) and noticed braking distances were a lot greater. Still, I managed OK, taking is easy. No harm to the Forester, which was reliable for the 9 years I had it, until I sold it. |
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Replying to: jontautic (Apr 06, 2008 2:51 pm) The car will be fine. You will only be as fine as your driving care. I towed a 2000-lb boat for many years, without trailer brakes, never feeling the need for them, or knowing what they were for. Until one rainy day I entered an unexpectedly sharp turn on a rural road at 45 mph, felt it was too fast, and applied the brakes as I entered. The trailer being at an angle to the car in the turn, it began to push the rear and of the car around. I had to get off the brakes and roll around the turn without slowing. After that I was very aware of what side-force on my hitch could do. You will be fine, as long as you don't brake too hard in the middle of a turn or have to do a panic stop. In a panic stop, you expect to not stop as fast as a bare car, but what you don't expect is that with the slightest deviation from a straight line stop, the trailer can push the rear end of the car to the side and then jack knife it, instantly.
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