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Towing with a Forester

97 messages,  Last post on Apr 21, 2008 at 6:24 AM

You are in the Subaru Forester Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Subaru Forester, Towing, Wagon


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#21 of 97
Forester towing misc. by kayakingsue
Oct 07, 2007 (2:51 pm)
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From what everyone has told me, if you have a brake controller in the car that controlls the brakes in the TB you will be fine. The issue with me was the Subaru sold me their hitch set-up as though it would be sufficient for anything the Forester was rated for, but it was not and I had to retro-fit the brake controller and then buy something extra to accommodate the trailer's ball hitch.
 
My Forester is the cheapest model, so you may have more soup than I do, which will make climbing those hills much nicer.
 
I was a camp-host in Oregon so I could kayak more frequently. I missed my Colorado sunshine, but I had a wonderful time, the the kayaking was fabulous. I like my tent trailer because it has more room when both beds are extended, although it had the same floor space as the TB I looked at. However, it's really chilly when the nights get cold.
#22 of 97
Re: Forester towing misc. [kayakingsue] by paisan
Oct 07, 2007 (6:01 pm)
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Replying to: kayakingsue (Oct 07, 2007 2:51 pm)

If you have surge brakes you won't need a controller.
 
As for the rear suspension, the easiest thing to do is to move anything inside the trailer to the rear to reduce the tounge weight. You may be able to get some custom upgraded springs for the rear which would help.
 
-mike
#23 of 97
Re: Forester towing misc. [paisan] by p0926
Oct 09, 2007 (12:31 pm)
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Replying to: paisan (Oct 07, 2007 6:01 pm)

I don't suppose that installing the self-leveling suspension is a financially feasible option?
 
-Frank
#24 of 97
Moving cargo by xtop
Oct 09, 2007 (1:28 pm)
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I imagine that I will load up the storage at the rear of the trailer itself to cut the load on the back of the Subaru. A simple and effective method, thank you. The battery might end up being moved as well to help.
 
The self-leveling suspension would be lovely but not an option for me.
 
What would be an optimum hitch weight on the tongue, does anyone have an idea? It's common knowledge, I'm sure, but I don't know it.
 
Thank you, everyone, for your help.
 
Fred
#25 of 97
Towing by p0926
Oct 09, 2007 (3:15 pm)
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Hey where's Bob, our resident towing expert and champion of all things towing related
#26 of 97
Re: Towing [p0926] by paisan
Oct 09, 2007 (6:55 pm)
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Replying to: p0926 (Oct 09, 2007 3:15 pm)

Ideally w/o the leveling you'd want less than 10% tongue weight of the trailer and not less than 6%.
 
On my peformance boat trailer I run about 600lb tounge on a 10,000lb trailer and this works out well to keep it balanced.
 
-mike
#27 of 97
Re: Towing [paisan] by tidester HOST
Oct 09, 2007 (9:08 pm)
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Replying to: paisan (Oct 09, 2007 6:55 pm)

Mike,
 
I'm curious. How does one actually determine the tongue weight?
 
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
#28 of 97
Re: Towing [tidester] by kavoom
Oct 10, 2007 (3:38 am)
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Replying to: tidester (Oct 09, 2007 9:08 pm)

First, Subaru's tow great. 2004's are better than the newer ones IMHO as they softened the ride when they added a half inch of height in 06. I had to retro "Pinks" springs into my 07. I had 200 lbs on my tongue weight and my base model sagged less than an inch so try it. Do not use the OEM hitch go for a retrofitted Class II hitch like a hidden hitch.
 
You could beef up the suspension if you wanted but, for example, the load leveling struts (standard in Australia only available in auto LL Beans in U.S.) will run you around 800 bucks for parts alone in the U.S. At a dealer, count on another 3 to 400 for labor.
 
You will need a seven pin hook up for electric brakes but Subaru's already have a four pin built in (look in your spare tire well/see the rubber grommet in the bottom?) and installers say they are easy to convert to 7 pin.
 
Tongue weight is figured by looking at what the manufacturer says tongue weight is, and then adding the battery weight and the propane tank weight. So, generally, you are looking for around a 150 lb tongue weight to stay under the Subaru 200 lb rating. Don't worry about a few pounds over.
 
And Subaru North American tow ratings are low compared to other countries. Many are convinced it is fear of lawyers as to why. In Australia they are rated at 3200 lbs for example and around 240 lbs tongue weight (remember load leveling struts are standard down under except for the absolute 2.0 base model.
 
Forester's are still the highest rated (at 2400 lbs)relative to size/engine in the U.S. A manual transmission is preferable IMHO and with the turbo, you will have NO problems going anywhere. You don't need to add a tranny cooler with a manual either. But you will need to change out tranny fluids more often.
 
I tow an 1800 to 1900 lb pop up with electric brakes and between my two Foresters (I have an 07 Premium Package manual now) I have put close to 20K in trips over mountains hills and dales. I've seen TBs on many a Subaru.
#29 of 97
Re: Forester towing misc. [p0926] by ateixeira
Oct 10, 2007 (9:57 am)
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Replying to: p0926 (Oct 09, 2007 12:31 pm)

They're basically fancy struts, so a swap may not be hard, but they are PRICEY!
#30 of 97
Re: Towing [kavoom] by paisan
Oct 10, 2007 (8:10 pm)
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Replying to: kavoom (Oct 10, 2007 3:38 am)

You will need a seven pin hook up for electric brakes but Subaru's already have a four pin built in (look in your spare tire well/see the rubber grommet in the bottom?) and installers say they are easy to convert to 7 pin.
 
There is no such thing as a "conversion" from 4-pin to 7-pin, at least not easily. For a 7-pin you'd need to put in a brake controller and brake controller connections to the rear where the 7-pin connection goes. It's not plug-and-play so to speak.
 
Tongue weight is figured by looking at what the manufacturer says tongue weight is, and then adding the battery weight and the propane tank weight. So, generally, you are looking for around a 150 lb tongue weight to stay under the Subaru 200 lb rating. Don't worry about a few pounds over.
 
That's actually incorrect.
 
Tounge weight is actually calculated by putting a scale under the tounge at the hitch-height with a fully loaded trailer. You can use a bathroom scale but make sure to put a rod or something so that it's at the correct heigh of where it will be when hitched.
 
-mike

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