Last post on Sep 07, 2010 at 4:28 PM
You are in the Subaru Forester
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Forester, Towing, Wagon
#147 of 151 Re: Towing a pop-up [nancy52]
Sep 03, 2010 (12:19 pm)
You should be fine with either of the "pop-ups" that you have mentioned.
I believe 2000 lbs is the max tow weight on Forester.
Tongue weight of 200 lbs is max for Forester - you can check the weight by using a bathroom scale and resting the front end of pop-up tow on it.
Length should not be a problem as long as you keep the max speed weight rated for that particular pop-up. I would not go over 55 MPH and avoid sharp quick turns.
#148 of 151 Re: Towing a pop-up [nancy52]
Sep 03, 2010 (1:10 pm)
The Class-II hitch is "enough" to pull the trailer you want, but the Class III is much more versatile. If you are looking to have it installed for you, there are a variety of places that can do this work. Even if you are in a "small town," it can't be *that* small if it has a Subaru dealership!
The cost of a hitch should be about $140 delivered to you, with the wiring another $35-40. The total install takes about an hour for a class three (which requires slight modification to the holes in the frame rail to accommodate the larger bolts) hitch. I would think it should take 30 minutes or less for a class II.
I suspect you will spend at least $400 at the dealership for the Subaru kit (class-II) installed; anywhere else, the total cost should top out at about $300. If you do want a class-III and are concerned about finding a reputable installer, call your dealer and ask them if they will install a class III unit that you provide them.
Keep in mind that my recommendation is just another opinion. I base my recommendation on my experience with both types and "severe duty" applications of all types including towing and auto recovery. The car is capable of short-term severe-duty work, but a class-II hitch is not up to the task.
Some general points that may be worth pondering:
1. Classes I and II use a 1.25" adapter; Classes III, IV, and V use a 2" adapter.
2. Cargo trays, which mount directly to the receiver, are a very useful tool for carrying small amounts of dirty/awkwardly sized/overflow cargo outside the car. They come in 2" only (as far as I have found, anyway).
3. Class I/II balls are not compatible with Class III/IV because they use a smaller shank. The smaller the shank, the less shear strength.
4. You can get a 1.25" to 2" adapter for using 2" attachments, but total system strength remains limited by the 1.25" receiver.
I am a big fan of versatility (which is why I like Subaru!), so I favor the choices that allow me the greatest future flexibility. You can scroll through images of my Forester's hitch and various uses of it on my CarSpace page, if you're interested.
#149 of 151 Re: Towing a pop-up [jogousa]
Sep 03, 2010 (1:13 pm)
I would not go over 55 MPH and avoid sharp quick turns.
Good advice. I have seen people get themselves in trouble with pop-ups, especially when not on asphalt most likely because, although compact, they are heavy for their size and will try to resist shifting directions.
#150 of 151 Re: Towing a pop-up [jogousa]
Sep 07, 2010 (8:12 am)
Older Forester could tow 2000 lbs but newer ones are rated higher.
She's got room to spare.
I would make sure the wiring harness is compatible with the braked-trailer. Class II only comes with a 4-plug connector, and you may need the round 9-plug type, or an adaptor.
In fact, you may want to see if the trailer folks install hitches, then you know it'll match up.
#151 of 151 Re: Towing a pop-up [ateixeira]
Sep 07, 2010 (4:28 pm)
Thanks to all for the helpful messages.