Last post on Oct 27, 2012 at 12:08 AM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler 300M, Lights, Electrical, Sedan
#71 of 73 Re: Chrysler 300M electrical problems [martinesm]
Jun 08, 2012 (2:14 am)
Alot of these many , lighting /electrical problems can be attributed to the main battery cables. Reason being , is that the system is constantly being monitored , IE : you open the door and the interior lights come on , but they go off after a timer runs out. If the battery cables / terminals are defective where there is an intermittent on/off sequence within the cables themselves because of corrosion etc. the lights will be turned on or not work at all. All of the ground ring connectors on the driver's side of the inner fender must be free of rust (good connection). There is also a fuselink in the main battery cable that will cause alot of minor problems if it is brittle. Not to mention the cables ends that connect inside the Powertrain Control Module.
I replaced my cables on my 2002 300M Special last summer and 1 of the things that wasn't working , were the rear seat door courtesy lamps. On the Special , all doors have lights , not rear reflectors. At the same time , it is also important to make sure that you remove the ground cable on the passenger side fender before doing any fusebox or electrical work or testing , because the airbags can be deployed accidentally. On my Special , I have the SRS high quality leather seat airbags , plus the dash and steering wheel airbags to worry about setting off. It takes 2 minutes for the safety capacitor to discharge as well that is in place , just in case the battery becomes disconnected in an accident. The airbags will still deploy for up to 2 minutes from the capacitor's stored energy.
Sometimes , interior lights that continuously randomly come on , are as a result of a badly corroded door sensor or buttonswitch. It's not a good idea to assume that it is a fuse , if the light/s are working improperly. If they aren't working , the problem is more likely to involve the fuse as well. A good visual inspection of all of your engine compartment wiring should be the first step. If some wires are exposed to the elements or metal they can be the cause. Every wire should be covered or have an electrical sheath that can visibly tell you whether or not the wiring harness is , or isn't in good condition. If the harness is in poor condition , chances are these are the points at which the electrical system is intermittently responding to.
Even something as simple as the license plate light , or the trunk brakelight can cause shorting in the system. It's a good idea to check all lights , signals etc. prior to assuming you can begin pulling fuses out of the junction box near the steering wheel to determine what is wrong , when even a slightly damaged wire protector could be moving and touching metal while the car is being driven only.
#72 of 73 Re: heat and air display light [joeynice]
Oct 26, 2012 (8:07 pm)
I would like to say that i have had NO trouble out of my car i mean minor ware and tare but thats it you all act like its a really bad car and its not.!!!!!!!!!!!
#73 of 73 Re: heat and air display light [zandras]
Oct 27, 2012 (12:08 am)
Finally , someone has posted a more positive experience with cars that are not "run of the mill cheapies". For the most part , if you choose to ignore the obvious (visible) wiring or electrical problems with today's vehicles - you are asking for trouble in the future. It's very simple and easy to wrap some electrical tape around a wire that is exposed etc. , so that nothing can short circuit - but some people will drive their vehicles until smoke comes out of the hood , literally. At the same time , there are some people who claim the dealerships are "stealerships" , but their information can be used to determine what needs to be done , as opposed to any other garage where they suggest or do work that is not related , or useless. Alot of times a garage can do more damage than good , and there are still countless numbers of mechanics who pride themselves on being "toughguys" , to be able to do so. While you could do just as well for $0.50. Cheapest , is not always the best way to go. But if you are careless , you are sure to have trouble in the maintainence department where your vehicle is concerned.
IE : installing makeshift parts that don't fit / installing wiring that is not the correct size / improperly installing an aftermarket stereo system / trying to mess with sparkplugs for other engines / constantly boosting the battery to start the car , while you also repeatedly turn the starter motor / skipping seasonal oil and filter changes / never replacing the transmission fluids / trying new headlamp bulbs that may exceed the lense temperature range , and the wiring / leaving the window/s or roof open in a rain storm / storing the vehicle outside in winter with no cover and never brushing the snow off of the windshield area above the dash/wipers / never checking to see if electrical cooling fans are working to cool the engine compartment / never replacing the coolant reservoir vented cap / leaving the air conditioning system unuseable throughout the summer , while the system has a leak - which is why it isn't working or the compressor is not turning on or cycling / when a leak in a radiator hose develops , tape it over / when oil leaks occur , try silicone / etc. etc. All of these things contribute to a vehicle running downhill in the maintainence department , which will eventually lead to something major failing.