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Sedans Oldsmobile Intrigue Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling
107 messages, Last post on Oct 28, 2009 at 10:45 AM
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I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
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| I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw. | |
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Replying to: wolf13 (Mar 24, 2008 5:58 pm) |
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Replying to: dennis1957 (Jan 23, 2008 10:02 am)
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Replying to: bblamire (May 03, 2008 11:00 am) |
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Replying to: bblamire (May 03, 2008 11:00 am) The ignition switch can cause some weird problems with these vehicles not just hard starting. I'm having issues with the ignition switch on my 2000 Intrigue. I may try to clean the contacts if the weather holds up this weekend. Cleaning the switch has worked for a number of owners. |
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I've intently read the posts on starting problems. I've owned my Intrigue for 5 years now and it has intermittently failed to start. I should say, it fails to crank. All dash lights work properly and the fuel pump starts as the key goes to "ON". However as you continue to push the key to the "START" position absolutely nothing happens. I regularly clean the battery terminals and regularly spray WD40 into the ignition and the problem goes away sometimes for months. But it always seemed to return. I finally purchased a new AC-Delco ignition switch hoping to permanently cure the problem. It went over 2 months before failing once again. I've have used every suggestion listed here and other forums. Sometimes if I move the shifter it starts. Other times I open the windows to allow air flow to the interior as it seems to occur most often in hot weather. Most times I can pull the key out, turn it upside down a few times and eventually it cranks. But this car did not come with the security system so I can't believe the key itself is the issue. When I lived in Indy it typically did not occur all winter, then begin failing as soon as hot weather arrived. It has no error codes listed currently and I've never found a code that made any sense at all after it refused to crank over. I have had no other issues with the car after 100K+ miles, but this one is simply driving me crazy. My wife refuses to drive it after it happened to her on a shopping trip...lol. But I love the car and would like to put another 50K miles on it before swapping it out. I drive 40 miles to work and it still gets 28 MPG in comfort. Has anyone tried any of the previous remedies that actually cured the non-crank issue permanently? My local Chevy dealer continues to scratch his head and offers no resolution other than a new ignition switch and starter. I've eliminated the ignition switch and find it hard to believe the starter would be the issue since I've never had to get out and wrap the starter yet. Seems to me if I had a dead spot, it would stay dead until I somehow moved it off the dead spot as in smacking it with a ball pean hammer. But it always "eventually" cranks. What other GM models used this engine and the basic starter scheme as the Olds? Perhaps I should go to that model dealer who may have heard of this problem. Any, any discussion would be appreciated. THX Fade |
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Replying to: fade (Jun 07, 2008 12:47 pm) However, one cannot dismiss the physical connections at the switch. Loose, dirty overheated etc. The other possibilities are teh starter relay, the park neutral switch and the stater solenoid. Can you hear the solenoid clicking when the key is turned? The starter relay is grounded by the pcm and is energized by the key turning and the PN switch engaged in proper gear. The solenoid then transfers battery power to starter. Since it is so intermittent, unless you have a meter or lights connected at various points along this circuit, you will not be able to determine what is interrupting the power to the solenoid. Second to that, I would look carefully at the back of the ignition switch for overheated connectors. And or measure the resistance of the switch contacts. Should be close to 0 ohms or whatever the leads together are. More than 1 ohm and thats your problem. Also the resistance from the hot side of the switch to the cold side of the PN switch for resistance same criteria. The starter solenoid and the starter need a good ground and come from the mounting bolts. loosen and tighten them to reseat the ground connection. also check the ground connection from the bat to the engine. cheers
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Replying to: moonshadow (Jun 07, 2008 1:26 pm) I hear absolutely nothing with I hit "START". No clicking, no further fuel pump noise. I have noted the lights go off, however that seems to be a normal occurance even when the switch works. I replaced the battery recently and tore apart the cables for a good cleaning so that should be eliminated. But I did not check the grounds so I will have to go do that. THX. I'll report back. Fade
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Replying to: fade (Jun 07, 2008 1:53 pm) |
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